Yet again another "do I have enough light" question.

Timidfish

New member
I have a 56 tall tank measures at roughly 30 inches long, 18 inches wide and about 25 inches tall, I was given a few birdsnest to try out in my tank and want to make sure I have the lighting for it, I have a 24 inch wave point t5 4 bulb unit that I am running all ati bulbs in. I have the light about 3-4 inches off the water surface and the sps is at the very top of the rock work maybe 4-5 inches off the water surface, Now according to the gent that gave them to me, he said if I keep them up high in the tank and as close to the main part of the lighting, I.E. not out to the edges, I should be just fine.
I believe I am seeing some growth but am not sure and google fu isn't working for me this morning. I have some little white nubs that show up when the lights are off and then when the lights come on they are almost not able to be seen. I do have one spot that had some tissue loss from being transferred and my stoopid self grabbing the actual branch when I knocked it off a rock, but other then that I don't see any loss. I don't expect over night growth by any means on this, just not wanting to kill it from lack of lighting.
I also run a reef octopus bh-2000 skimmer on the tank as of around a month ago, that has been pulling all sorts of junk out of the tank, that I thought was a fairly clean system. My alk usually hangs out around 9.5 Cal is around 450 and Mag is around 1400, I say usually because I test it every other day right now since I am starting to do some sps things, I have 3 birdsnest and a monti cap. I run a ato system on the tank to keep the water level constant as I can and manually dose every other day when needed, I don't let the 3 main ones swing much at all though, say it gets cal to 440 I bring it back up to 450 and the same on the others.

I should have mentioned the lighting is a 96 watt light, the tank is around 6-7 months old now and is mainly lps dominant and those are all doing quite well.

Now I know I said it was a light question and added the other stuff, but I wanted to give you everything I could for the answer to be as good of one as I could get.

If this matters I run 2 blue plus a coral and purple plus bulb. Thank you again. I was given the birdsnest to try out to see what happens, so hopefully I do have some growth happening as I believe I do.
 
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Similar dimentions as my 65 gallon tank, being 25" tall and 36" wide, except I use 5xT5 fixture. (2x10K and 3x460)

It depending on what birdsnest you have you can keep them in different places, but you are short 1 bulb from me, which puts you down 20% less light from me.
I keep the orange-tipped-green, birds of paradise and green at 20", the pink at 17" and the ponape at 15" below water level. That is their maximum depth and I can't use any of the low PAR violet or red bulbs. Lastly, when the bulbs are between 6 and 9 months old, there is zero growth and they get weak.

Summary at max depth
You'll probably need 1x10K, 3x460 for maximum PAR light and need to change bulbs every 6 months. Since you're down 20% light (or more specifically 50% of 10K), substract a few inches from my setting, maybe move 4"? higher.
I use to use combo 420/460 bulbs for 9 months, but that had so little par, corals at deep positions were dying off when the bulbs were 3 or 4 months.
dsc_1704.jpg
 
Ok so the bulbs I have are not the best par setup? Sorry I don't know about that stuff very well yet. I didn't have much flow going towards the area I have the birdsnest in so I redirected it towards them today. Also I have a green& purple/metallic looking birdsnest. Would it be better to try a deep water acro. That doeant require as much lighting? I have access to a piece of that too. I know I don't havr the best lighting for this. But the guy is being nice and letting me try a few small pieces to see what the lights can and can't do.

From what I have read on liveaquaria the acroa take less lighting to a certain point then a birdsnest. But a birdsnest is suppose to be a tad easier to care for. According to the lfs I am running around a 12k color setup. Which is the hat they run on thier frag tanks. But they also have 10 bulb lights I believe. Because the tabks are so wide.

If I can't have the sticks yet then ok I suplose. But man I really was hoping for a few lol. Thank you for the help.
 
Well, max PAR means using light that the corals use, which I think is ~460nm. I copied ATI's bulb info from another website below and accorrding to this, it seems you are running a combo that renders everything the best for 4 bulbs with reds, blues, pruples and white so everything has the best color. I think, the max PAR would come from aquablue special. When they add in reds or violets, you lose PAR.

SO, your purple+ is the full spectrum bulb, minues a little PAR for the extra color rendition, and the blue+ is a 460/420 combo. If I do the math correctly and assume the blue+ is a 50/50 blend, then 2 blue+ is the same as running separate 460 and 420 blub, of which the 460 is 100% usable PAR and the 420 isn't.
That means you're running the equivalent of slightly less than 2 and 1/2 bulbs of PAR. Hmm, guess you need to raise up the pieces another 4-6", so instead of a max depth of 20", you're around 12"?


