10k and 20k= nice color?

wrassie86

wrassie86

Premium Member
Just went from 2x400w 20k to 2x250w 10k need some blue

Choices are adding 2x175w 20k running in the same 16inch spider reflectors as my 10k (to try to avoid color banding)

or i was thinking a 4x54w tek retro running all blue bulbs.

This is on a AGA 120g mostly sps tank.

TIA
 
I would go with the Tek. I had one of the fellow members of my club tried to run two bulbs in the same reflector and he still got banding.
 
Hmm,how did he have the bulbs set up?I figured if they were side by side a few inches apart there would not be any banding.And banding if they were end to end.the tek seems the best option power wise.but 4 MH is just easy:)
 
They were in custom built Lumniarchs. SE bulbs pointing end to end. He is RC member Mwood if you want to PM him. He got sick of it and ended up running 2 of the same bulbs in the same reflector.
 
Blending halides to achieve a 12k look can be done, but it's not as easy as putting them next to each other. I've tried it two ways. First, I put them in line with each other parallel to the tank and in the same reflector. Second I placed them next to each other in a lumenarc. Both scenarios resulted in colorbands.

What you almost need is 2 20k's for each 10k. One 20k on each side of a 10k. That would balance the color, but that's a lot of halides.

Another option is to get 3 20k's for the 2 10k's all perpendicular to the tank. But the center brace will get in the way and may melt.

A better option is to get Pheonix 14k DE lights rather than the 10k's.

Or better yet is to look into florescent lighting to supplement the halides.

PS, it takes a lot of 20k light to offset a 10k. Look in my gallery. I have a pic with both 400w radiums and 400w xm10k's on, and it looks white with no blue.
 
Another option would be to get 2 20k and 2 10k halides of the same wattage, give each lamp it own perpendicular reflector, and play with angling the reflector toward each other to better blend the light. You may also trim the reflectors where they are near each other.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8010790#post8010790 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mwood
Another option would be to get 2 20k and 2 10k halides of the same wattage, give each lamp it own perpendicular reflector, and play with angling the reflector toward each other to better blend the light. You may also trim the reflectors where they are near each other.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a pretty good idea,but using alittle more power than i would like.I'm actually trying to reduce lighting cost on the tank as much as possible with out taking away from it. and it still looking nice.
I have 440w of VHO but looking to reduce that cost also.4 MH's sounded easy.but i guesse T5 for supplements would be the way to go.thanks again

Ps i like the table tank pretty cool :)
 
I use 2 XM 10Ks and 2 Radiums (all 250s). You really need a tank at least 24" wide to get it right.

Put them end-to-end pointing at each other, perpendicular to the long (viewing) side of the tank. One set on each side of the center brace. Use parabolic reflectors and mount them across from each other. In a 120, they will overlap slightly, but no big deal.


You would have:

----10K-------20K----

----20K-------10K----

No lines at all. Color is great, but advisable to keep rock structure low to ensure light can spread well. I also add some actinic. I have yet to see a lighting scheme I like better.
 
lumenarc reflectors are designed with the center axis point in mind. If you move the bulb at all you throw the whole principal that this reflector was designed on.
If your going to mix halides in reflectors you should use parabolics like G-money stated.Rotating K . Generally to get a good blend of 20K and 10K you need to remember the 20's have half the PAR as 10K in a general Statement.

So if you use 250 Watt 10K's Mix it with a 400 watt 20K..

I havent seen the Radium 250 watt 20K in awhile so I cant remember how they look..... But i know with the XM's the blend very nice with a 10K or even a Iwasaki 6500... ( Still my favorite bulb..)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8023521#post8023521 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by G-money
I use 2 XM 10Ks and 2 Radiums (all 250s). You really need a tank at least 24" wide to get it right.

Put them end-to-end pointing at each other, perpendicular to the long (viewing) side of the tank. One set on each side of the center brace. Use parabolic reflectors and mount them across from each other. In a 120, they will overlap slightly, but no big deal.


You would have:

----10K-------20K----

----20K-------10K----

No lines at all. Color is great, but advisable to keep rock structure low to ensure light can spread well. I also add some actinic. I have yet to see a lighting scheme I like better.
Click to expand...

G-money What are you running for a photo period?how long on each light?Are 250w 20k bulbs even a enough to run a short 10k period? also if your periods are staggered do you have any problems getting the later bulbs to fire?
 
Banding is when your reflectors direct your light in a upside down V and create deliniation( SP) in your halide bulbs. So you see where the bulbs are seperated above the tank actually in the tank..

If the tank is too long for the amount of bulbs its VERY easy to see it. each halide should be used per 2 foot centered.. so on a 4 foot tank the center of the bulbs should be at 1 foot and the other at 3 foot. If they are perpendicular to the tank and you use the same kelvin bulbs you will have whats called " Hot spots " where the lines coming out of the reflectors meet each other.... light meters will show this very well..

i had a diagram showing this and it was easy to understand . leme see if i can dig it up
 
NuclearReefs

Simple question i have yet get answered.do you know if there is ever a problem getting staggered halides to light? say for instance the ends of the bulbs are almost touching, would bulb (A) started 2hrs earler cause bulb (B) to get to hot to fire? I think the answer is no,but was not sure either.i remember seeing some older threads where there were problems.
 
I never had problems with bulbs firing, but I've always had at least 4-6 inches between bulbs.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8026800#post8026800 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DaddyJax
Just curious as to what banding is? I am running 3 250w 20k with 2 175w 10k in between and LOVE it!!
Click to expand...

Are the pics in your gallery from this lighting scheme?also what hrs are you running the light?If you have a full tank shot please post it and some details.What your doing sounds good to me i just wonder if i would get enough light to the bottom for my clam.
 
After a bit more research, i made the choice to go with 4x250w bulbs.2x20k running for 8 hrs and 2x10k hours to be determined.I just got it all running today, so i set the 10k's for 1hr for now and will ramp them up as needed.
And really i must say it looks good with all the bulbs on, the tank is a nice white with little blue since the 10ks totaly kill the 20k's:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8027021#post8027021 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wrassie86
NuclearReefs

Simple question i have yet get answered.do you know if there is ever a problem getting staggered halides to light? say for instance the ends of the bulbs are almost touching, would bulb (A) started 2hrs earler cause bulb (B) to get to hot to fire? I think the answer is no,but was not sure either.i remember seeing some older threads where there were problems.
Click to expand...

The capacitors inside the bulbs will not fire if they are to hot. This is proven when you shut off a halide and try to fire it back up.Some can take up to 15 minutes before they will fire again.. The capacitor is designed that way so you have to wait til it cools before re firing it.. if you look at the inner envelope on the halide bulbs 90% of them have a lead to the capacitor im talking about.. so end to end bulbs isnt a good idea unless you have fans pulling/pushing right behind the mogul sockets..
 
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