zoas loosing color
- Thread starter dviper150
- Start date
A. Grandis
Active member
That's a "quick double question" that needs an article to explain deeply!!
Quick answer? Yes, as most of us already know.
You need to get to your specific point, so people can come here and answer/ discuss it according to your needs. In other words, why are you asking?
Grandis.
Quick answer? Yes, as most of us already know.
You need to get to your specific point, so people can come here and answer/ discuss it according to your needs. In other words, why are you asking?
Grandis.
dviper150
New member
I am asking because if I start my zoa off too high and it starts browning or loosing color, then I will know to move the zoa down and not up if its the case that zoas loose/fade with more high intensity light.
In other words, how will I know when the zoa is getting too high or too low light? and will all the zoas/palys display the same signs?
In other words, how will I know when the zoa is getting too high or too low light? and will all the zoas/palys display the same signs?
A. Grandis
Active member
No, not all the zoathids will display the same sign. no.
To tell you the truth, not all the zoanthus spp. or Palythoa spp. (the most common zoanthids in the trade) will display the same signs.
Sometimes even the same species of zoas, as many here have posted before, could be affected differently when moved from different tanks. Sometimes even from same mother colonies.
They will show signs of bleaching when stronger than need light is offered. That could happen when temperature is higher than the acceptable average also. Or both!
Basically you need to keep your eyes open and aways start from the bottom of the tank with new zoas, when possible. The main reason for that is because 100% of the zoas you'll get will need to adapt to the new tank in every aspect, so that's the safest way to go at least in regards to the light.
Zoas are not that difficult to adapt to new light sources in most cases, and if you start from the bottom of the tank it should be fine as a basic suggestion. The time of adaptation is normally a month, I would say, depending on how different the light sources are (old and new lights).
Keep in mind that if your light is much more powerful than the light they were under before you'll need to shade them and gradually bring them out for your type of light, as we all should know by now.
Careful when you change bulbs too. They can be harmed with sudden changes.
In regards to getting brownish, that normally means low light and/or too much nutrients, as we already have observed too.
All that needs to be cared for.
There is no rules nor a magic portion you can lay on.
Every time you have a new zoa there will be a new beginning of observation period that will vary for each individual polyp or colony.
Hope that helps a bit.
Grandis.
To tell you the truth, not all the zoanthus spp. or Palythoa spp. (the most common zoanthids in the trade) will display the same signs.
Sometimes even the same species of zoas, as many here have posted before, could be affected differently when moved from different tanks. Sometimes even from same mother colonies.
They will show signs of bleaching when stronger than need light is offered. That could happen when temperature is higher than the acceptable average also. Or both!
Basically you need to keep your eyes open and aways start from the bottom of the tank with new zoas, when possible. The main reason for that is because 100% of the zoas you'll get will need to adapt to the new tank in every aspect, so that's the safest way to go at least in regards to the light.
Zoas are not that difficult to adapt to new light sources in most cases, and if you start from the bottom of the tank it should be fine as a basic suggestion. The time of adaptation is normally a month, I would say, depending on how different the light sources are (old and new lights).
Keep in mind that if your light is much more powerful than the light they were under before you'll need to shade them and gradually bring them out for your type of light, as we all should know by now.
Careful when you change bulbs too. They can be harmed with sudden changes.
In regards to getting brownish, that normally means low light and/or too much nutrients, as we already have observed too.
All that needs to be cared for.
There is no rules nor a magic portion you can lay on.
Every time you have a new zoa there will be a new beginning of observation period that will vary for each individual polyp or colony.
Hope that helps a bit.
Grandis.
A. Grandis
Active member
I understood "loosing color" as "bleaching", and "browning" as "getting darker" or "more zooxanthellae".
The "loose/fade" expression used by you was to me as "bleaching" also.
Just wanna make sure we are in the same page here.
I don't have the Purple Hornets, so I can't tell you that would do the job or not.
Besides there are differences between individual colonies and systems, so it comes down to the specific situation of each hobbyist.
There is much more to colors than only light and I was talking about only about "bleaching" and "browning" but...
If colors are getting weak, as the ring, yep, possibly the stronger light will help some.
Doesn't mean that the stronger light will almost be the solution, or that I'm almost sure that the stronger light will do it. Stronger lights can't be aways interpreted as the 100% solution for more colors on zoas.
If all the other polyps are doing fine, it could be other things and not the light.
It's basically impossible for anyone to judge this type of situation without carefully trying, once the question has a wide degree for the answers...
You could try though.
Please make sure that everything else we've been learning about adaptation, stability and consistency are in check!
I hope others to come here and give us some more tips, perhaps specifically about Purple Hornet zoas...
Grandis.
The "loose/fade" expression used by you was to me as "bleaching" also.
Just wanna make sure we are in the same page here.
I don't have the Purple Hornets, so I can't tell you that would do the job or not.
Besides there are differences between individual colonies and systems, so it comes down to the specific situation of each hobbyist.
There is much more to colors than only light and I was talking about only about "bleaching" and "browning" but...
If colors are getting weak, as the ring, yep, possibly the stronger light will help some.
Doesn't mean that the stronger light will almost be the solution, or that I'm almost sure that the stronger light will do it. Stronger lights can't be aways interpreted as the 100% solution for more colors on zoas.
If all the other polyps are doing fine, it could be other things and not the light.
It's basically impossible for anyone to judge this type of situation without carefully trying, once the question has a wide degree for the answers...
You could try though.
Please make sure that everything else we've been learning about adaptation, stability and consistency are in check!
I hope others to come here and give us some more tips, perhaps specifically about Purple Hornet zoas...
Grandis.
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