What do you use?

buddhafish

New member
So I read an article on quarantine tanks, and was just wondering what you all do with yours. The article suggested using a cycled sponge filter from your main display. Do any of you keep your quarantine up all the time? Let me know how you guys go about it.
 
I am incredibly lax about mine, it isn't set up permanently, but I have a small bag of bioballs in my sump for quarantine setup, I just made a 10g all in one that I think may be my new quarantine tank from now on.
 
I typically do not cycle or use the sponge filters. I rely on WC's and prime if needed. My QT consists of a seachem ammonia alert badge, heater and air stone as well as some pvc fittings in a 29g tank. When I was doing my initial stocking the QT was running continuously. Now I add a couple fish a year.

Many folks will use the sponge filters or hob filter.
 
I use a QT tank for my corals and inverts. I used some sand and live rock from an established tank to get the beneficial bacteria. I leave it running all the time. Actually, I left it running for about 9 months with no light, no food, nothing added to it. When it came time to to QT some new corals I was amazed at all the sponges and tunicates in there.

So my vote is to leave it running all the time.

For a fish QT tank, I've heard a simple HOB and seeded sponge will do fine. Provide some PVC pipe for hide outs.
 
I only use my QT when needed.

I keep a small bag of seachem matrix media in the back of my DT(biocube) for bacteria when needed. Plop them in a HOB filter, with a heater, airstone, and an ammonia badge, were good to go. I do dose stability for a week, and keep plenty of prime on hand, but have never had an ammonia problem.
 
So in comparison to your other responses, I am a baby/beginner but I am also stocking a new tank and a bit compulsive about buying both fish and coral and I insist on QT for all(yes, learned the hard way)
So I keep an empty tank running all of the time and usually cycle a media filter in my canister in case I need it.
I start all fish on TTM so with only 3 days into a tank (and I usually do 5 on the first just to acclimate and then 4 transfers) I don't worry too much about spikes
I do test and monitor but in general have not had a bioload problem even in an overstocked hospital tank.
 
I run a 40 breeder full time as a QT even though I only buy a couple fish per year. Doesn't really cost anything to run and with a glass lid evap is almost nothing. I like having it available for emergencies also.
 
I run a 60 gal QT all the time. For the biofilter I use Seachem matrix and some various other biological media. I use a cheap 1300gph powerhead for flow. I have two large PVC pipes an airstone and a heater.

If there are no fish in the tank I will feed it once a week to keep the bio filter going.
 
I too learned my lesson the hard way.
I now have a fully cycled 40B for QT that runs full time
And pairs of 5, 10, and 20 g for TTM depending on the fish. These get setup uncycled as needed.
Seems like a lot of stuff, but under $200 total investment with the $1 a gallon sale.
I keep filter pads in my sumps.
 
Check out the fish disease forum fior a lot of great QT info.

I use 2 10g for TTM, then keep the fish in one of those tanks for the remainder of the quarantineeriod with frequent water chages. for the TTM i keep a large fistful of filter floos in my DT sump and use gobs of that in a corner box filter with an airpump (I have one for each tank). After the TTM part of the quartine is done I use penguin HOB filter with a cartridge that was seeded in my DT sump.

When I am not QTing a fish, the 10g tanks go to the basement. If I were to need to QT/treat on short notice, I would use the filter floss for quick bacteria seeding of the QT. properly quarantining new arrivals greatly reduces the chance of needing an emergency hospital tank.
 
Simple. 29 gallon tank from petco sale. Small power head, hob filter with no carbon, and copper safe. Dry sand and some Pvc. All in all cost.. $60. I paid more than that for a frag.
 

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