Herbert T. Kornfeld
In Memoriam
NOT A NEW IDEA. I made one years ago based on this guys web page...http://www.nd.edu/~lego/grp2/www/reef_diy.htm
$15 PVC Overflow
- Thread starter tboned
- Start date
pvtschultz
New member
You need the back side plumbing to maintain the siphon over the top of the tank so that when the power goes out and comes back on, it will self start again. Personally I think that it is a great idea and am thinking about building one since there really isn't that much to lose. My current overflow box doesn't skim the surface very well so I would like to build one and see if it works better than the one that I am using now.
And Freed, thank you for not going off. I reread my comment and it could have been misplaced/directed. Personally when I buy my final tank, it will be a reef-ready tank so I don't have to worry about overflows anymore.
And Freed, thank you for not going off. I reread my comment and it could have been misplaced/directed. Personally when I buy my final tank, it will be a reef-ready tank so I don't have to worry about overflows anymore.
it works but the flow was very slow. I did not have a cap in the vent just stuck my finger in. It never really picked up. mine is all 3/4 class 200Freed said:
It seems to me you should definitely glue everything together. If it came apart at F for instance the siphon would continue to drain water from your tank but it wouldn't be connected to the lines going to your sump. It would probably be ok to leave the parts inside the tank un-glued, like A and B, but the rest should definitely be secure.
Perhaps someone with at least a little aquarium experience can back me up or tell me I'm full of hot air.
pvtschultz
New member
Does anyone have a pic/or could get a quick pic of one of these on their tank (say a 4' tank like a 55, 75, 90, etc, or a larger tank) so I could get an idea of the intrusiveness. I already have a lot of PVC plumbing in mine and it really doesn't bother me as long as I know that it is for the better good of my under-water friends, but I still like pics though.
bluenosedshellback
New member
The one thing that is missing is the anti siphon valve that is inserted in a drilled hole on top. This allows me to suck out the air bubbles that collect there. You can also run an airline from the valve to a power head so that the suction continuously pulls air bubbles out. These are very stable.
These things look great painted black. I break the gloss with pvc primer then spray with vinyl spray found in auto parts stores. Just let it cure for several days. The last one I did took a week before the smell went away. Inverts grow on it with no problem.
DEMOVID@HOTMAIL.COM
__________________
Great idea concerning using a powerhead with the air hose run up into the u tube. This could be used so that upon return of power the pwr head will draw the air out of the siphon tube as the tank fills back up. The only stipulations i can see as of right now would be that the powerhead would have to be low enough in the tank to remain submerged during the power outage. This way when power came back on the powerhead would immediately start drawing a suction from the air tubing to pull the air out as the siphon began to fill with water. The second issue would be probably putting a check valve downstream of the overflow piping to allow the power head to draw a suction on this section of piping (since the outlet of the drain is an open ended pipe). The last issue is ensuring the power head is capable of drawing enough air out of the siphon to get the siphon flowing before the tank overflows. More of an explanation in detail with drawings to come, this is just to get some discussion flowing the subject.
These things look great painted black. I break the gloss with pvc primer then spray with vinyl spray found in auto parts stores. Just let it cure for several days. The last one I did took a week before the smell went away. Inverts grow on it with no problem.
DEMOVID@HOTMAIL.COM
__________________
Great idea concerning using a powerhead with the air hose run up into the u tube. This could be used so that upon return of power the pwr head will draw the air out of the siphon tube as the tank fills back up. The only stipulations i can see as of right now would be that the powerhead would have to be low enough in the tank to remain submerged during the power outage. This way when power came back on the powerhead would immediately start drawing a suction from the air tubing to pull the air out as the siphon began to fill with water. The second issue would be probably putting a check valve downstream of the overflow piping to allow the power head to draw a suction on this section of piping (since the outlet of the drain is an open ended pipe). The last issue is ensuring the power head is capable of drawing enough air out of the siphon to get the siphon flowing before the tank overflows. More of an explanation in detail with drawings to come, this is just to get some discussion flowing the subject.
The tube after D should be bigger than the rest to make the flow a stronger
the shorter the tubes the faster the flow
on your design A-D should be the same size after D should be bigger and you will see (should be major) boost in flow
my dual with 3/4 (I think) was doing like 400 GPH
the shorter the tubes the faster the flow
on your design A-D should be the same size after D should be bigger and you will see (should be major) boost in flow
my dual with 3/4 (I think) was doing like 400 GPH
I tried it
I tried it
I built mine and spread it out so that the inputs are on each side of the tank. The problem though is that it acts like it flushes and dumps about 3 gallons into the sump in seconds and then the system looses syphon and stops. Any suggestions?
Travis
I tried it
I built mine and spread it out so that the inputs are on each side of the tank. The problem though is that it acts like it flushes and dumps about 3 gallons into the sump in seconds and then the system looses syphon and stops. Any suggestions?
Travis
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