wood choices?

[kclewis]

im building a stand for my new 90 gal tank. but i have some questions for you wood workers out there. the idea is to have tapered exposed corners made out of solid maple posts 3 1/2 in. at the bottom and 3 in. at the top. i am then going to mortese and tendon the supports into the legs. my current choice of wood is maple. i have found some good prices here on maple and some even nicer birdseye to add the final touches to.....doors and top and bottom rails. the two sides will be made out of plywood wrapped in tiger maple venere. the top will be solid solid plywood with a maple venere and wrapped around the outside with walnut. this will then be tied in with walnut door handles and a walnut inlay running up each post. so before i go and drop the money for supplies and more importantly time, is maple a good choice? should i lean more torwards cherry or walnut. i do not want oak....such an ugly grain. any help will be much appreciated.
kcl

 

[ErikS]

Really your call - it's a matter of personal choice. Any wood will be fine as long as it's protected. Maple can be a tad tricky in that it has a tendancy to burn when milled but that's just sanding.

Personally I like maple as it finishes up very nicely & accepts a variety of finishes with ease. Cherry can be a bit more difficult as it can blotch when staining. Walnut is nice, but more expensive than maple.

I'm in your camp w/ oak, white & red, has to be one of the ugliest woods I've ever seen.

 

[240-Reefer]

maple is a great choice for this. maple is a very hard wood (much harder then cherry and walnut) and is very pleasing to the eye, I am doing cherry for the mear fact that I just finished a pizzaria that was all cherry and lets just say they there was some extra(wink-wink) anyway as a woodworker I know the plus and minus to both. if you go for the extra money for the tiger and birdseye, dont cheep out on the finish. it the most importand step. find a local distrubiter for http://www.mlcampbell.com/pages/starpage.asp?star=KRY this is what we use. its commerical grade an NO yellowing, brings out the true buty of maple. NO, I repeat NO minwax. need some pointers ill be around sound like your in the right direction:thumbsup:

 

[240-Reefer]

OH YEA oak and pine are good for one thing; to keep us warm:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[kclewis]

thanks for the link. i have a couple of books that give pointers on how to finish the birdseye and tiger to really make it stand out. im looking to finish it natural with no stains or dye.
thanks again

 

[Donw]

Are you laying up your own veneers? Make sure your veneers are sliced not peeled, also that you dont use pva or pva cold press on them.

Don

 

[kclewis]

yes i am. im kind of new at veneers so i dont get crazy thin with them. ive made a couple of tables with book matched venneers in witch i cut them about 1/16 of an inch thick on the bandsaw then joint and thickness plane them. this alows for some adjustment. plus i dont believe in sandpaper and do all of the smoothing with hand planes. cutting the veneers alittle thicker, i then plane them down. seems to work well and i havent needed a vacuum press.

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6601753#post6601753 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kclewis
i havent needed a vacuum press.

Then definately dont use pva. Your lucky to get a 50% bond without a press, the veneers do stick but the long term moisture failure rate is going to go way up. A resin adhesive and a straight grain barrier will help.

Don

 

[kclewis]

just found a guy here in indy with some walnut and maple, air dried, that he is going to sell me for a $1 a board foot........ he sent me pics, awesome figure. so the veneers are out just building out of solid maple and walnut now.