Toadstool not standing upright

[Preble]

Well I got a nice sized toadstool yesterday it was standing stright up at the lfs I put it in ky tank, and it has not stood up stright yet. Is seems to be very healthy and happy....just a little sideways. Is this just something they do and I just have to wait?
It's under 4 65w pc bulbs and in a medium flow.

I also got a zoa and its doing great.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

 

[gmate]

Did you properly drip acclimate this coral at tank temperature? Leathers, if not acclimated perfectly, are prone to shed upon changing parameters. You likely put the coral into a bit of shock. It'll get that yellow dusty covering on the base and not show full extension on the polyps for a few days. Then one day, as long as your parameters are good, it'll be upright and extending.

Leathers are very good 'indicator corals'. When a leather heads downhill, it means that impending doom could be there shortly if you don't take action. They are great monitors of nitrate and once it gets high they begin to melt and shed. Keep an eye on those guys, but they're beautiful - easy to frag - and fast growers.

 

[HurricaneSystem]

Preble,

I hate to tell you this, but from the looks of your rock on the background, your tank is brand new. When your cycle hits you are going to have some trouble. You might be at the beginning of it and your toadstool is showing the effects of ammonia.

 

[The Rio Reef]

how is your toadstool now?

 

[jwoyshnar]

Yeah definitely too early to be adding corals. Maybe try finding a temporary home for it til your tank matures.

 

[RichardinMa]

Keep an eye on your water quality and you should be fine. Leathers routinely go through periods of shutting down and "shedding", especially when they are moved to a new tank. I have cycled many, many tanks using corals as they put out far less ammonia than a nasty, rotting piece of shrimp, and have never lost one to it. Cycles, when done properly, take just a couple to a few weeks to complete. If you are still having water quality issues after that then you are doing something wrong. Add things slowly so your bacterial population can keep up and it will be fine.

If you try to put a time stamp on when a tank is ready then you really have no understanding of the biology at work or you would realize it just doesn't work that way. All of this "6 month this" or "12 month that" just doesn't work. It is impossible to say what any tank will be doing at any time and saying a 6/12 month old tank is safe can be just as incorrect as saying a 2 month old tank is unsafe.

 

[HurricaneSystem]

Keep an eye on your water quality and you should be fine. Leathers routinely go through periods of shutting down and "shedding", especially when they are moved to a new tank. I have cycled many, many tanks using corals as they put out far less ammonia than a nasty, rotting piece of shrimp, and have never lost one to it. Cycles, when done properly, take just a couple to a few weeks to complete. If you are still having water quality issues after that then you are doing something wrong. Add things slowly so your bacterial population can keep up and it will be fine.

If you try to put a time stamp on when a tank is ready then you really have no understanding of the biology at work or you would realize it just doesn't work that way. All of this "6 month this" or "12 month that" just doesn't work. It is impossible to say what any tank will be doing at any time and saying a 6/12 month old tank is safe can be just as incorrect as saying a 2 month old tank is unsafe.

You won't hear me disagree on how long it takes to cycle a tank. However, anyone with eyes that can see his live rock knows that tank isn't close to being cycled. Once the ammonia spike hits, he is in trouble with that livestock in his tank.

 

[luisgo]

The fact that the rock looks white does not mean it is not cycled. When I cycle a tank with dead rock that was cleaned with bleach I turn off the lights for a month. Once the tank is cycled then I turn on the lights.

That Toodstool is just in a process to adapt to the tank. Wait a couple of weeks and it should be fine if the paremeters and flow are correct.

 

[RichardinMa]

You won't hear me disagree on how long it takes to cycle a tank. However, anyone with eyes that can see his live rock knows that tank isn't close to being cycled. Once the ammonia spike hits, he is in trouble with that livestock in his tank.

Where is this ammonia spike coming from? You speak like it is going to sneak up from some unexpected source at some unexpected time. The amount of ammonia present in the tank at any given time is directly related to what is put into the tank and on what you are adding. If it is done properly there will be no massive ammonia "hit".

Here is a photo of a tank I started last November (the 21st). It is a 47 Bow with a Fluval 404 for a filter:

Here is the same tank 8 weeks later. The rock was all dry rock and dry sand was used. My ammonia "spike" was .5 ppm and lasted all of about 5 days.

