Zoanthus help?

[fishtk75]

I have a rock with zoanthus polyps that was open and large growing find and then I saw a low growing white mass on the rock growing to each polyp as it done that the zoanthus is not big any more is open but very small as a small buttom polyps its as the white mass is sucking the energy out of the coral.
Can someone tell me how to kill that white stuff?

 

[reefnetworth]

i dont even know what that is. ive seen some trippy thing in the reef. but that one if unusual to me. sorry i cant help, REEF-ON!!!

 

[gflat65]

Check out the zoa forum for idea on dips. It may be the white fungus... I good dip in some Lugols will usually help out. There is a sticky in the forum describing the method. Is the white mass cottony or hard? If it is a hard lump, it may be what people are calling zoa pox. This seems to be a functino of water quality. I've had it pop up twice and the first time water changes fixed it (took about a week or two to start see them shrink). I currently have one colony with the lumps, but I believe it to be water quality and heat related (hot as hell in Tn right now and no chiller on the 10g with most of my zoas in it). I've reduced photoperiod and am doing more water changes and things seem to be turning around. I may be lucky, though, as it seems that many are having problems that they can't remedy.

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7791721#post7791721 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gflat65
Check out the zoa forum for idea on dips. It may be the white fungus... I good dip in some Lugols will usually help out. There is a sticky in the forum describing the method. Is the white mass cottony or hard? If it is a hard lump, it may be what people are calling zoa pox. This seems to be a functino of water quality. I've had it pop up twice and the first time water changes fixed it (took about a week or two to start see them shrink). I currently have one colony with the lumps, but I believe it to be water quality and heat related (hot as hell in Tn right now and no chiller on the 10g with most of my zoas in it). I've reduced photoperiod and am doing more water changes and things seem to be turning around. I may be lucky, though, as it seems that many are having problems that they can't remedy.

Thanks for your help.
Hard white as a sponge looking.

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7791721#post7791721 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gflat65
Check out the zoa forum for idea on dips. It may be the white fungus... I good dip in some Lugols will usually help out. There is a sticky in the forum describing the method. Is the white mass cottony or hard? If it is a hard lump, it may be what people are calling zoa pox. This seems to be a functino of water quality. I've had it pop up twice and the first time water changes fixed it (took about a week or two to start see them shrink). I currently have one colony with the lumps, but I believe it to be water quality and heat related (hot as hell in Tn right now and no chiller on the 10g with most of my zoas in it). I've reduced photoperiod and am doing more water changes and things seem to be turning around. I may be lucky, though, as it seems that many are having problems that they can't remedy.

I need to ask is dip ok for other corals?
Also what brand of Lugol's?
And I said the word dip on the other forums and they said no way it does not work only hurting the corals.
I need to know because 50% yes dip and 50% said no.

 

[gflat65]

Freshwater dips are okay for zoas (and leathers, I think, but not sure on the leathers). A FW dip will likely kill or maim most other corals. I use Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure for all other corals (and Ive dipped zoas in it too, but prefer to use just Lugols. TMPCC has a lot of Iodine in it, but no one knows what else. I use the Kent brand. I dip everything and QT for at least four weeks now. Issues with AEFW's and the lose of many a coral have me weary.

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7821112#post7821112 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gflat65
Freshwater dips are okay for zoas (and leathers, I think, but not sure on the leathers). A FW dip will likely kill or maim most other corals. I use Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure for all other corals (and Ive dipped zoas in it too, but prefer to use just Lugols. TMPCC has a lot of Iodine in it, but no one knows what else. I use the Kent brand. I dip everything and QT for at least four weeks now. Issues with AEFW's and the lose of many a coral have me weary.

So the bottom line is to dip all new coral?

 

[gflat65]

Some say no, but I will for everything. With nudi's and AEFW, imagine a bunch of LPS in a connected system to SPS (or containing SPS). There is a possibility of eggs or even a stray nudi/AFEW being on the coral, so once introduced it could begin another round of fun. I've been burned, so nothing goes in my displays without 4 weeks of dips and observations. Gotta love preventive paranoia.

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7823438#post7823438 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gflat65
Some say no, but I will for everything. With nudi's and AEFW, imagine a bunch of LPS in a connected system to SPS (or containing SPS). There is a possibility of eggs or even a stray nudi/AFEW being on the coral, so once introduced it could begin another round of fun. I've been burned, so nothing goes in my displays without 4 weeks of dips and observations. Gotta love preventive paranoia.

QT is how?
What do you have how is it setup the QT?

 

[gflat65]

I'm running a 20 long with a 175W MH, a Magnum 250 HOB, MJ120, and a Berlin Turbo HOB skimmer (which rarely ever works...). I QT everything in that tank (SPS, LPS, zoas, etc.). If not for the SPS, I'd likely be running PC's or something lower light in the QT to save energy and costs. Basically, every coral either gets a bath in TMPCC or the Iodine bath for zoas (have put zoas through the TMPCC, too). Then they sit for a week and get redipped. That goes on for about four weeks, then I start thinking about moving them into one of my displays... It's tough to make yourself do it, but after the issues with pests I've seen over the last six months, I'd rather do it on the front end than to move everything out again for treatment later...

