wish me luck

tabwyo

Premium Member
I am going to set up a horsie pen, my mind is made up. That and the wife is twisting my arm a tad. I have a 30Gxt moded with a 12L by 4W(front to back) external overflow. The sump will be a 10G to house a carbon reactor and a tricked out seaclone. The return pump will be a QuietOne1200 for a slow turnover. I have a batch of Marshall LR that is infested with a kelp like macro alge wich will go in the tank, I'd say 40# worth at least 40% of wich is crawling with the kelp. 20# of special grade argonite sand. The trouble I am having is do I stick with the 10,000k 150W MH pendant or switch to a 50/50 130W PC fixture I have collectin dust. I would like input on the "planned" setup and tips on growing my macro. I'd love to have a SW planted tank.
 
im planning on getting Seahorse soon two.. i am converting my tank.. and transfering all un SH safe corals and fish to another 30g. hopefully it will all be done in feb. and i can go pick up some SH's from DanU
goood luck with yours!
keep us posted.. and give pics

-josh
 
If you want seagrasses in the setup, go with the MH, if you want fast growth and lots of macro, still MH.. but I think macroalgae, including most kelps/sargrassum and other browns, would be fine with the 130watt PC setup, provided you switch bulbs to daylights.

>Sarah
 
I thought I read that it was not a good idea to keep sea horses under MH lighting because it is so bright.

The more I think about it, the more I don't understand how it affects them with light.... but if anyone has something to say, please do..... just what I have read before and throwing it out there.
 
I honestly feel the no-MH thing comes from those with nutrient heavy seahorse systems, which would probably cause a nice algae issue under so much light. And then we get algae on the seahorses. I very much doubt seahorses are really so photosensitive. The dwarfs never reacted to high light in seagrass tanks. And, while snorkeling or diving, I've seen SH and pipes in incredibly bright seagrass beds. Of course, in these situations, they have the option of retreating to shaded areas.

>Sarah
 
I have always been under the impression that the biggest problem with MH over seahorse tanks is that they create alot of heat, making it more difficult to keep the tank at the lower temps most seahorses require (at least lower than most people keep their reef tanks). I would think that as long as some shady areas were provided and you deal with the heat issues, seahorses should be fine under MH, given their natural habitat....

Just my $0.02 :)
 
I would agree. As long as you can keep the heat down (not always easy with MH) and provide the seahorses with overhangs or macro beds to find shelter and shade if they want it, I don't see any problem with MH. I use PCs more in general because they don't use as much electricity, and don't get so hot. But I do use MHs over my crocea clam/SPS tank (which used to house seahorses before I got the clams).
 
I have a 250watt mh on my 29 reef, i know that seahorses need cooler tanks than reef tanks, but i run a fan over my sump and it helps out greatly. You dont have to have mh but if you want it there are solutions to solve heat problems. In a small tank you can buy an ice probe chiller for around 100 dollars. I just think mh looks more natural.
 
I have the MH heat problem. Currently I only run half my lighting because of it. Haven't figured out how to get the heat down otherwise yet.

But, is there any reason you can't swap back and forth between the two lighting options. I assume you own all the lighting already. If so, then start with one, if you don't like it, try the other.

Good luck, Kevin
 
I think consistency for the light requiring plants and animals is important. If you are running PCs a few hours a day and MH a few hours, it's probably fine. But if you are alternating days, or running MH when the season is cool and other lights when temperatures are higher, I don't think it is a good idea.
 
The pendant is stayin. I can deal with heat issues. I have decided to run a wet/dry and no skimmer. I will just ramp up my water changes. Say 10g a week. I intend to run this as "turbid" as possible without fighting continual "undisireable" alge outbreaks.
 
If I wanted sea grass/macro, could I just put lower watt MH over a SH tank to keep down electricity costs and still get the nice effect? I'm thinking maybe 2 150 W MH in a 75.
 
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