Treating Ich?

[rishu_pepper]

I've had a hippo tang 3" for 4-5 months and I have seen white dots on his body 3 times, each time it goes away after a day or two so I wasn't too worried after, but judging by what I've read/seen, I believe he has ich. Lately he is living (with a bunch of other fish) in a RSM130 (8 footer tank upgrade is arriving next week, sorry tang police :idea. I observe that his breathing is rather rapid most of the time (perhaps due to the stress of living in this temporary small home?). He eats extremely well, taking NLS pellets, mysis, nori, anything really, and he has a nice well-filled in body.

Should I pull him out and treat him in QT or pull everyone out to treat? Or ride it out and let them build immunity? The other fishes have not shown any signs of sickness (yellow tang, two clowns, two chromis, melanurus, lyretail).

I will have more fish incoming when the big tank comes. I am afraid the ich may pass on to new fish and decimate them/everyone. What do you recommend?

 

[snorvich]

In order to eliminate ich, all fish must be treated (TTM, CP, or copper) before they move to the new tank. If other items are being move to the new tank, they must be in an environment without fish for 72 days.

 

[Mishri]

Well, if it is ich they could all be infected and not showing physical signs (it could be in their gills) Some of them might be immune already.

So... if you want to eradicate... depends on what you have in the RSM130... is that a 35 gallon tank or a 130 gallon?

well if you have rocks in that tank you'll need to let that tank go fallow... if no live rock you could treat cupermine.

What mots people like to do with ich is Tank transfer method. So you'll want to do a TTM then move them to an ich free environment - not back into the RSM130 - unless you drain it and let it get completely dry and don't re-use any rocks/substrate in it (bleach is optional, but a lot of people do it-ich can't survive if it's completely dry). So either the 8 footer or another tank would probably be your best option.

edit: yeah what snorvich said...

 

[rishu_pepper]

The RSM is a 35g.

I have some LR and corals in there too. I can let the rocks stay. Can the corals move into the new tank or do they have to stay within the fallow period too?

I believe I will do TTM to treat all the fish, then they can go straight into the new DT afterwards. Will that be okay?

 

[Mishri]

yep, but don't move the corals over for 72 days.. (If you want to be safe, and with an 8 foot tank I'm sure you want to follow safety over rushing things - you can get by with 6-8 weeks, that takes care of 99.8% of ich- 72 days is 100%)

So yep, do TTM then into the new DT as long as you don't use anything (rocks, corals, sand) nothing that could possibly be infected with ich. My 75 gallon used all dry rock and sand that was fallow for 5 years-so it's safe. my 40 gallon I'm leaving fallow for 72 days because I got rock from the ocean (Tampa bay saltwater).

 

[rishu_pepper]

How about this:

Place all live rocks and corals (infected or otherwise) into the new tank, leave it fallow for 72 days. During the 72 days, I can treat the fishes either with TTM (I have the RSM130 and a 30g) or copper. They can stay in after healing in either of the tanks and will go in after the 72 days.

 

[Mishri]

sure.. You'll just need some new filtration without the rocks to handle the ammonia.

 

[rishu_pepper]

sure.. You'll just need some new filtration without the rocks to handle the ammonia.

What do you recommend for the QT to do this? Frequent WC? HOB filter like an AquaClear?

 

[Deinonych]

I use ceramic media (like Seachem Matrix) in a HOB filter and seed with Bio-spira. Have never had an ammonia problem with this method.

 

[rishu_pepper]

I use ceramic media (like Seachem Matrix) in a HOB filter and seed with Bio-spira. Have never had an ammonia problem with this method.

Thank you. I will look up the items.

How should my WC schedule be like? And at what percentage?

 

[rishu_pepper]

I have another question: is it possible to do TTM for the live rocks and corals (in separate buckets of course) to get rid of the ich that may possible be on there?

 

[julie180]

I have another question: is it possible to do TTM for the live rocks and corals (in separate buckets of course) to get rid of the ich that may possible be on there?

No, will not work. TTM breaks the life cycle of ich by taking the fish away from the parasites that have fallen off the fish and become cysts. The cysts can be viable for up to 72 days in the rock and substrate.

 

[rishu_pepper]

Ah, thank you for the clarification.