150 Gallon Build Thread

[inktomi]

So I'm starting to think about how I might want to move things from my old 40 gallon tank into my 150. I'll certainly be waiting longer, probably another month or two, but it's never to early to start thinking, right?

My 40g has it's share of issues, caused in part I think by not having a sump and having a really poor hang on back skimmer. The two biggest things that I don't want to move to the new tank are:

- Flatworms
- Various alage/spores

So.. to that end I'm not going to be moving the rock to the new tank. I'll be removing the coral that I want to transfer - breaking up the rock in the process.

I then plan on having a series of buckets set up...

1. Alage scrubbing station. Everything gets removed here.
2. Saltwater rinse, to remove as many spores, etc as possible.
3. Flatworm exit soak. I think things will have to soak for 10 to 15 minutes here.
4. Freshwater dip. Just to try to remove anything else.
5. Saltwater rinse. For good measure.

Would that be sufficient to prevent the transfer of bubble alage (which I don't have much of anymore) and flatworms (again, not a huge issue anymore, but they're there..).

Is it overkill?

How would you go about transferring a GBTA? I don't want to try to remove it from the rock it's on, since I imagine that would probably damage it - but I don't want the rock it's on in the new tank if I can help it. I don't plan on freshwater dipping the BTA =)

 

[goochesfish]

That is alot of work you've got lined up. Can't you use a turkey baster on the rock the anemone is on to remove the undesirables?

 

[inktomi]

Yea, the algae that I'm most concerned with though will take some scrubbing =\

 

[inktomi]

Took some time to take a few photos of some fun hitchhikers..

This first one looks like some sort of snail or something - only without a shell..

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/30998766@N03/4022906430/" title="DSC_0007 by inktomi, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2511/4022906430_28ba4cdf59.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="DSC_0007" /></a>

And then I think I have some sort of encrusting coral..

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/30998766@N03/4022907110/" title="DSC_0006 by inktomi, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2664/4022907110_76a37a7296.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="DSC_0006" /></a>

and lots of algae =)

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/30998766@N03/4022906828/" title="DSC_0001 by inktomi, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3490/4022906828_e4ecf959f9.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="DSC_0001" /></a>

I'm off to do a water change and install either a carbon or gfo reactor. Not quite sure which yet. Might mix some carbon into the gfo and do a bit of both =p

My nitrites are still just barely detectable. Ammonia is not, Nitrates are not - though I think that may just be the all the algae eating it up. Phosphate is also undetectable, though again - I think that may just be the algae eating it up.

Since I have the gfo, I guess it wouldn't hurt to try running it to help clear the algae from the tank a bit quicker.

Fun times with new tank algae blooms! It looks like something a tank would love, big and leafy, but with the nitrites still hanging around (0.01 or so via my Sailfert) I don't want to add any fish. Maybe next weekend or so.

 

[goochesfish]

You added your clean up crew right? Snails did wonders for my tank. I put in 50. I have no algae. The above hitchhikers are in your new tank?

 

[inktomi]

Yea there's a big order from live aquaria of snails and hermits in there. They're working hard =)

The hitchhikers are new to me. I hope, at least, the coral makes it.

 

[inktomi]

I took a moment to measure the TDS of my RO water. Last time I measured it, we were at 0 TDS. Since then, I've filled my 150g tank (twice), and done many water changes.

Today, my TDS was 12. I ordered materials to use to replace my DI bed, as well as carbon filters in 1 micron and 5 micron sizes.

Should I replace just the DI bed, or go for all the filters? I last changed the carbon filters less than a year ago - so I was thinking I'd start with just the DI bed.

I also added a trio of Evansi Anthias from the divers den. My water is still testing clear, so I wanted to add some life to the tank without moving things from my 40g just yet. So far the anthias are doing wonderfully and eating almost everything I feed them.

Tomorrow I should be getting a second Two Little Fishies 150 reactor, in which I'm going to run carbon.

One more thing - I'm now running a full dose of GFO in a 150 reactor - and I noticed my PH was down in the afternoon around 7.6 - very low! Should I move up my plans to add a CA reactor to my system?

