using a Y tube on a closed loop??

[saltyESQ]

atm, my closed loop is set up with a 1.5inch return pipe T'ed where there is a pipe on the top of the tank and the bottom of the tank.

here is a pic

but what if I took out the T and just put a Y tube after the dart and ran 2 sepearate lines of 1.5 inch each?

and does anyone know if anyone makes a 1.5inch Y?
would this effect the dart?
also would it create any extra sound?

 

[Bebo77]

what are you doing mike? that pluming in the from of the tank the return right?

your closed loop should go to the top where all those holes are... use and oceans motion 4 way...

 

[saltyESQ]

all the PVC in the tank is the return. I am plumbing it backwards, first doing all the stuff in the tank and working my way out of the tank to the dart.
the Oceansmotions is too expensive atm. I will just put a lot of ball joints so I can add it later.

as for the top return, what if I put a piece of PVC running the lenght of the tank and then at each hole in the top, put a T going to the tank?

Then I would use a Y piece after the dart and one side would go to the top and the other would run to front bottom of the tank.

 

[Bebo77]

no OM... i would run the return from the dart to the top of the tank and put a T's on each holes followed by loclines. the bottom of the tank is covered by your return...

 

[saltyESQ]

just wasted a lot of time and PVC. then since I will be using a mag 12 for my return I need to buy all new PVC at 3/4 inch and re run the interior.

It also means I can begin putting in water and dump in the sand.

since I can work on the closed loop with water in the tank.

 

[Bebo77]

what size pipe is that in the pic?

 

[saltyESQ]

1.5 inch

 

[ReefMeister2]

The last client I worked for, I did the exact same thing you are doing: Installing a Sequence Dart for closed loop

1) I installed a 1-1/2" ABS 3-way split (available at any HD or Lowes) to the output of the dart. I used about a foot of 1-1/2" Spa Flex in-between the 3-way and the Dart, so a) it would provide a "buffer" of sorts between the 3-way manifold and the pump, and b) so I could glue a threaded fitting onto the SpaFlex to then thread into the Dart (with lots of teflon tape of course)

2) Installed 1-1/2" to 1" slip x slip reducing bushings (PVC) to each of the three "output ports" on the 3-way (if you don't have the special ABS-to-PVC glue, then use Christy's Red Hot glue)

3) Glued three independent 1" SpaFlex return lines to each of the ports on the 3-way (of convient lenghth)

4) Ran two of the 1" return lines to WavySeas on each side of the tank and finally the last 1" return to a simple LocLine nozzle in the center of the tank.

5) I also installed three 1" dual-union ballvalves (available at Lowe's for ~$10 each) to each return line so that they could a) be controlled for flow, and b) be taken apart for maintenance.

6) Leak tested, panicked, mopped up, fixed, leak tested again....

7) Kevin rested

 

[Bebo77]

yeah you will get little to no flow from a mag 9 out of 1.5 pvc. i had a 1000 gph pump return into my tank with 2 3/4" loc lines and the flow was a joke.. it went 3 or 4 inches from te end of the locline. with 2 T's.. you could even go to .5" pipe.. that will give you better "push"

 

[ReefMeister2]

btw,

the proposal I gave you last month doesn't seem so expensive any more, now does it?

 

[Gooli]

mike...i spoke to reeflo over the last few weeks about my dart as well...they are actually replacing mine since it's defective...anyways...

what you want to do is "Tee" the line as far away from the pump as possible and closest to the returns. I made the mistake of going 1" from the pump all the way to the returns and the flow is lower than it should be...now i gotta do the return piping all over again.

hope this helps

 

[saltyESQ]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8359629#post8359629 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefMeister2
btw,

the proposal I gave you last month doesn't seem so expensive any more, now does it?

oh man, life is never easy...choices choices choices.

I am almost done