What would you do (Ich content)

Jstn

Member
So finally my tank has ich, i noticed some spots on my female picasso clown, along with my carpenter wrasse, all other fish seem 100% fine. I know you are suppose to quarantine all fish for 6 weeks ect. I have a pair of mandarine dragnets that appear fine, i read that copper really affects them and rather not keep them in a 10gal (or even 20gal ) for 6 weeks, they eat pellets, but still graze on copepods. I was thinking of just removing the effected fish for a few days doing the treatment and hoping for the best.

Main tank is a 40b, with a 20g sump,

Stock list,

Pair of clowns
Pair of mandarines
chalk bass
carpenter wrasse

So thats my gamble, treat all my fish and perhaps loose my mandarines due to stress/copper or just treat the affected fish and never beat ich.

To add insult to injury I am also dealing with dino, this hobby can be rough at times.
 
I have large breed angels and I"ve been told they don't take well to copper so I took the hypo method 2 1/2 months now I'm ich free, but till recently I was told it can be done at a lower dosage. I am not suggesting copper, but IMO you would have better luck gambling with hypo if copper is not an option.
 
So finally my tank has ich, i noticed some spots on my female picasso clown, along with my carpenter wrasse, all other fish seem 100% fine. I know you are suppose to quarantine all fish for 6 weeks ect. I have a pair of mandarine dragnets that appear fine, i read that copper really affects them and rather not keep them in a 10gal (or even 20gal ) for 6 weeks, they eat pellets, but still graze on copepods. I was thinking of just removing the effected fish for a few days doing the treatment and hoping for the best.

Main tank is a 40b, with a 20g sump,

Stock list,

Pair of clowns
Pair of mandarines
chalk bass
carpenter wrasse

So thats my gamble, treat all my fish and perhaps loose my mandarines due to stress/copper or just treat the affected fish and never beat ich.

To add insult to injury I am also dealing with dino, this hobby can be rough at times.

In order to eradicate ich you have to treat ALL fish. Fallow with a ich "resistant" fish will only lead to frustration. A fish "resistant" to ich likely still have low level of infestation.

You can do hypo if you are sure it is ich. But the difficulty is usually with supporting your fish for the long period, about 10 weeks of eradication in QT and to allow fallow DT for ich to die off.

The first thing I will do is to at once start a cycle for QT using a medium other than LR.

Meanwhile, do all you can to prevent the fish from dying from ich/ or ammonia in QT.
 
Above methods certainly are the correct and proven methods. I feel a lot is stress related and do moderate water change with very small but frequent feedings, even skip a day on my nano system to prevent over feed issue. Always worked.

On the hypo salinity is instant death to shrimp be careful.

Good luck

Likely a peek at the ich , looks abit like a white cell with nucleus


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W60Ekm3uOaQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
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You need to immediately remove all fish from the tank into a hospital tank. They will need to stay there for at least 30 days so that the ich in the tank can die of starvation. I personally use RID ICH PLUS which is a foramlin and malachite green mixture, but whatever you use, follow the directions precisely. Everyday that you wait to get them out the more will likely die.
 
First off your definitely correct. I've never lost fish to Ich. Kept fish in my early days over a decade.

Believe it takes well more than a month to die off, infact 3 or more suggested.

Read somewhere Ich doesn't thrive well above low 80s and above, like to hear more info on that.
 
I believe the tank transfer method would be your best bet. It's a very reliable procedure. You have few fish and the Mandarins wouldn't be exposed to copper. Feeding them in any kind of treatment situation is the difficult thing. I've never heard of a Mandarin that doesn't relish Nutramar Ova, which is prawn roe. It's a tasty morsel to a Mandarin and if you can get them to eat it, and feed it frequently enough, they might make it. Seventy-two days is the minimum to leave your display tank fallow, so you're looking at approximately ten weeks.
 
First off your definitely correct. I've never lost fish to Ich. Kept fish in my early days over a decade.

Believe it takes well more than a month to die off, infact 3 or more suggested.

Read somewhere Ich doesn't thrive well above low 80s and above, like to hear more info on that.

I guess longer is always better, I have been successful though at 30 days. In the tank that is fallow, there temperature would better raised because you will want to raise their metabolism and thus die off quicker.
 
I would do minimal 20 gallon qt tank. Anything smaller they will get stressed. I think its at least 6 - 8 weeks without fish. Good Luck.
 
On the hypo salinity is instant death to shrimp be careful.

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That is correct, but it why you don't normally Hypo your DT and QT the fish and proceed with hypo in the QT..



Read somewhere Ich doesn't thrive well above low 80s and above, like to hear more info on that.

In the tank that is fallow, there temperature would better raised because you will want to raise their metabolism and thus die off quicker.


What you guys are referring to is fresh water ich, marine ich can survive in a lot higher temp.. Point is raising the temp to 80,88 or 89 is not going to kill marine ich. That's the confusion people have mixing freshwater ich with marine ich.
 
That is correct, but it why you don't normally Hypo your DT and QT the fish and proceed with hypo in the QT..








What you guys are referring to is fresh water ich, marine ich can survive in a lot higher temp.. Point is raising the temp to 80,88 or 89 is not going to kill marine ich. That's the confusion people have mixing freshwater ich with marine ich.

Probably true, but in my case I was actually referring to the stage in the display tank where you actually waiting for them to starve to death after all fish have been removed in which case like most other creatures, if you warm them up, they would likely starve to death quicker, but it is only an hypothesis.
 
Probably true, but in my case I was actually referring to the stage in the display tank where you actually waiting for them to starve to death after all fish have been removed in which case like most other creatures, if you warm them up, they would likely starve to death quicker, but it is only an hypothesis.

Ok sorry, I misunderstood you. Too many times I see and hear people thinking having and leaving fish in the DT and cranking up the temp they are killing the marine parasite which is not true for marine ich.
 
Picked up a 20 gal, I can't seem to find cupamine locally, I think I'm going to move them in the night, similar to a tank transfer method
 
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