I know the CA reactor isn't really needed just yet - however as I understand it as a side effect of having them your PH is raised. Is there a better way I should be maintaing my PH? Water changes are not going to cut it - I'm already doing a weekly 40g change to 1.025 with Tropic Marine Pro Reef salt.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

I took a moment to measure the TDS of my RO water. Last time I measured it, we were at 0 TDS. Since then, I've filled my 150g tank (twice), and done many water changes.

Today, my TDS was 12. I ordered materials to use to replace my DI bed, as well as carbon filters in 1 micron and 5 micron sizes.

Should I replace just the DI bed, or go for all the filters? I last changed the carbon filters less than a year ago - so I was thinking I'd start with just the DI bed.

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 ("œChlorine Guzzler") for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called "œprefilters") do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the "œin" port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka "œpermeate"), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane's advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin "œdirty" water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin "“ remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ

 

[inktomi]

Ah, well then it's about time to be changing the filters anyway. Thanks for the reply.

I have an old jar of kalk, so to address my PH issue I mixed some up and will be using it for top off water. I'll retest this afternoon after it's been used for top off for the day to make sure it's not going crazy. I mixed up a weak batch to start with at any rate - better safe than a PH of 10 =)

 

[homeboyreefer]

awesome build inktomi, cant wait to see it stocked up

 

[goochesfish]

A calcium reactor will lower your pH even more because the effluent is generally below a pH of 7. What's your KH? Maybe you should add buffer.

Nice info from Buckeye field supply.

 

[inktomi]

Yes, after I posted that I read several articles about it and realized that my understanding was backwards. My dKH was at 8, Alk was 2.86 meq/L using my Sailfert kit.

 

[goochesfish]

How are your little clowns doing? Let me know what you do to get rid of the hair algae. I only have 2 little tufts that the CUC just can't seem to find. It is so tough to pull out and of course is on the bottom rocks.

 

[inktomi]

The clowns are doing wonderfully. They've got a green BTA in their tank, and they never leave it's tentacles. They're little piggies too - it's funny watching them try to down a whole mysis - they can do it, but it doesn't look comfortable. I feed them chopped mysis and flake twice a day.

The anthias are also doing very well. They have a lot of personality! They'll follow you around the tank, and watch you through the glass.

Right now the anthias are in the 150, which is their quarantine tank. After I'm sure they're healthy - though they seem to be and they're from the diver's den - I'm going to move my stuff from my 40g over to the 150 as well. The anthias are going on one week, which certainly isn't long... but I'm hopeful that with 6 feedings throughout the day they'll make it long term. They're beautiful fish!

(edit)
I feed both the evansi anthias and the clowns chopped mysis in the morning, and rod's food in the evening before lights out. The anthias also get 4 other feedings of cyclops during the day - once every two hours.

 

[goochesfish]

wow, that's why I'm afraid to get anthias. You must have an automatic feeder right?

 

[inktomi]

Yes. I was going home on my lunch break to feed the fish, but I just got an automatic feeder two days ago. It seems to work very well for cyclops, since it's such a small food to begin with.

 

[goochesfish]

What kind of feeder did you get?
Between, checking levels, topping off, feeding, cleaning, don't you think you have to have a little OCD to successfully maintain a reef tank?

 

[inktomi]

I'm using an Eheim 3581 from Marine Depot.. http://www.marinedepot.com/fish_food_eheim_feed-air_digital_auto_feeder-ap.html

 

[inktomi]

I moved over one acan lord colony, an acan echinatata, two montipora and a platygyra from my 40 gallon to the 150 tonight. All are expanded and doing well.

Next week I'm out of town all week at ApacheCon, so my housemate will be tending to the tank.

So far all is well. I hope it's the same when I get back!

 

[inktomi]

I've officially got the entire 40 gallon moved over into the 150. I hope that I didn't get any flatworms, though even as careful as I was I'm sure that I transferred at least a few. Hopefully they will get eaten, I may add an arrow crab to help that along.

Pictures soon =)