125 Gal in wall project... tank is in :)
- Thread starter Gawdly
- Start date
doody said:
Yes, 72" 125gal AGA.
I didn't measure exactly when I marked the holes. I used the bulkheads to check for clearance of the frame and overflows, etc. then made sure placement matched on both sides. The 1 2" drain is basically dead center. Bottom 2 1" returns are in the corner roughly an inch up and an inch out from the overflow. Top 2 1" returns are roughly half way in between the bottom returns and the drain plus an inch or two closer to the drain horizontallyand a couple inches down from the top frame.
I don't propose the "Just eyeball it" method to everyone but with my art background I tend to have better luck when I start that way, then measure for consistency.
I can't believe that no one has asked about my "carpet protector trick" yet... so I'm going to tell you anyway.
I have painted tank backs before and always ended up scratching the paint. I have been trying to find a sturdy and watertight solution since my first tank.
I found this thick plastic adhesive sheeting at Home Depot in the carpet section. Is is carpet protector for use when you are renovating, etc and are doing messy work over nice carpet. It comes in a roll and is tacky on one side (outside of roll). You lay the roll down and roll it across the carpet you want to protect and it sticks. The roll was more than wide enough to cover the back of my tank in one strip.
I painted the back of the tank and let it dry. Then I rolled the carpet sheeting across the back tacking it in the center and smoothing it to the outsides. Then I used a razor blade to trim along the frame on the top and bottom removing the excess sheeting.
Viola... the back is protected from me scuffing it as I move back and forth in the tight space behind the tank and is sealed up to the frame top and bottom so no moisture between tank and sealing material. You can see it in the picture one post up.
I hope this is helpful to others. It has been a god-send in my situation.
I have painted tank backs before and always ended up scratching the paint. I have been trying to find a sturdy and watertight solution since my first tank.
I found this thick plastic adhesive sheeting at Home Depot in the carpet section. Is is carpet protector for use when you are renovating, etc and are doing messy work over nice carpet. It comes in a roll and is tacky on one side (outside of roll). You lay the roll down and roll it across the carpet you want to protect and it sticks. The roll was more than wide enough to cover the back of my tank in one strip.
I painted the back of the tank and let it dry. Then I rolled the carpet sheeting across the back tacking it in the center and smoothing it to the outsides. Then I used a razor blade to trim along the frame on the top and bottom removing the excess sheeting.
Viola... the back is protected from me scuffing it as I move back and forth in the tight space behind the tank and is sealed up to the frame top and bottom so no moisture between tank and sealing material. You can see it in the picture one post up.
I hope this is helpful to others. It has been a god-send in my situation.
doody
New member
Great Idea about theat protection.
I'm planning flow for my 125. Also 72"
I wanna drill for a closed loop like you did. I'm just wondering if those hole Sizes will do for me. I plan on useing The Sequence Reeflow Dart for the closed loop portion. I'm also wanting to drill my two returns from my sump into the back as well, but I'm afraid that might be to many holes in the back. What do you think?
BTW, my 125 is 1/2" thick glass. I'm not sur if that makes a differance as to how many holes can saftly be drilled in the back.
I'm planning flow for my 125. Also 72"
I wanna drill for a closed loop like you did. I'm just wondering if those hole Sizes will do for me. I plan on useing The Sequence Reeflow Dart for the closed loop portion. I'm also wanting to drill my two returns from my sump into the back as well, but I'm afraid that might be to many holes in the back. What do you think?
BTW, my 125 is 1/2" thick glass. I'm not sur if that makes a differance as to how many holes can saftly be drilled in the back.
Doody,
I too am using the Dart for my closed loop. It will be plumbed through an Oceans Motions 4-way to the returns. I haven't bought the OM unit yet so I have no idea how well I'm going to flow with the 1"returns. I was initially going with more holes but scaled back a bit to simplify pumbing outside the tank. I think I'll be good but can't wait to test.
I also have a Dart for my sump return. Man is that overkill... I have my return valves cranked down almost shut and still have more than enough flow through my sump. I chose the Dart for my sump return as well for a couple reasons.
1. Future expansion - I intend to feed my Calcium Reator, chiler and possibly another tank in another room off it in the future.
2. Swapability - With only one pump type in the system, if one goes down I can hot swap the other in its place to limp by until I can have another shipped in.
As for number of hole the glass can support, I have no idea. However I do have a 29gal sump with 1 2" bulkhead and 3 1" bulkheads in one end. No problems so far but it has only been a couple days. I would think you could go with a lot more holes than I did in the back of a 125 but do a search on here and find more examples before you go nuts.
I too am using the Dart for my closed loop. It will be plumbed through an Oceans Motions 4-way to the returns. I haven't bought the OM unit yet so I have no idea how well I'm going to flow with the 1"returns. I was initially going with more holes but scaled back a bit to simplify pumbing outside the tank. I think I'll be good but can't wait to test.
I also have a Dart for my sump return. Man is that overkill... I have my return valves cranked down almost shut and still have more than enough flow through my sump. I chose the Dart for my sump return as well for a couple reasons.
