100g cube build

[Chaka]

Hey all,

I am starting (well halfway through) my new 100 gallon cube. I am trying to do this one right from my previous 100g long build. I built the tank myself out of acrylic. This tank will have a closed loop system with a reeflo dart powering it. I will have a refugium, algae scrubber, and skimmer (super octopus xp-2000) incorporated into the filtration. I will not be running any pellets or media due to the algae scrubber. Tank dimensions are 30"x30"x24"(so a little under 100g). closed loop will consist of two 1.5" intakes, and eight .75" outlets. Loc-line will be used with the bottom having regular nozzles and the back wall outlets having 3" flare nozzles. I have a hy-7000 water blaster which will be my return pump. I will gate it down to slow water through filtration. I run RO/DI water in my current system, and will be continuing with that (contribute this fact to most of my success). I have 100lbs of reef saver rock that is seeded and has Coraline algae on it. Stocking is as follows:


1 torch coral
1 GTBA
zoas
various mushrooms
duncan
leather coral
2 percs
red firefish
1 green spotted mandrin
(stocking is a little low just been trying to make sure tank is set up and the way I like it)

I will post some pics of my build. I already welded the acrylic and drilled holes. This time took my time and sanded every edge to 1200 grit. This made for an awesome weld with very minimal to zero bubbles. Tank is eurobraced as well.

Now for a couple of questions:

1. Would I be able to keep a Tomini tang in my tank? I will maximize swimming area with aquascaping.

2. What are the thoughts on the best substrate? I usually go with 1-2mm size.

3. Anything else you all can think of while I am building, so I can incorporate it now?

Thanks,

Chaka

 

[lacosta28]

Welcome to the forums.

One thing you might want to consider is putting the lighting eggcrate on the bottom of the tank prior to putting your sand and rocks in. This is to prevent the rocks from having a sharp point against the bottom glass. I know there are a few more things I wish I would have done when I built my tank. If I remember more I will let you know.

 

[Gomer]

1. Might be ok as they are one of the smaller tangs
2) depends on your goals. If you'll eventually go SPS, I'd go bare bottom. If substrate 1-2 is about what I have now.
3) ATO/Dosing pumps (or reactor)/Controller/

 

[Chaka]

Lacosta: Yeah thanks, I forgot to put in there I run plenum which has egg-crate.

Gomer: I do have an ATO, I will be eventually going to a Neptune Apex, and am currently dosing Alk and calcium.

Why would you go bare bottom for sps? I do want to have the upper portion of my tank sps dominated, but is there a reason for the bare bottom? nitrates and phosphates will not be a problem because of the algae scrubber.

Thanks for the replies and if anything else comes to you all let me know.

 

[Chaka]

Pictures

Pictures

Here are the pics of my current tank, and then my future cube:

Had water on the acrylic

Now the new tank

Let me know what you think

 

[Chronicj7]

Looks. Bad. A$$.

That's my dream tank style. Good work so far man.

How much did the acrylic cost you and did you pick it up locally?

 

[reign]

Sweet setup...
I just got a similar size tank yesterday from glasscages...just about 10" shorter..
I like the returns on the bottom I had the same thing on a 180 I had some years ago..
I think gomer is saying that if you want a sps dominated tank having high flow can be problematic with substrate...although splitting a dart 8x reduces the flow on each cl output so much it would not be an issue..Substrate tends to hold nutrients and if you want a low nutrient system eventually the substrate leach organics back..Kinda like how the old school plenum was the way to go then "ticking time bomb" syndrome then the DSB crew came in and it was "nutrients and phosphate leaching:
Looks really good ..I am about to build my stand ...thinking wood frame and "skin" it with wood..Did you make that steel stand yourself?
Are you planning on leds for the new tank as well?

 

[Chaka]

chronic: I bought it from a place in salt lake city (delvies plastics). they sell a Mexico based company cell cast acrylic called chem-cast. I got all the acrylic 1/2" thick for 330.00 dollars. which is like 300 dollars cheaper than anywhere else.

Reign: do you think splitting the dart 8 times is too much? the output is a 1.5" reduced to 8 x .75" outlets. I want a lot of flow I can get another one to do 4 and 4. What do you think?

I did build my stand myself, and yes i am planning on having 96 leds on this setup.

 

[reign]

my similar experience is hat the dart 4300ghp is a lot but when split to eight returns it would be 537 and sum change per each return..If you were to get a OM to rotate/switch these returns the output for each would dramatically increase between rotations for a shorter duration and give a more random flow..Maybe something to consider..I had 4 genxpcx 40 split and when split I did not like how low and laminar the flow was..You could have the 8rtns split so 4 would be on at a time..
So doing the whole meanwell /Cree setup on this setup?
Just curious I'm getting a small setup for a nano just to see if I like it..
Love to see the progress!!
Keep us updated

 

[Chaka]

my similar experience is hat the dart 4300ghp is a lot but when split to eight returns it would be 537 and sum change per each return..If you were to get a OM to rotate/switch these returns the output for each would dramatically increase between rotations for a shorter duration and give a more random flow..Maybe something to consider..I had 4 genxpcx 40 split and when split I did not like how low and laminar the flow was..You could have the 8rtns split so 4 would be on at a time..
So doing the whole meanwell /Cree setup on this setup?
Just curious I'm getting a small setup for a nano just to see if I like it..
Love to see the progress!!
Keep us updated

cool thanks for the info on the flow...i will look into a om device.

As of now I am planning a cree/meanwell setup. The current one is a meanwell cree setup. I would not mind doing the buckpucks, but they seem to be more work and about the same cost. Plus I would need to buy a power-supply which would make the buckpucks more in the long run. They both have about the same control. I currently have my heatsinks (4 6x9 heatsinks). Each heatsink will hold 24 leds. I have heard of people using high voltage high amp drivers. I might consider this, but the chance of me killing myself goes up dramatically

 

[Chaka]

Just thought of something else... does anyone have any experience with surge devices? Would that help with countering laminar flow?

 

[reign]

just the boreman one in the corals book..