Aquablue Special: full-spectrum bulb with an elevated blue color peak - 15000K.

Blue Plus: Combines the properties of a blue bulb (approximately 460nm) with an actinic bulb (approximately 420nm)

Coral Plus:Combines the properties of a Blue Plus (~50%) + Aquablue Special (~40%) + Purple Plus (~10%)

Purple Plus: full spectrum bulb with strong red and blue components producing a bulb with excellent color-rendition.

I find the birdsnest as one of the easiest corals to keep. Acros are much more sensitive to light and water conditions. I don't think I have any deepwater acros though unless purple bonsai or purple nana are deep water.
 
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Ok I apologiZe. I was beyond tired last night. Had worked. Atriple and was late getting off from work. I have a aquablue plus 2 blue plus and a purple plus.
 
Ah, that moves you back to up to almost 3 bulbs of PAR (minus a bit of PAR from red in the purple+)

Next time you change out the bulbs in 6-9 months, if you want to grow them deeply, stick with the 2 aquablue specials and another 2 pure 460s. (or any combo that gives you 1x10/12K white and 3x460 or you can do 2x10/12K and 2x460s) After the corals grow upwards by 4 inches, then you can swap out one of the 460s for blue+.
 
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Sweet. Would it be better to have a extra aquablue plus? I will get it when I upgrade in a few months instead of tao blue pluses. Also I take it that this means I should be able to keep birdsnest? And possibly acros? Because my purple/metallic is starting to lose tissue. And I don't know why. Lol. My mag was really low today but cal and alk was normal.
 
Well, you'll have to calculate out the PAR from now on. One more note on PAR, the 460s are at 100% but they are physically dimmer then then 10 or 12K bulbs, which are around 75% PAR. In my fixture, I've tried using 1x10K and 4x460s, but growth suffered which is why I'm using 2x10K and 3x460s. I'm not sure which is better for you since I don't have your fixture.

This site shows the break down between some white vs blue bulbs which I've booked marked for reference.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/3/review

This site offers bulb combos, one of which is what you're running now.
http://home.comcast.net/~stevelarse...s/&PHPSESSID=947114d83ebd43d27855241857aa7f39

You can grow anything under your fixture, it all depends on how high you put it. Once I had is green slimmer and I kept it around 12" below the surface (where the green millie is in the center/left), since I knew it was one of the "high light" needs a metal halide to keep. It was dying slowly over 6 months. At first, the polyps didn't come out, then the tissue was getting thinner, then the underside died out. Well, since I was going to lose it, I glued it onto my over flow 2" right below the surface and it bounced back and was growing within a month. In my photo, it would be right to the left of the purple/green frogspawn and 10" above the green millie, where the giant green pavona in the back ground has grown over the overflow chamber. In the end, the pavona over grew the area and killed it.
 
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Thank you for all the help and advice. I was going to borrow a par meter from a local group but gor out of it do to lack of organization and rhe damn politics wrre way out of hand.

They had no idea wjere tje meter was because they never wrote anything down and couldnt ecplain where money and product donations went off to.
 
Add a fan to the bulbs. Gain 15-20% more PAR easy. Keep a few sticks directly under the bulbs and as close as possible to the light. Top 1/3rd of the tank anyway.
You are underpowered in the light department for a SPS tank but you can have a few close to the light and see what works for you.
 
Yea I have a light blowing over the lights to keep them cool. And if I am under powered I will hold off until I can upgrade the lights. My plan is to upgrade to leds. Then move this light to my smaller 30 gallon I am going to start.
 
Well not to drag up a thread that was on the verge of dyying off, but I got my Refractrometer in finally today, and my hydrometer was off way more and in the wrong direction then i was lead to believe, my s.g. was 1.020 not .025 as I thought the hydrometer was marked to take into account for, so my guess is that is part of the reason the birdsnest is not wanting to live.
 
Make sure you calibrate your refractometer with the proper solution. They can be just as inaccurate if not so. Just a heads up.
 
Make sure you calibrate your refractometer with the proper solution. They can be just as inaccurate if not so. Just a heads up.


Thank you for the heads up. That was the very first thing I did. Will the sg being that low cause stn and rtn?
 
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