Transition from copper treatment to standard Qt

[LouisianaReefer]

I am trying to make sure that I have all my bases cover in this process.

I have 2 fish, a flame fin tang and a cardinal fish, in a 15 gallon plastic tub that I am using for copper treatment using Cupramine. The tub only has about 10.5 gallons of water. My Plan is to transition this tub from copper treatment to a standard Qt tank to keep my 75 gallon display tank fallow for another 4 or 5 weeks to be sure it is ich free. Here is my plan:

1) do a 50% water change
2) take out heater and powerhead to soak in vinegar and then rinse well and return to the Qt tub
3) run carbon in the tub to take out remaining copper
4) test for copper until it tests at zero
5) add "seasoned" live rock
6) add small skimmer

This is my first time having to do this or even treat for any diseases for my fish. I want make sure I am not missing anything. Also, with this little bioload, how often and how much of a water change would you all recommend? I always feed pellets slowly, never giving more than they can eat.

 

[scuzy]

Use coprisorb and polyfilter

 

[LouisianaReefer]

Use coprisorb and polyfilter

I thought of getting polyfilters. That product is outstanding. Does anyone think that I have to be concerned about the tub cycling? Seachem tech support said that their product does not totally do away with biological filtration; however, I have heard that other copper products kill all good bacteria in a tank.

 

[HumbleFish]

"Does not totally do away with biological filtration" was the exact right thing to say. Copper does kill some nitrifying bacteria, but usually not enough to impact biological filtration. As for your plan, the only thing I would change is not adding any LR. Unless you never plan on using it again with corals/inverts, or don't mind going thru a very extensive cleaning process. I don't care how undetectable your copper level becomes. Down the road you forget where this rock has been, corals/inverts are dying left & right, and you can't figure out why. IMO; it's just not worth the hassle/risk. There are much better solutions for providing biological filtration in QT.

 

[LouisianaReefer]

"Does not totally do away with biological filtration" was the exact right thing to say. Copper does kill some nitrifying bacteria, but usually not enough to impact biological filtration. As for your plan, the only thing I would change is not adding any LR. Unless you never plan on using it again with corals/inverts, or don't mind going thru a very extensive cleaning process. I don't care how undetectable your copper level becomes. Down the road you forget where this rock has been, corals/inverts are dying left & right, and you can't figure out why. IMO; it's just not worth the hassle/risk. There are much better solutions for providing biological filtration in QT.

What would be the better solution for biological filtration for fish only in this Qt tank?

 

[sleepydoc]

+1 to the above comments. I have never had an issue with Cupramine affecting biological filtration.

A vinegar soak is unnecessary for the heater/power head. Simply rinse them well, unless you're trying to sanitize them.

Copper is toxic to inverts at levels below detection in most test kits, so a level of 0 may or may not be useful information. With only 15 gallons, you can do a complete water change easily enough. That will get rid of the copper more effectively that any chemical absorbent.

If this is a quarantine tank, why are you worried about adding live rock & skimmer? Those generally aren't necessary. I simply use a HOB filter with a sponge that's been colonized for biological filtration.

Also, I'd consider getting a 10 or 20 gallon tank for a QT rather than a plastic tub. The tub works just fine for holding the fish, but an important part of quarantining is observing the fish, and it's difficult to do that in a plastic tub.

 

[HumbleFish]

What would be the better solution for biological filtration for fish only in this Qt tank?

First off, I need to give props to MrTuskfish for this useful bit of advice...

Get yourself an Aquaclear HOB powerfilter. They come in 5 different sizes, but for your size QT an AC 20 or 30 would probably work best. You want the Aquaclear brand because they come with these very porous foam/sponge inserts. You stick that insert down in the DT sump or behind the rocks if you don't have a sump, and 1 month later you'll have a "seeded" sponge just loaded with nitrifying bacteria that you can then use in QT. Just place the sponge back in the powerfilter and turn it on. I always keep 2 or 3 going down in my sump so I'm ready to QT whenever. Some folks use "bacteria in a bottle" products like Biospira to instantly seed the sponge, but I'm too cheap for that. I'll wait the month.

I have never (not once) had any ammonia issues in QT since employing this method. And I have QT'd a buttload of fish all at once. The sponge also doesn't absorb copper (unlike LR), so that's another upside. The sponges are also very inexpensive when you need to buy more.

 

[LouisianaReefer]

Thanks for the awesome advice! I already have a 75 display with 30 gallon sump in the living room. I also have a 10 gallon tank in the kid's bedroom. My wife would freak out if I said that I am going to spend money on another tank! The tub is doing fine. The fish are well with the cupramine. I tried a cheaper copper treatment called Coppersafe at first because I did not know any better and almost killed one of the fish. Things are much better now. After putting in a HOB filter, I could increase the water level to about 13 gallons. After such point how often and how much for water changes do you all recommend?

 

[HumbleFish]

After putting in a HOB filter, I could increase the water level to about 13 gallons. After such point how often and how much for water changes do you all recommend?

If the sponge is "seeded" (as outlined above), you'll only need to do WCs to remove uneaten fish food, poop that settles to the bottom. And you don't have to be in a rush to do it, as the seeded sponge is handling any ammonia those may produce. It's just having crap laying on the bottom is.... unsightly, and may otherwise affect water conditions.

If the sponge is unseeded; you are looking at a 25% WC every 3 or 4 days, dependent upon bioload.

One of these will help you keep tabs on the ammonia: http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/AmmoniaAlert.html

 

[sleepydoc]

If you watch for petco's dollar per gallon sale a 10 or 20 gallon QT/HT won't set you back much, but I can understand your hesitation.