Updating Tank Stand

[BlueWorldJeff]

I'm looking to get my 36" W x 17"D x 12" H acrylic tank back up and running. I sold my old sump, so I bought a eshopps sump that fits in the stand I have.

The stand is a Petco special I believe, put together with cam locks. The door on the front is very small, not allowing much room to access all the chambers of the sump.

My idea was to use the two front panels that are on either side of the door as extra doors. I just removed the cam locks and put hinges on them. Now the whole front opens and I can access everything.


The problem is that without the front supports, the whole stand is super flimsy. It has a ton of horizontal flex. I added 2"x2" supports to all four corners, for extra support of the tank as well as to limit flex. They are tied to the top and bottom of the stand with screws and one screw in the side support.



I feel with a full tank of water on the stand, I need more bracing for the stand. There is one vertical support in the back, but I dont think its enough. Should I run a horizontal brace across the middle of the back of the tank to limit flexing?

 

[kharmaguru]

Back is good IMO. If you can tolerate a center support in the front that would be your better bet. Preferably something wider like the back one to minimize side to side motion. Also adding construction adhesive between any and all connections that you can will surprise you how rigid the structure will become. My current DIY stand actually has no screws in it at all - just construction adhesive...

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

The construction adhesive is a good idea. It must make it super sturdy if you dont have to use screws at all. I might also add a horizontal brace to the back just so I can leave the whole front open.

I might be able to add some vertical posts between the doors, but I'm not sure I'd be able to make them wide enough to support horizontal flex

 

[kharmaguru]

You could just make the whole back solid and drill holes for your plumbing. That should pretty much solve your lateral movement. I still would run a header across the front - like a 2x4 or even the same type of MDF on it's edge - since that thin MDF likes to sag over time.

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

You could just make the whole back solid and drill holes for your plumbing. That should pretty much solve your lateral movement. I still would run a header across the front - like a 2x4 or even the same type of MDF on it's edge - since that thin MDF likes to sag over time.

Making the whole back solid is a good idea. I might need to cut more holes than just for plumbing, so I won't run into air circulation issues, right?

 

[kharmaguru]

Making the whole back solid is a good idea. I might need to cut more holes than just for plumbing, so I won't run into air circulation issues, right?

I doubt the stand will be airtight enough to go moldy but to be honest I've never given it a thought. If air holes make you feel better then drill air holes.

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

I measured the back and its 33.5" W x 27" H. Is plywood the best to use? The stand thickness is 5/8". I'd have to get a 4'x8' sheet just to get the 33.5" unless I get a 2'x4' sheet and run it full length horizontal with a gap at the top or bottom.

 

[kharmaguru]

I measured the back and its 33.5" W x 27" H. Is plywood the best to use? The stand thickness is 5/8". I'd have to get a 4'x8' sheet just to get the 33.5" unless I get a 2'x4' sheet and run it full length horizontal with a gap at the top or bottom.

Plywood is extremely strong. The 3 inch gap would be inconsequential so the handy panel would be fine.

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Plywood is extremely strong. The 3 inch gap would be inconsequential so the handy panel would be fine.

That's what I was thinking too. And it would be stronger if the gap was at the bottom or top or split the difference?

 

[kharmaguru]

That's what I was thinking too. And it would be stronger if the gap was at the bottom or top or split the difference?

Tying it to either the top or bottom (3 points) will be stronger than centered (2 points). however I don't think it matters much especially if you use the adhesive too. Are you leaving the existing wood and just going over it, or total reno? If you are removing the existing center support put the plywood at the top.