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7830797#post7830797 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gflat65
I'm running a 20 long with a 175W MH, a Magnum 250 HOB, MJ120, and a Berlin Turbo HOB skimmer (which rarely ever works...). I QT everything in that tank (SPS, LPS, zoas, etc.). If not for the SPS, I'd likely be running PC's or something lower light in the QT to save energy and costs. Basically, every coral either gets a bath in TMPCC or the Iodine bath for zoas (have put zoas through the TMPCC, too). Then they sit for a week and get redipped. That goes on for about four weeks, then I start thinking about moving them into one of my displays... It's tough to make yourself do it, but after the issues with pests I've seen over the last six months, I'd rather do it on the front end than to move everything out again for treatment later...

Ok so I get this right for a QT for corals only
1-20 long tank
2-light for corals
3-skimmer
4- after each weeks dip for 4 weeks

Now you keep this coral QT running 24/7?
Also do you do fish in that tank or do you have a seperate QT for fish also?

 

[gflat65]

I run it 24/7, but that is more because I haven't had a chance to break it down with all the pests I've been treating (and then the new corals to replace the dead ones due to pests/treatments). I have another set up with PC's (10 gallon) that I usually use for fish QT. I don't buy a whole of fish these days, though.

 

[fishtk75]

Thankyou very much for taking the time to help me.

I need to know is the QT for coral is bare no media?

 

[gflat65]

I have it bare bottom, just in case I needed to treat the whole tank. I was doing AEFW treatments several months back and treated the whole tank. That allowed me to remove all corals and physically wash the entire tank and all componets to make sure I wasn't leaving something behind (the AEFW's were spotted cruising the glass before and during the first treatment, so better safe than sorry). It requires attention, though. LPS seem top be okay with the QT and little attentino (as do zoas and most softies, etc.), but my SPS need water changes pretty frequently and the occasinoal addition of Ca or Alk media to keep the levels right. I start to see recession (STN) on the sps-mainly acros-after three or four days with no attention. I've run Monti's through the tank for nudi treatments and they seem to do better than acros in this environment. They also survive Levamisole treatments much better for me than my acros did...

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7843485#post7843485 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gflat65
I have it bare bottom, just in case I needed to treat the whole tank. I was doing AEFW treatments several months back and treated the whole tank. That allowed me to remove all corals and physically wash the entire tank and all componets to make sure I wasn't leaving something behind (the AEFW's were spotted cruising the glass before and during the first treatment, so better safe than sorry). It requires attention, though. LPS seem top be okay with the QT and little attentino (as do zoas and most softies, etc.), but my SPS need water changes pretty frequently and the occasinoal addition of Ca or Alk media to keep the levels right. I start to see recession (STN) on the sps-mainly acros-after three or four days with no attention. I've run Monti's through the tank for nudi treatments and they seem to do better than acros in this environment. They also survive Levamisole treatments much better for me than my acros did...

Is there on RC or somewhere else that shows corals diseases and how to treat them?
I need to ask you if you know what I cando Ican not remember if you tolled me what it is was poxs or something else or not.
That did you ever have a zoo that was ok and up and opened did not change any water or add anything differant in maintence and then it got very small not opening up like is was before all the others zoos are ok.
But this one can you think of what it may have that is why I ask that above. I see some very small white spots I do not know as before if it is hard or soft spots need to know what to look for and treat it for I took it out of the main tank and but it in as you said a QT.
If you can help again?

 

[gflat65]

If the qwhite spots feel like lump on the side of the stalk of the zoa, it is what is called pox. Many have had trouble with this issue. I've had it twice and seem to have been abel to knock it out by making sure my water stays semi cool (no 82+ temps) and doing water changes. That hasn't worked for everyone, though. With zoas, Iodine dips can be a good way to nurse them back to health. If you, know you've not got pests and just want to try to dip the ones you have, you wouldn't need to go the QT route. On future additions, it wouldn't be a bad idea, but the main reason I do the QT is for pests. You can dip, then throw the frag back into the display to just try to make something look better (unless there is a pest). If there is a pest present (nudi, spider, etc.), the best bet is to QT them all and try to eradicate the pest with weekly treatments. HTH

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7848371#post7848371 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gflat65
If the qwhite spots feel like lump on the side of the stalk of the zoa, it is what is called pox. Many have had trouble with this issue. I've had it twice and seem to have been abel to knock it out by making sure my water stays semi cool (no 82+ temps) and doing water changes. That hasn't worked for everyone, though. With zoas, Iodine dips can be a good way to nurse them back to health. If you, know you've not got pests and just want to try to dip the ones you have, you wouldn't need to go the QT route. On future additions, it wouldn't be a bad idea, but the main reason I do the QT is for pests. You can dip, then throw the frag back into the display to just try to make something look better (unless there is a pest). If there is a pest present (nudi, spider, etc.), the best bet is to QT them all and try to eradicate the pest with weekly treatments. HTH

Thanks is there as I said on RC or somewere that show diseases?

 

[gflat65]

Check the zoa forum. There are several stickies and I'm sure someone has pics posted of the pox (as well as other things that might cause problems). Another site to check out is zoaid.com. They have some pics of different predators and "diseases".

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7851977#post7851977 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gflat65
Check the zoa forum. There are several stickies and I'm sure someone has pics posted of the pox (as well as other things that might cause problems). Another site to check out is zoaid.com. They have some pics of different predators and "diseases".

Thank you very much