Too Much Circulation

bladeruner143

Premium Member
Is there a such thing as too much circulation?! I'm setting up a 55G FOWLR that will eventually turn into a reef and I was going to buy some Hydor Koralia Pwerheads. I was thinking about getting 2 Koralia 3's which would give a total of 1700GPH, which is about 30x turnover. Is this too much?
 
It depends on how the "turnover" is done. If the turnover was out of a single small nozzle (think power washer) - then yes, you have way too high of a turn over. However, if your turnover is in a gentle stream throughout the tank, it's probably not too much turn over. I bet you the "turn over" in the ocean is much higher than what we provide. The difference is the turn over in the ocean is a gentle distributed "turn over" instead of one coming from a single point. :D

Minh
 
Is it too much? For what be my first question? So you have your perfect reef in your head, what does it look like? Is it going to have a little of everything or just Softies or LPS, maybe some anenome or all SPS?

The term "turnover" is a tool that is used to describe ones flow, better yet brag, about it......speaking of which, I added some more so mine is a little more than the 70x shown.....:p......its simmilar to the "watts per gallon" rule used in lighting guidlines. So, don't get caught up to much into it as a "rule" and is more about quality than quanity. ie: laminar flow vs random flow. The subject in itself is something we get caught up in like chasing the "perfect" bulb that will give perfect color and intantanous growth.

Why does what you want to keep matter?
In the SPS world for example, there is never too much flow......some tanks have so much the sand blows around and clouds the water, hence why Barebottom tanks are so popular with that crowd.
Flow this high can rip polyps off of LPS and bend softies like trees in a windstorm. Both of these reasons are why I have a Barebottom, SPS only tank.

Quality of the flow and the randomness is important as well, you can play with the angles of the powerheads to achieve the best pattern for your corals as flow is how corals eat and breathe.

The short answer, no......in fact I would think it would be about perfect for most tanks and may even suggest getting multiple smaller models to increase randomness and eliminate deadspots and different flow combinations as needed.

I would like to play with a gyre system using a controller to obtain the back and forth surges in the ocean.

Research your livestock you want to keep, and do your best to simulate that enviroment in your tank.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10844498#post10844498 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dots
better yet brag, about it......speaking of which, I added some more so mine is a little more than the 70x shown....

OH stop lying...




:lol2:

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10844498#post10844498 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dots

Quality of the flow and the randomness is important as well, you can play with the angles of the powerheads to achieve the best pattern for your corals as flow is how corals eat and breathe.

The short answer, no......in fact I would think it would be about perfect for most tanks and may even suggest getting multiple smaller models to increase randomness and eliminate deadspots and different flow combinations as needed.

Good advice :thumbsup:


-Justin
 
Yep.....added the ol' Mag 7 for the return, tweaked the carb, added a high rise tunnel ram, retarded the cam, added some 411's out back, and tubbed that bad muther. I figure with the Hurst T-handle shifter and the big foot gas pedal......I figure im at, ohhh.......73-74X........she moves I tell ya......she moves......
 
I'd say you should be fine. I have (2) Koralia #3s in my 60g and the flow is just right. My tank dimensions are (48Lx15Wx18H).
 
Thanks for all of the replies guys. My next question is how should I position them? I'm not sure if they should be angled downward and towards the center. I'm pretty sure they should be going the same way. My tank is a stand 55G and I am running a Fluval 404 Canister on it. The output of the Fluval is pretty high up in my tank and I have it in the left hand corner aimed towards the middle. What I was thinking was adding the Koralia's in the corners as well but lower and aimed slightly upward. Do you guys see this as a problem? How would you guys arrange it?
 
Oh yeah, Dots, I'm not sure what I will get yet. It's depends on how much money I can save for lighting. I think I need about 7 watts per gallon for LPS and maybe 5 for SPS right?
 
The watts per gallon theory does not take into consideration intensity or quality of light, and is a generalized guidline.

With regards to lighting, I upgraded mine three times before I got what I needed. With lighting, you can always decrease the photoperiod or increase the distrance from the tank if they are too bright. For an entry level, low hassle all around lighting I would suggest T5 for useability, energy consumption, and low heat emissions. Fit as many as you can under your hood, being a 55g you will be limited as is for space there.

My personal preference is Metal Halide and opinions vary. Do some research on the pros and cons of both to decide on which you prefer.

In short, buy as much as you can afford and fit over your tank.

Trial and error with the direction of the Powerheads is the best way to find what works best. Every tank is different and considerations with regards to rock placement and coral specie and placement are the determining factors.

The goal is to elininate the dead spots where detirus accumulates so it stays susspended in the water until the filter or skimmer picks it up, or where it does is accessible by your vacuum when doing WCs.
 
I am looking into T5's but I don't really know how to "assemble" them. I've seen phrases like HO or VHO but it seems like you have to know what you'ree doing in order to build these
 
There are some ready to go kits and some are "retrofit" kits. Retrofit kits are when you buy all the parts like a model airplane and put it together. The others are out of the box ready to go.

Yes, the retrofits have a bit of a learning curve if your not familliar with electical wiring or very handy, but there are some very knowlegeable people here that could step you through it. All in all though, it isn't rocket science and anyone can acomplish it with a little patience. If that is not you cup of tea what so ever, the kits may be your best option, but given you have a 55g, which is not very wide, I doubt you will find one that would go inside an enclosed canopy and if going that route may have to eliminate a hood and just leave the top open with the lights, which has the added benifit of cooling.

