Treating Ich/Fungi

casshoward

New member
Hey all,

Yes, I'm still alive!

Background: I returned from a four day trip to find lots of "nasty stuff" attached to my Powder Blue Tang (looks like short slender white fuzz on it's body and fins) and three white spots on my female clown (actually, these large spots have been there for a while). The tang has had "stuff" on him/her before but with a beefed up veggie diet and water changes, they have always appeared to resolve. (Both fish continue to feed like aggressively and act fine.)

Question: How should I treat whatever this is? (I know, you need a photo...I'll try to get one.) I have seen ads for in-tank, coral and invert "safe" stuff.....does it work? Do you think it would be more stressing to move the two fish to a QT to treat with a copper based med?

Since getting into this hobby in 2005, this is my first bought with fish disease! Help!

I guess its time to buy a UV sterilizer! Any suggestions?

Cass :(
 
Someone missed the last meeting where the topic was treatment of disease.

If it is ich, I feel your pain. The "cure" that everyone seems to agree on is moving all your fish to a QT and treating them with hyposalinity and/or copper. Soak food in garlic and raising the temp speeds up the life cycle of the parasite also. While leaving your tank fallow for 6wks. I am going on week 2 of that part.
 
How you treat it is determined by what it is.

Before you do anything you need to post pictures of it for anyone to have a reasonable attempt at a diagnosis.

You may also want to search Reef Keeping Online issues if unable to get good pictures posted. Look for articles by Steven Pro.

The effectiveness of many of the so called reef safe cures are entirely anecdotal and garlic falls into that group.

Lymphocystis is something that can be mistaken for ich depending on the size and shape of the growth. It's viral, contagious ,and almost never fatal.

Fungal infections in marine fishes are quite uncommon.
 
came home to see ick on my regal tang and exquiste fariy wrasse. So if I understand right all the fish need to be QT for 6 weeks and treated. The corals are ok to stay in the tank? Is this correct.
I only have five fish but the regal is large. Does the QT tank size matter?
 
Is ich in the hobby cyclical? I really had not heard many people having it but in the last month or so 3 people in the club seem to have gotten it. Plus I have seen several post about it on the msg boards.
 
Long awaited Pics

Long awaited Pics

The concentration of the infestation has varied over the past few days (heavier in the early AM) and appears to lessen over the course of the day. I have seen him hanging out with my cleaner shrimp!

What do you think?

Dave: If it is Ich, which is your preferred treatment option?
 
Pics

Pics

Powder Blue Tang disease...

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Out of curiosity... do you have a uv filter? Also are you feeding garlic?


From my limited experience, I'd definitely do both of those.

Unless you have a perfectly setup qt tank, want to risk even more stress by moving the fish, and have the time it takes to maintain the qt for 6+weeks... I would highly suggest a uv filter and feeding garlic soaked everything *.*.

-Ryan
 
Re: Long awaited Pics

Re: Long awaited Pics

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11316626#post11316626 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by casshoward
The concentration of the infestation has varied over the past few days (heavier in the early AM) and appears to lessen over the course of the day. I have seen him hanging out with my cleaner shrimp!

What do you think?

Dave: If it is Ich, which is your preferred treatment option?


Can you catch the fish?

If so you can bring it to me and I'll treat it. I'd catch the Kole as well and have it treated at the same time. I know you have other fish but the Kole looks like it might have a mild infestation as well.

I would invest in a quality UV. I like UV and believe in its benefits (when used properly) but I tend to use a much larger unit and flow it at a slower rating. Keep in mind that a UV will add heat to the system. I would also feed only food laced with Metronidazole. You may add garlic to it as well if it makes you feel better. I say that because, presently, everything I've seen said/written about the uses of garlic on "Ich" is anecdotal.
 
Jason: Thanks for for the motivation! Stop by so I can give you a flu shot!.....in the eye! (;) just kidding....maybe)

Ryan: I have been adding 5ml of garlic to each batch of prepared food mixes for the tank (Fish soup = frozen SFB mixes, and flake mix of cyclopeez, spirulina, formula 1-2-3). Santa was going to bring me an UV filter for Christmas (once I decided which one). I'm certain after he sees these pics, he'll send it sooner....as soon as I decided which one! According to Jason, I'd better hurry up!
 
Dave is Santa's Helper!

Dave is Santa's Helper!

Thanks Dave. I'll give you a call. I have to work the next two nights unfortunately.
 
Re: Dave is Santa's Helper!

Re: Dave is Santa's Helper!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11319806#post11319806 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by casshoward
Thanks Dave. I'll give you a call. I have to work the next two nights unfortunately.


Keep in mind that the infected fish are hosting sites and will allow the problem to multiply in a fashion that can allow the presently uninfected fish to become overwhelmed. Removing, and treating separately, the heavily infected fish will reduce the pathogen load in the aquarium and make the job of dealing with those left much easier. Because the means you have at your disposal for use in a reef aquariums are nowhere near as effective as the treatment options available when inverts are not present.
 
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My uv filter is in my sump and recycles water in the sump 24x7. Right now, the pump is nearly clogged, but when clean I flow mine at whatever is recommended. But I'm sure some goes in twice by design before it leaves the sump.

Casshoward: you really need to get that UV filter asap! Like Dave does, you need to get one that is over rated for your tank. I'd bet if you had one going right now, most of the ich would be off your fish within 3-4 days.

When you get one and get it going, please report your daily progress.
 
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