$15 PVC Overflow

Krylon fusion has been reported to work on pvc you need to sand off the smooth surface then paint. Some people say that it works others say that it peels I have not tried it, those that have a peeling issue may have not sanded the pipes. Or get a piece of black plexi and make a shield that is zip tied on.
 
If you dont like the look for the PVC, you could attach a Piece of Black Acrylic to the PVC to cover the look of the PVC, but you will also reduce your surface skimming to a select area. But then all you would see is a Black Piece of acrylic......

didnt read the post above all the way the first time...lol
 
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power off over flow discharge

power off over flow discharge

I have had to do some calc for my self. I did not see this information posted so I thought I would post it.

The following reflects how much water will still siphon with power off to the sump. Figures are based on the amount of inches under water level your intake is.

All-be-it, this does not actually concern the overflow, but more the return I wanted to do some calc for a new sump set up.
inch under gal of discharge
0.25 1.4
0.5 2.8
0.75 4.2
1 5.6


:D
 
rd, wouldnt that be directly related to length/width of tank. you take 1" on a standard 180, and its 7.5 gallons.

You take the Tank gallons and divide that by the tank height in inches.

180 gallon tankdivided by tank height 24"

180/24=7.5 gallons per inch of water

then divide that by 8, and you will get gallons gained for every 1/8th inch drop, divide by 4 for 1/4" and divide by 2 for 1/2"

very quick, and simple and will work on all rectangular and square tanks..
 
good catch

good catch

you are absolutely correct on that. I was figuring it for my tank and depending on the size of tank will make all the difference.

thanks for the catch and clairifaction on that one.
 
I hope to be building this very soon..

Went out and bought everything.

Just bought a sump.

I would like to take my 55 gallon and 10 Gallon both to the sump..

Would the pipe size be to large for the 10 gallon, I may be upgrading this tank in the future..

maybe a ball valve would help.

TIA

BenRaines
 
Herbert T. Kornfeld said:
Steel_Phoenix,
That 'crazy looking one' is the same link I posted on page 4...c'mon...pay attention people! Lol.
here you go again...
http://www.nd.edu/~lego/grp2/www/reef_diy.htm
pvtschultz,
where are you at...UWM? I might see you in the halls...

Nah, I'm at MSOE doing it the right way lol...JK. I'll be graduating next year if all goes well. I have almost all my majors done but need to finish up a lot of others.
 
Herbert, in your thread on the other site, what do you have the open pipe going up connected too? Is this where you attached the rigid airline and check valve?

I am wanting to build one to mimic yours, and in my initial testing, I cannot get the siphon to maintain. Does yours work like this one in maintaining the syphon if the overflow stops flowing from water level dropping?

Thanks,
Steve
 
http://www.nano-reef.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8455&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8383

The upward pipe is an air-gap...it can be left open, or have a cap put on it with an airline to muffle it. I dug up the ole one I made downstairs in a junk pile this week. As you can see, I used 2" pipe and a cap simply attached to the 1" pipe and cap inside with a nylon bolt and washer. I then made holes all around the 1" pipe inside since I otherwise capped off the 1" syphon pipe. Works great. No teeth needed or anything, since the gap between the pipes in about 1/4". And, as you can see, I did add a cap with a small hole in it to silence the overflow area. Its all folded over itself so that the "H" part fits in between the overflows. The "H" is evenly balanced so that the whole thing can be hung on a tank, and the H keeps it straight up and down. The "H" also sits on the back of the tank so that the skimmer doesnt wobble left-right. The only thing you see indside the tank is the 2" pipe&cap...which you can always spray with krylon...much less noticable than an upside down "U" in the tank.
 
I am still not understanding how you gain siphon though. Are you sucking the air out of the air-gap to start it? Also, in your picture, it is hard to tell where the rigid piece is. Is that what you are using to start the siphon.

Thanks for the link and your help with this.

Steve
 
Ok, so I have built this using Tboned's specs from the beginning of this thread. I have not glued anything but have made sure all pipes are tight.

I had flow running once but like an a** I pulled out one of the check valves to remove the water and now can't get it to take again. I have checked to make sure all pipes are snug, I even took the return and put it in both the intakes to get the water in. Still can not get nothing.

To get the flow started. I cover one intake and the two holes I drilled in the top cap (R)

Thanks

BenRaines
 
to get the flow started you need to cover the outlet (center pipe)
at the top and bottom

pipes R and O

then suck the air out of the check valves
 
Haha.

Glad to know I wasn't the only one to try this.

Problem is, as you will likely find out, the flow rate sucks. It'll never keep up with anything but the smallest pump.

If you make the height differential large enough to keep up with a pump, the x-sectional area of the overflow tubes allows air to be sucked in, ruining the siphon. Not only are the siphons a royal PITA to start, if you lose them, you lose the overflow. Then you just empty your sump onto your floor. :(

You can get an overflow on ebay for $15. I did. All acrylic. New.

Put down the PVC and noone will get hurt... ;)

If you used 4" PVC for the intake areas with huge U bends, it would work. This is the approx. x-sectional area for an average overflow. Less just causes too much turbulance. But if you use 4" PVC, I think your space issues will be a problem, not to mention it's FUGLY.
 
Not argueing with the low flow but in my case I think it is a flaw in my application. As to the 4 inch cross-sectional I think your crazy. How can you say that a 1 inch pvc has less cross section than a 1 inch u tube. The cross-section of the overflow box is meaningless. The U tube is the weakest link and it is what will limit flow. The PVC overflow has a U tube as large as most overflow boxs. the drain tube can be whatever size you want. The reason I dont want overflow boxes is space behind my tank is limited, fish can get into them, and finily I like to make things myself. :) Hope you like your box :)
 
Actually, the major limiting factor would be the difference in height between the inside and outside overflow. Increasing this distance will result in a higher possible flow. Lowering this difference will lower your max possible flow. The bottom of the overflow syhpon must be at a lower point than the outside overflow level however.
 
In the case of the U tube, the cross sectional area is of course- 1 inch.

But. The box in the water has say... 16" of circumferance for surface area to be drawn upon.

Remember- the U tube is upside down compared to this PVC overflow design. You cannot possibly get flow sufficient with surface skimming without massive water height differential, in which case it would suck in large quantities of air and eliminate the siphon.

If you used this design and had the inlet facing DOWN into a big piece of 4" PVC that was facing up just grazing the waters surface, then you'd be more accurately imitating what an overflow box does.

See what I'm driving at here?
 
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