A cycle is not necessarily this nasty, hard-to-survive event in the tank if it is done smartly.

 

[HurricaneSystem]

Lol is all I am going to say about those pics. This is the system that you are having so much trouble out of with corals dying, etc? Your other posts are all about them. So yea, if you can't sustain the livestock, then there's that sneaky parameter spike.....

 

[RichardinMa]

No, Hurricane, this is not "the system" that I had had problems with corals bleaching in. The SPS issue tank is a different 180 gal sysytem and those issues were due to a combination of lighting problems and over-striping the water with GAC and carbon. Waste levels were never an issue, except, actually, for being too low. Had you taken the time to read through my posts completely you would have seen this. You also would have seen that all water parameters were testing out normally. Did you really think that I would not have thought to test for something as basic as ammonia? Different water issues usually show up as specific symptoms and I suggest you learn these before making unsupported accusations about other people's tanks. I am quite sucessful at "keeping livestock" and currently have 5 different systems running, from which I do quite a bit of propagation. So I am sorry, but you will have to try to find another reason that you think this tank supposedly has issues.

This tank is doing very, very well and I often harvest frags from my Seriatopora, Euphyllia and softies. With the exception of the Montipora eating nudis that I was battling things have been very good. In fact, I had one pink-polyp green monti that was completely bleached out from that aforementioned system that was placed in here to see if it would do better (you can see it in the center of the photo). I am very happy to report that over the last three months all of the green color has come back and it has resumed growth. The acan in here has added a few new corallites and the Hawkins echinata that I added just a month ago is encrusting quite well. I also have a 6" diameter Hollywood Stunner up in the corner that was added since the photo was taken that has grown an inch out in every direction over the pas 4-5 weeks. I will soon need to frag that back as it is starting to shade out the corals below it.

I am not sure why you are finding it so hard to believe that tanks must take eons to evolve into somthing that can sustain life. The chemistry of a cycle is quite rudimentary and easily controlled. I am not new to this ball game as I have been doing tanks since the late 80's and have learned a thing or two. Ammonia is one of the easiest compounds to test for and control, not this mysterious plague that you continually suggest is just waiting out there to strike without warning or detection. Continue to make up reasons why you feel this is not possible but if you choose to scour my past posts to make an argument then please be sure to at least use them accurately.

To get back the the original point of this thread, leathers commonly "pout" whenever anything changes around them. I will not make any assumptions about a tank's water chemistry just from a single photo. If water tests show good water quality then it is likely that the leather will expand once it has fully adjusted.

 

[ssavov]

Where is this ammonia spike coming from? You speak like it is going to sneak up from some unexpected source at some unexpected time. The amount of ammonia present in the tank at any given time is directly related to what is put into the tank and on what you are adding. If it is done properly there will be no massive ammonia "hit".

Here is a photo of a tank I started last November (the 21st). It is a 47 Bow with a Fluval 404 for a filter:

Here is the same tank 8 weeks later. The rock was all dry rock and dry sand was used. My ammonia "spike" was .5 ppm and lasted all of about 5 days.

A cycle is not necessarily this nasty, hard-to-survive event in the tank if it is done smartly.

Do you have a tread about this setup? It seems very interesting!

 

[jwoyshnar]

Where is this ammonia spike coming from? You speak like it is going to sneak up from some unexpected source at some unexpected time. The amount of ammonia present in the tank at any given time is directly related to what is put into the tank and on what you are adding. If it is done properly there will be no massive ammonia "hit".

Here is a photo of a tank I started last November (the 21st). It is a 47 Bow with a Fluval 404 for a filter:

Here is the same tank 8 weeks later. The rock was all dry rock and dry sand was used. My ammonia "spike" was .5 ppm and lasted all of about 5 days.

A cycle is not necessarily this nasty, hard-to-survive event in the tank if it is done smartly.

I agree with your comment totally, especially the 5 day comment. I've been doing this along time and only seen a nasty ammonia spike one time and that was caused by using chemi clean and the dying off of cyano.

 

[myreeflife]

Those need a strong lighting. I had few of them and placing under metal halide