workhorse ballast vs. icecap?

From what I understand when researching the two ballasts for t5o bulbs, the icecap will overdrive the bulbs, producing more light and possibly shortening the life of the bulb while workhorses don't. I have a shallow tank so I went with the MUCh less expensive workhorse ballast.
 
Yes, the icecap can overdrive bulbs, which can shorten the life (slightly). The workhorse, however, is rapid start and not "soft" start which also shortens the life of the bulbs. So, from that standpoint, your bulbs seem to be doomed to a shorten life either way.

Yes, there is a huge difference, it's just very subtle. Go with the icecap if you want to make a real investment, or the workhorse if you just want something that will turn the lights on.
 
Comparing the lose of life of a lamp on an instant start ballast to the lose of life on an IC ballast is kind of silly to me. Instant start IS harder on a lamp than program start BUT remember people only cycle lamps on once a day AND no one uses the lamp for the entire 15000 or so hours a T5 lamp can run for. Most go for maybe 4500 hrs or so. The lamp life degradation is IME unimportant when dealing with usable life...
As stated a few times now the IC ballasts will OD the lamps to roughly 100 watts instead of 80. The OD lamp debate still rages on as IC still hasnt commented on PAR increase % vs energy and heat increase %. I do know Grim has tested it and founs that the increase % is in your favor at least with the 80watt lamps..They are also nice on tanks over 24" at least according to Grim
I my tank I am glad I went with the Wh and if I did it agIn I would most likely do it the same
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15480956#post15480956 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JRechcygl
Comparing the lose of life of a lamp on an instant start ballast to the lose of life on an IC ballast is kind of silly to me. Instant start IS harder on a lamp than program start BUT remember people only cycle lamps on once a day AND no one uses the lamp for the entire 15000 or so hours a T5 lamp can run for. Most go for maybe 4500 hrs or so. The lamp life degradation is IME unimportant when dealing with usable life...

Man, I'm glad someone finally agrees with me. The "shortened life" argument is really pretty bogus in this aspect.

I have 4x 39W's overdriven on an IC660, and 2x 39W's running on a nova retrofit. I can say the overdriven bulbs are noticeably brighter. That doesn't relate directly to a PAR increase, but I'd bet there is still a good increase.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15484251#post15484251 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by evsalty
Do Ice Cap ballasts overdrive MH lamps too or is that just with flourescent lamps?

I think its just fluorescent. Wiz ;)
 
Depending on which WH ballast/lamp combination you use, you can actually overdrive lamps with a WH ballast as well. Depends on the number of 'red' wires the WH ballast has and the recommended wiring diagram according to Fulham. I have two WH8s each driving two 54watt T5HO lamps. The lamps will fire using just one red wire but I currently have two red wires supplying each lamp. Been working fine for 4-5 months now.

WH8 provides a maximum of 220watts and has 6 red wires. I'm not sure this is valid, but dividing 220 by 6 = 36.6666, therefore I'm assuming each red wire is designed to output around 36 watts. So by connecting two red wires to each of my 54watt T5HO lamps, I'm 'assuming' they're overdriven at just over 73 watts. Checking this with an Energy Monitor (similar to a Killawatt I think), I'm able to confirm that two lamps are using 160 watts, so about 80 watts each for a 54 watt lamp. Not only am I overdriving, but also using an Instant Start ballast, heaven forbid.

So I guess to complete the experiment, all I need to do is another measurement with just one red wire supplying each lamp. Stay tuned...
 
I don't believe you can just divide the number of "hot" wires by the number of maximum wattage... I know you can't do that with icecaps, as the maxium "footage" rule would not coincide with the maximum "wattage" rule.

I wouldn't advice wiring the bulbs any differently than depicted in the diagram.
 
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