1000 Gallon System...The long road is almost over

It's best to let the bacteria grow and get ammonia down to zero on their own.

Awesome build btw, I'm following along!
 
A month would be a safe bet and a nice round number. Now that you're seeing ammonia increase, you'll want to monitor your nitrate levels. Once ammonia is no longer detectable and the nitrates have sort of peaked, do your big water change.
 
Every fish and coral should be quarantined for at least 4-6 weeks before being added to the display tank anyways. I wouldn't start water changes until the amonia peaks, the nitrites peak, and then the nitrates start to drop - OR - you could just buy a few bottles of one of the instant bacteria starters.

Dave.M
 
I'm going to be moving my existing fish first and I'm planning on doing TTM to them first...so I'm trying to plan the 12ish days that takes to when the tank will be ready.

I could do the bacteria in a bottle thing, but I really have no experience with those things and don't know if they are good/bad. Des the tank still cycle if you use them? What's the advantage to doing them?
 
My experience is with Instant Ocean Bio-SPIRA. You purchase enough bottles for your size of tank, turn off your skimmer and follow the instructions. Your system is ready for fish in a few hours.

Dave.M
 
My experience is with Instant Ocean Bio-SPIRA. You purchase enough bottles for your size of tank, turn off your skimmer and follow the instructions. Your system is ready for fish in a few hours.

Dave.M


It doesn't completely start the bio filter. It still takes a couple days to fully "cycle"
I've cycled 3 QT's and my DT and that's just IMO And ime
 
Well I've decided to let the cycle work naturally for now. I started it about a week ago, and the ammonia is at 0.5+ today. I'll let nature work it's course. I still have a few items to finish up anyway:

1) Re-plumb the salt water/rodi water tanks due to a small leak
2) Install the Tunze laser water top-off system
3) Re-plumb the closed loop discharge line (messed up the connection point)
4) fish a few cosmetic items in the equipment room
5) get power heads for the QT tanks
6) figure out the design for the cabinetry for the tank
7) quiet down the drains in my office
8) write-up a maintenance schedule for the tank
9) hook up the reactors
10) listen to you guys yell at me if I decide to keep it a FOWL tank...lol
 
In addition to my existing fish, here is the list for the tank:

Fish for New Office Tank

- Emperor Angelfish
- Blue Face Angelfish
- French Angelfish
- Koran Angelfish
- Regal Angelfish
- Masked Swallowtail Angelfish
- Harlequin Tusk – Australia
- Stars & Stripes Puffer
- Dog Face Puffer
- Porcupine Puffer
- Yellow Tangs – Bunches
- Clown Tang
- Achilles Tang
- Wrasse’s
- Lyretail Anthias - Bunches
- Niger Trigger
- Crosshatch Trigger – Matted Pair
- Magnificent Foxface
- Butterflyfish – Need to look into which ones
- Kissing Fish (no idea what their name is)


This tank is going to push all the limits of quantity of fish (the main reason I spent so much time and money on the equipment room). Anyone see any glaring problems?
 
Another question...I need to get a power head for each of the 75 gallon QT tanks. I was thinking of going with a vortech mp10 for each. I like the ability to dial up and down the output easily. At $200+ each they are rather expensive, but I'm trying to do things right the first time...and only one time :)

Thoughts? Overkill?
 
Well I like the fish list, especially the angels. This looks like a FOWLR list to me, but I'm sure you could put some softies and maybe a few lps in the tank. It's hard to know what they'll pick at and what they'll leave alone. But in the end, you'll probably find it much "easier" to avoid SPS in a large tank. That's what I would do in a bigger tank anyway. :0)
 
if your looking for power heads for a qt tank try using jabeo pumps you can dial them in also I mean there just qt tanks. save the money for awesome fish or corals
 
As somebody who usually avoids the Chinese brands, I second the jabaos on the QT tanks. They aren't critical and you don't need to save the interior space in the display. Save your pennies and the worry of aligning dry and wet sides.
 
Ok, cycling question. It's been 15 years since I cycled a tank :)

I put about 6 frozen shrimp in the tank and I've been throwing in flake food each day. Ammonia is just starting to rise (about 0.5ish). Someone remind me what to do? All the rock is dry, dry sand and new water :)

Tell me if this is right...let ammonia bloom to about 2.0 and then start water changes. Get levels back down to 0 then I can add fish? I am NOT putting in a fish to help with the cycling b/ I don't want any ich in this tank.


You could always add some Prime if you want to introduce a bacteria suppliment. With all dry rock it could help. Otherwise your cycle sounds like its headed the right way
 
What kind of lighting are using using on your DT?

So funny thing...Originally I intended to go FOWLR, so last summer I ordered 6 5' Current Orbit Marine LED strip light units. Got them at a great price during some sale at Doc F&S. Now that I'm probably going to be putting in corals, I'm sure I need new lights :headwally::headwally::headwally:

I'll use the ones I have for a bit and then look at getting better units. Not sure what to use, but they will have to work with an APEX and be LED (Have to keep electric bill down)...it never ends
 
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