Zoas issues

[nystang]

For the last 2-3 weeks my corals look bad. Zoas are closed partially or completely. Those on the photos were fully opened and looked great. Parameters are very good except I had a spike of Ca when I was on vacation but it is in the range now. It looks like it need more light but lights are strong enough. No parasites that I can see. I started to dose Algaefix recently because I noticed some hair algae and I thought maybe this is the problem. I made several WC but it didn't change although I think it helped a little. one or 2 of my frogspawn heads are also partially closed. Any idea what it may be?
Sorry for the image but it shows what I mean. The polyps are extended and they were never like this.

 

[Fishypapa]

Just from this and and considering your LPS is acting similarly, it sounds like something in the water is off. Can you post your params?

 

[nystang]

Here they are:
Gravity - 1.026
Ca 520
alk 9
Phosphate 0
Ph 8.0
Mg 1300
Nitrate 0

Around 08.22 My Ca skyrocketed to 720 (vacation and some mistake. So I immediately stopped dosing and I started to dose once it leveled at 500. Also around that time I found a Huge Mexican turbo snail that died and it was in the tank for about a week or so. the tank is 29 g and almost 1.5 year old.

 

[Fishypapa]

Hmm everything does look good there. Have you lost any other livestock? That CA shouldn't be a biggie either. Are you running carbon at all?

 

[nystang]

No, no carbon

 

[Fishypapa]

Did the water temp stay normal? Any buildup of cyano or anything? I'd try running some carbon in case there was some kind of chemical warfare going on between corals and/or remnants of the snail decomposition.

 

[nystang]

yes. The temperature is very stable. I have some hair algae and I am trying to fight it with API Algaefix. What do you recommend for carbon. I never did it.

 

[Fishypapa]

Carbon does best in a reactor but you can also put it in a mesh bag and place it in an area with good flow. That will remove any chemicals or biochemicals. Not sure about using it while using algae fix so you'll want to read the specs on that. Can also put some phosphate remover in the bag with it.

 

[heckeng]

I have had this as well, but using red slime remover. I believe (after several trials) that many of these algae fixes do something to the corals or water which make them more succeptible to bleaching and light sensitivity. I have unfortunately killed many zoa colonies because they slowly withered away. Once I realized what I thought was going on, I did not treat with algae remover stuff any longer. Being in your position, if it were me, I would try dimming the lights for a week or so, at least for a little bit of time after you get all of the algae stuff out of the water.

 

[extremehobbyist]

what test kit are you using to test phosphates?

 

[nystang]

API, l know.

 

[extremehobbyist]

yea i'm not a big fan of those api test kits not the most accurate and from .00 to their first color .25 is a huge difference leading room for a lot of error.

 

[TankStudy]

If everything in the tank is indeed at correct parameters, there are no parasites, no visible infections, I would let the tank stabilize before continuing. Even with water changes, if you quickly bring the water back to normal, I've noticed it may take a few days or even weeks for polyps to be back to normal.

This process is prolonged however if you continually makes changes not allowing the zoanthids/palys to readjust. It may be the correct parameter waters again but even then it has to adjust to it.

 

[njdevilsfan]

Here they are:
Gravity - 1.026
Ca 520
alk 9
Phosphate 0
Ph 8.0
Mg 1300
Nitrate 0

Around 08.22 My Ca skyrocketed to 720 (vacation and some mistake. So I immediately stopped dosing and I started to dose once it leveled at 500. Also around that time I found a Huge Mexican turbo snail that died and it was in the tank for about a week or so. the tank is 29 g and almost 1.5 year old.

not trying to be captin know it all but,,i don't believe these numbers usually to hold ca and alk at the higher range the mag would be higher .at least that was what happened to me when I was trying to keep numbers like you have .when my mag was in the 1300 range my alk and ca would swing a lot it wasn't until I got close to 1500 with mag I could keep ca over 500 and alk up at 9 .of course testing all this all the time will kinda drive you to start talking to your self and skipping showers etc etc

 

[nystang]

UPDATE
First of all, Ca and Alk is actually in this range, I am dosing with BRS dosers and it was checked several times. I finally took my water to a reliable LFS and with the Hanna checker my phosphate is 0.13 so way too high. I am running GFO already so it will probably take some time to remove phosphate. I started with a very low dosage as dropping phosphate too quickly may have also a negative effect.

 

[njdevilsfan]

UPDATE
First of all, Ca and Alk is actually in this range, I am dosing with BRS dosers and it was checked several times. I finally took my water to a reliable LFS and with the Hanna checker my phosphate is 0.13 so way too high. I am running GFO already so it will probably take some time to remove phosphate. I started with a very low dosage as dropping phosphate too quickly may have also a negative effect.

Sorry if you misunderstood my point I wasn't doubting your alk and ca numbers I was doubting your mag number . Sounds like you think you found what the problem is. I was just saying for me to keep higher range ca and alk I had to get myself mag up higher or I would have swings

 

[Reefa25]

I've had this happen as well before.still to this day i have no clue what went wrong. perimeters were perfect, and frustration was maxed out! I simply broke down tank and redid it and my zoas are THRIVING. Something may have contaminated your tank and sometimes tests won't pick it up.

 

[IowaJeeping]

i say run carbon and see if that helps. If everything is in check has to be something your not testing for or cant see stat with carbon and go from there.