HO and VHO are other types, older types, of lighting that I would not recommend for a reef tank. They are not as powerful of a bulb and do not provide the light energy needed.

T5's are the newer type of bulb that oversimlified is a streched out power compact. Combined with the reflector technology, are far more powerful than standard flourecents.

Go to the links below and read about the different types of lighting.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-08/dw/index.php
(I just scanned the one above, I just noticed due to the age of the article, T5s are not mentioned. They would go between the Powercompact (PC) and Metal Halide (MH) section. That information should be substituited from other souces to there to help you undersand the differences.)

http://www.aquarium-lighting-guide.com/

If you go to the "lighting" section of Marine Depot, it has a little information and has broken the lighting types into different sections to help you distinguish them apart.

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumPage~PageAlias~lighting_fluorescent__subindex.html
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10859118#post10859118 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dots
HO and VHO are other types, older types, of lighting that I would not recommend for a reef tank. They are not as powerful of a bulb and do not provide the light energy needed.

Not necessarily. ReefGeek describes their T5 retrokits as HO (high output) and VHO (very high output). They consider the T5 54w lamps run on 430 Icecaps as High Output and the overdriven T5s on 660 Icecaps as Very High Output kits.

What he does mean, though, is Power Compacts, which are usually referred to as VHOs, are considered an older technology.


I'll be wiring my T5s in 2 to 3 weeks. If you get a T5 retro you can come over and wire yours as I wire mine. I have no experience wiring T5s, but I usually find that sort of thing easy to do. We can figure it out together. That way, you can plug yours in first and if your head smokes...I'll know I wired mine wrong. :rollface:
 
Basics first, then specifics.........a lot of numbers and names, subdivisions and classifications just confuse people when starting off. I oversimplify things first then get specific. Its easier to bring people up to speed that way.

Baby steps.........this is the same reason I have not brought up actinic, DE, SE, PAR, Kelvin, Ballast types, Square pin, Straight pin, wattages, etc.......

But yes, you are correct.......but that is confusing in which it eludes that VHOs are more powerful that T5's. (Very High being more than High) and usually referred as T5HO's to eliminate this.



So unless one is wanting only to keep softies or a FOWLR tank, I would ignore everything else and ONLY use VHO for Actinic supplementation, and only recommend T5 or MH to ensure your greatest success.

Taken from aquarium-lighting-guide.com:

"You have many options when choosing fluorescent aquarium lighting. Fluorescents come in numerous Kelvin ratings and wattages. There are three main types of fluorescent aquarium lighting: Normal Output (NO), Very High Output (VHO), and T5. Very rarely will you see a High Output (HO) bulb commercially available (except for T-5's).

Fluorescent bulbs for aquarium use are usually labeled as T12, T8, or T5. This denotes the diameter of the bulb and end caps.

T12 = 1.5" diameter
T8 = 1" diameter
T5 = 5/8" or .625" diameter

Normal Output (NO) -
Normal Output bulbs are standard wattage bulbs that usually come with many stock aquarium hoods. Normal Output bulbs come in varying sizes, including but not limited to, 18", 24", 36", 48", and 72". Refer to the chart below for corresponding wattages.

Very High Output (VHO) -
Very High Output bulbs allow you to fit fewer bulbs over your tank and provide considerably more lumens as compared to NO bulbs. All VHO bulbs are T12's, or 1.5" in diameter. VHO's, like all linear fluorescents, distribute the light evenly across the water surface, unlike Metal Halides which is a single point of light. Another advantage to using VHO lighting is that they generate less heat as compared to Metal Halides. VHO bulbs generally will need to be replaced about every six months, or as according to the manufacturer's recommendation. VHO bulbs require a 1500ma VHO ballast to operate.

Compact fluorescents (PC)-
Sometimes called power compacts, are brighter and more energy efficient than normal output fluorescent bulbs. Compact fluorescents are single ended, unlike traditional fluorescent bulbs which are double ended.

The basic components involved in assembling a compact fluorescent lighting systems are:

Compact Fluorescent bulb
Ballast
Lamp sockets and brackets
Reflector

Base Types - The three most common base types used for compact fluorescents are:
GX23 - 2 pin configuration
2G11 - 4 pin straight configuration
GY10Q - 4 pin square configuration, often referred to as Panasonic or Japanese style
Shapes - Compact fluorescents are available in multiple shapes, twin, quad, triple, and square to name a few. The most common bulb shape used in aquarium lighting is the twin followed by the quad.


T5 -
When purchasing T5's ensure that you are getting High Output T5's (T5HO). All T5 bulbs must be run on an electronic ballast. T5's have a higher lumen output than a VHO, generate less heat, and are more energy efficient. It has also been reported that T5's last considerably longer, between 2-3 years, with less degrade in lumen output. At only 5/8" in diameter, more bulbs can fit under your tank's canopy."


But in the end, to each his own.
 
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That is a great source of information. I've bookmarked that link for future reference. I love reading these types of details.

The reason I pointed it out about HO and VHO is because as a Newb I'm always getting confused when someone refers to a lamp or retro as just VHO...I'm just not positive what they are referring to. I figured he is probably experiencing the same confusion.

Thanks again for all the info, Dots. I thrive on this stuff.
 
Geez its been a long day i typed something and as soon as i hit send i realized i made a mistake. Dots post pretty much sums it up so ill just shut up and go have a beer.
 
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