1. Future expansion - I intend to feed my Calcium Reator, chiler and possibly another tank in another room off it in the future.
2. Swapability - With only one pump type in the system, if one goes down I can hot swap the other in its place to limp by until I can have another shipped in.
As for number of hole the glass can support, I have no idea. However I do have a 29gal sump with 1 2" bulkhead and 3 1" bulkheads in one end. No problems so far but it has only been a couple days. I would think you could go with a lot more holes than I did in the back of a 125 but do a search on here and find more examples before you go nuts.
doody
New member
Thanks for the advice. Yeah a dart for closed loop and return is a bit much, but cyou have decent reasons for doing so. I was gonna use the om 4way as well.
I was gonna use the GEN-X PCX55 for the return. Its rated at 1200gph. I was gonna split this to two eductors, but not sure now. As I hear these eductors can double the output of the pump, and that might be overkill. What do you think?
I was gonna use the GEN-X PCX55 for the return. Its rated at 1200gph. I was gonna split this to two eductors, but not sure now. As I hear these eductors can double the output of the pump, and that might be overkill. What do you think?
I've always heard that 600 - 800 GPH flow through the sump is about optimal for a compromise between flow, bubble control and leaves the option to use a refugeum compartment in the sumpââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¦ This also varies with sump size of course; this assumes a 30+ or so gallon sump. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m no expert but Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢d say that, accounting for head loss, the pump you listed is probably about right alone assuming a similar sized sump to above.
Also no harm in over sizing the pump and throttling it back (within reason) on the pressure side to allow for future expansion.
Don't know much about eductors.
Also no harm in over sizing the pump and throttling it back (within reason) on the pressure side to allow for future expansion.
Don't know much about eductors.
doody
New member
Well, if I can get it under the stand, I'd like to go with a 55g sump. I might add a compartment for some macro + LR. However, if I do that, I'd just run a tee off the return to the fuge part for lower gph.
As far as eductors, do a search. It seems to me they're just a plastic nozzel at the ends of your return lines that kinda act like Seio's in the way they disperse flow. I also read they can double to triple the output from a pump. I've seen a couple DIY ones, but i've got more to learn about them.
As far as eductors, do a search. It seems to me they're just a plastic nozzel at the ends of your return lines that kinda act like Seio's in the way they disperse flow. I also read they can double to triple the output from a pump. I've seen a couple DIY ones, but i've got more to learn about them.
doody
New member
I've gotta dumb question. After you install the plumbing in the bulkheads, what do you do on the wet/inside of the tank? Do you run pvc from the bulkheads to point your flow, or just leave it alone at the bulkhead?
Does that even make any sense?
Got any closer pic of the inside?
Does that even make any sense?
Got any closer pic of the inside?
sharemaster
New member
Good work coming along nicely.
Hey Doody. 
Next step is to finish plumbing this weekend. Just need to glue everything. I also need to paint the PVC on the back wall black so it's less noticeable.
Once plumbing is done, I'll run the closed loop along with the return with test water just to make sure there are no leaks, problems with flow, etc. Once I feel good that everything is solid (most likely next weekend), I'll drain the test water and start filling it with RO water, mix in the salt, add the sand and wait for the cloudiness to clear.
I think I'm going to use mostly dead base rock from a local fish place (cost and time) for the base rockwork. I'll also transfer over my 60 odd lbs of live rock from my 55gal and start watching for the cycle.
While the tank cycles I'll start working on my auto top-off and buy some lights. I'm planning to go all T5 lighting.
Next step is to finish plumbing this weekend. Just need to glue everything. I also need to paint the PVC on the back wall black so it's less noticeable.
Once plumbing is done, I'll run the closed loop along with the return with test water just to make sure there are no leaks, problems with flow, etc. Once I feel good that everything is solid (most likely next weekend), I'll drain the test water and start filling it with RO water, mix in the salt, add the sand and wait for the cloudiness to clear.
I think I'm going to use mostly dead base rock from a local fish place (cost and time) for the base rockwork. I'll also transfer over my 60 odd lbs of live rock from my 55gal and start watching for the cycle.
While the tank cycles I'll start working on my auto top-off and buy some lights. I'm planning to go all T5 lighting.
It's been a little while so it's time for an update.
I tested the flow...
Looked good to me
Then I drained and put the sand in. I picked up the sand a while back from a place that said it was southdown sand in unmarked bags. Seems like it's the right size and material. Next time I do this I will rinse the sand before it goes in the tank. I get a lot of tiny particles that stay suspended once swept up off the sand bed. Would have been nice to remove those before they went in the tank.
Next is lights...
I tested the flow...
Looked good to me
Then I drained and put the sand in. I picked up the sand a while back from a place that said it was southdown sand in unmarked bags. Seems like it's the right size and material. Next time I do this I will rinse the sand before it goes in the tank. I get a lot of tiny particles that stay suspended once swept up off the sand bed. Would have been nice to remove those before they went in the tank.
Next is lights...
