Note: This is a repost because my previous one didn't get posted? Not sure what happened there.
TLDR:
I want to build a 10G Refugium using a CPR CS90 Overflow box and Cobalt MJ1200 as a return pump. Anything else I need to be aware of? My main tank is is a 40G breeder.
Long version:
I am a newbie to this hobby. I just started three weeks ago with ZERO experience in this hobby beyond just my capacity to learn really quick. I've made extensive research but as usual there are things better resolved when asked directly.
Currently here's my current situation:
- I have a 40G breeder that I got from Petco. Too bad I missed the $1/1G deal (I could have save an $50).
- I have 70 lb worth of carribean live sand
- Seeded with 20 lbs ish live rock (the ones with Coralline Algae)
- To speed up the cycling of the tank I dosed it up with Prodibio's Startup. I currently have a Blood Orange Clownfish and Skunk Cleaner running around, 4 Nassarius snails and 1 Turbo. I do dip acflimate
- I also have a thriving Green Star Polyps. He is really thriving with emphasis.
- Dual filter system for redundancy with Aquaclear 70 and Fluval 306
- I have a 9004 DC Tunze Skimmer (I ordered the AC instead of the DC by mistake but should be functionally equivalent). It's still in its break in stage
- Dual Hydor Koralia 850 Pumps placed on opposite corners controlled by Smart Wave which runs the pumps alternately
- I have two Kessil 160WE led lights at 5 to 8 inches above the water with 35% intensity (accurately set using the Kessil controller). I still have to schedule the daily program
- I had been testing diligently with the API saltwater and reef kit
- I use RODI water from an LFS. I had to manually drive and pickup gallons of water. I ordered an RODI buddie and see if I can set it up this week. If not, I can live up with the old process
- I got a poly-filter and phos-zorb running on custom filter net (which I will replace with the media reactor from Two Fishes. It should arrive this week)
- I ordered an Aquamaxx reactor with strip lights for chaeto reactor so I can have a natural nutrient export filtration
This is where my question comes in. I initially want to build a 20G sump. However the stand I am using from Lowes (it has 4000 lb load capacity) only has 18 inches clearance on its first deck. Well it's like this because when I added the 40 G tank on the 3rd deck I prioritized the convenience of reachability for maintenance but didn't realized I compromised the 1st deck. (2nd deck has 4 to 5 inches clearance for the cables and other tools).
So now I went to Petco and got a 10G and 20G to see which would fit. Both would fit except the 20G has a 16 and 3/4 height and that means I have less than 2 inches to put on things. Not practical. So 10G is the viable option unless there's 20G with the height of a 10G?
Now I am on an apartment. I don't have basement and my space is limited. With the 10G I am planning to house algae with copepods. It might be redundant with the chaeto reactor but for the sake of argument, let's say I still want to do this because that extra 10G will still add to my 40G volume. More volume means better control with the water parameters.
So I got a 10G and learn online I need a return pump. I decided to go with the MJ1200 with 1100GPH ish value. I'd probably need a valve to tune it down? Yes or no? What valve should I be using?
I don't want to drill my tank. Either way that's late already. So I am going with an overflow box. CS90 looks like an option. Why can't I just use an airline tube here or a hose to go with the refugium?
Bonus question, I can put two 10G at the bottom deck. Can I setup two refugiums and connect the two 10Gs by some sort of pump mechanism?
Again sorry if I have too many questions. I am still new to this hobby and I am sure there will be mistakes.
Edit: I have watched a Youtube detailing all the perils of HOB Overflow boxes. Scary stuff indeed if you messed up. Drilled tanks for overflow seems safer but again that's too late for me. I kinda think the risk is the same as driving in a motorcycle. The risk of death/maimed is higher than a car?
TLDR:
I want to build a 10G Refugium using a CPR CS90 Overflow box and Cobalt MJ1200 as a return pump. Anything else I need to be aware of? My main tank is is a 40G breeder.
Long version:
I am a newbie to this hobby. I just started three weeks ago with ZERO experience in this hobby beyond just my capacity to learn really quick. I've made extensive research but as usual there are things better resolved when asked directly.
Currently here's my current situation:
- I have a 40G breeder that I got from Petco. Too bad I missed the $1/1G deal (I could have save an $50).
- I have 70 lb worth of carribean live sand
- Seeded with 20 lbs ish live rock (the ones with Coralline Algae)
- To speed up the cycling of the tank I dosed it up with Prodibio's Startup. I currently have a Blood Orange Clownfish and Skunk Cleaner running around, 4 Nassarius snails and 1 Turbo. I do dip acflimate
- I also have a thriving Green Star Polyps. He is really thriving with emphasis.
- Dual filter system for redundancy with Aquaclear 70 and Fluval 306
- I have a 9004 DC Tunze Skimmer (I ordered the AC instead of the DC by mistake but should be functionally equivalent). It's still in its break in stage
- Dual Hydor Koralia 850 Pumps placed on opposite corners controlled by Smart Wave which runs the pumps alternately
- I have two Kessil 160WE led lights at 5 to 8 inches above the water with 35% intensity (accurately set using the Kessil controller). I still have to schedule the daily program
- I had been testing diligently with the API saltwater and reef kit
- I use RODI water from an LFS. I had to manually drive and pickup gallons of water. I ordered an RODI buddie and see if I can set it up this week. If not, I can live up with the old process
- I got a poly-filter and phos-zorb running on custom filter net (which I will replace with the media reactor from Two Fishes. It should arrive this week)
- I ordered an Aquamaxx reactor with strip lights for chaeto reactor so I can have a natural nutrient export filtration
This is where my question comes in. I initially want to build a 20G sump. However the stand I am using from Lowes (it has 4000 lb load capacity) only has 18 inches clearance on its first deck. Well it's like this because when I added the 40 G tank on the 3rd deck I prioritized the convenience of reachability for maintenance but didn't realized I compromised the 1st deck. (2nd deck has 4 to 5 inches clearance for the cables and other tools).
So now I went to Petco and got a 10G and 20G to see which would fit. Both would fit except the 20G has a 16 and 3/4 height and that means I have less than 2 inches to put on things. Not practical. So 10G is the viable option unless there's 20G with the height of a 10G?
Now I am on an apartment. I don't have basement and my space is limited. With the 10G I am planning to house algae with copepods. It might be redundant with the chaeto reactor but for the sake of argument, let's say I still want to do this because that extra 10G will still add to my 40G volume. More volume means better control with the water parameters.
So I got a 10G and learn online I need a return pump. I decided to go with the MJ1200 with 1100GPH ish value. I'd probably need a valve to tune it down? Yes or no? What valve should I be using?
I don't want to drill my tank. Either way that's late already. So I am going with an overflow box. CS90 looks like an option. Why can't I just use an airline tube here or a hose to go with the refugium?
Bonus question, I can put two 10G at the bottom deck. Can I setup two refugiums and connect the two 10Gs by some sort of pump mechanism?
Again sorry if I have too many questions. I am still new to this hobby and I am sure there will be mistakes.
Edit: I have watched a Youtube detailing all the perils of HOB Overflow boxes. Scary stuff indeed if you messed up. Drilled tanks for overflow seems safer but again that's too late for me. I kinda think the risk is the same as driving in a motorcycle. The risk of death/maimed is higher than a car?
