10 Gallon Seagrass Pico???

eddiesylas

Premium Member
So I have custom built a 16x8x18 10 gallon tank. Half of the bottom will be a sand bed the other half is bare bottom.

Specs:
8-10 lbs. of live rock
8-10 lbs of sand (with 1 can F.O.R.M.)
240 GPH flow
(39 Watt) LED fixture with 40 deg. lenses (PAR not yet known)

The most difficult challenge I see with this idea is nutrient control.

Is a 2 inch deep sand bed (8 x 8) enough for a few halophila plants? Or should I increase the depth (or size)?

I also thought that Shoal Grass could be fun given the dimensions of this small environment but it would be a long shot for success and I would like a more sure bet. If anyone has a thought on this...

Additionally, is there anyone who can put me in contact with someone growing halophila (or a plant that I could work with) that may be willing to sell a few to get me started? (I frequent Reef Cleaner's and Gulf Coast's sites with no luck yet).
 
So I have custom built a 16x8x18 10 gallon tank. Half of the bottom will be a sand bed the other half is bare bottom.

Specs:
8-10 lbs. of live rock
8-10 lbs of sand (with 1 can F.O.R.M.)
240 GPH flow
(39 Watt) LED fixture with 40 deg. lenses (PAR not yet known)

The most difficult challenge I see with this idea is nutrient control.

Is a 2 inch deep sand bed (8 x 8) enough for a few halophila plants? Or should I increase the depth (or size)?

I also thought that Shoal Grass could be fun given the dimensions of this small environment but it would be a long shot for success and I would like a more sure bet. If anyone has a thought on this...

Additionally, is there anyone who can put me in contact with someone growing halophila (or a plant that I could work with) that may be willing to sell a few to get me started? (I frequent Reef Cleaner's and Gulf Coast's sites with no luck yet).

Either genera of grasses would work. Two inches of substrate depth will work fine for both, as well--just be sure to prevent the plants from becoming root bound, as that is a real issue, IME. Overall, I'd consider the Halophila to be a bit more forgiving in all areas, but the shoal grasses aren't far behind. The Halophila also grow significantly faster if conditions are favorable, hence my warning on root/rhizome binding, especially in a smaller area. If you allow it, the Halophila will actually slow growth (and even choke out) other species, since growth beneath the substrate is deceptively fast and extensive. Personally, I try to thin it from time to time by removing whole rhizomes. It's disruptive to the sand bed, but there's not much of a choice in my case. This is still separate from plucking and trimming leaves, which should also be done on a more frequent basis.
 
How do you manage nutrients in your 25?

In terms of addition or reduction? As far as additions of nutrients go, I rely only on foods given to the fish and invertebrates to supply all needs, with very occasional iron additions. If PO4 is measurable, I'll add a bit of KNO3, which usually subsequently lowers PO4 since it stops limitation. This is extremely rare, though. As far as controlling any excess, I let the inhabitants and plants do that. I rely on strong growth to keep everything in check, which doesn't always result in the prettiest tank, especially when I go overboard on feeding. If you absolutely despise and fear the presence of microalgae (filamentous and otherwise), don't try doing it the same way.

Overall, seagrass grows well with this sort of system, but algae does well, also. The only other thing I do is when I remove rhizomes and disturb the sand bed, I'll add a bit of GFO to help curb the rise in PO4 that always results--algae will explode if I do not. I remove it a couple of weeks later. Carbon is used whenever possible, since the grasses release a good deal of yellowing compounds when the leaves decay.
 
Have fun! Can't wait to see your pictures. I've been hoping more people will set up seagrass tanks.
I have the best luck when I used old sand mixed with mud(Fji and Mericle Mud).
 
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