150 Redux

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9563096#post9563096 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by o2zen
Looking good Greg.

Thanks Eric,


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9563123#post9563123 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jeffbrig
VERRRY NICE!

What's going on the right of the tank?

--Christy (too lazy to log out so am posting as Jeff) :D

Christy,

Thanks I got a lot of ideas from you two. Do you notice any similarities?

There will a closet next to the tank that will house the Refugeium and reactors and electronics. it will have the same louvered door as the one below in front of the sump

room1.jpg
 
This morning I was so excited to have the 150 in place, I for got it was Sunday. I'm a little late but I have all the normal stuff is done I even took a fresh razor blade and scraped some coralline off the glass.

The water tests for the 65 are done and the #s are:

Ca 480
Alk 3.3 meq/l 9Dkh
Mg 1250

My alkalinity is still low, but the calcium has been rock steady at 480 for months. I added a 4.8 tsp of baking soda today and will have to do some more regular tests to adjust the amounts of 2 part I dose.
 
I got the final doors on the front of the stand and hood hung but they still are in need a lot of adjustments and some woodwork on the ones that had to be reversed. These types of hinges don’t have a lot of adjustment built in and it takes bending the hinge mostly to get the door to hand straight. The weight of the door causes them to sag over time and they will need to be readjusted in the future.

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I’ll have lots of access with the doors opened all the way.

stand12.jpg


I still need to work on the slide works for the hood. There isn’t any room between the hood and the top of the archway, its real tight but after I get water in it and things settle out under the weight it should fit perfect.

stand13.jpg
 
I got the final coat of paint on the inside of the stand on Monday and started re plumbing the prop tank and sump after the paint was dry. Thanks Nate (natec) and Mike (lookout888) for all the help with the remaining plumbing things go so much faster when you have help.

I have the return manifold ruff plumbed with 6 ¾’ locklines, I’m trying to get an idea of the flow and do any adjustments before I glue it all up. and the stand pipe in the sump needs a little tuning to cut down on the noise.

Plumbing installed and water testing has begun. First the sump then the prop tank (it looks like there might be a small seep in one of the joints) then we opened up the ball valve going to the pump and fired up the dart. Boy that thing makes a lot of noise, I am told it will quiet up in a few days (I sure hope it does)

stand14.jpg

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After the last bit of watter went in the sump and the dart turned back on water started flying all over the place, we had to make several adjustments to the design like drilling the hole in the Durso and extending the riser tube in the sump. There wasn't that much water on the ground but it was exciting for a few seconds.:)

I didn't think I would sleep very well last night from the noise and worrying of waking up to a flood but I was exhausted and slept like a rock. I woke up to a dry floor and no signs of any appreciable leaks. :)


stand17.jpg
 
Joe, it has a straight shot from the overflow. I had to install a ball valve to cut the flow through the 3/4' lockline, because the overflow on the prop tank could not handle 1200gph I might have to re-drill and go larger on the durso if I want more flow.
 
wow.. lots of flow thru 3/4".. good for that frag tank.. those will be happy frags... you can put a small powerhead pointing against the flow in the raceway to create nice turbulence..
 
Which skimmer are you using in this system and how is your plumbing worked out for the sump? Any good close up pics of the sump area?
 
We decided to fill the 50g sump up and use the dart to fill the tank ( Greg just wanted to play with the pump) First time goes well main tank starts filling fast and sump drains. So we turn off the pump and let the sump fill back up with water. Wile it is filling we do some work on the lock lines on the manifold. I Turn one of the lock lines around that had a bleed whole on it b/c it was pointing up.

Greg goes to plug pump back in....
ME: Wait Greg let me point the lock line in the tank that I just moved so we don’t get water everywhere.
Me:<--- push lock line down. Ok go ahead
Greg<-- plugs in pump
SOUNDS OF WATER GUSHING
Greg:Sh1t
Greg:<--- pushing the lock line in the tank that was pointed over the side of the tank( Note this is the one Greg was working on).


LITTLE LATER

ME: Greg did you say to unplug the dart
<Loud sound water gushing everywhere>
Me: That can not be good <-- unplug the dart and run around the other side of the tank.
Greg: Think we need to extend the dorso on the drain. I will go get a towel.

These little mishaps are what makes setting up a tank fun :-p
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9599173#post9599173 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by o2zen
Which skimmer are you using in this system and how is your plumbing worked out for the sump? Any good close up pics of the sump area?

O2,

The skimmer is a ER 12-1

The plumbing is basically a Durso working in reverse. I have two drain lines a 1 1/2' comming from the display and a 1' comming from the prop tank.

sumpPSrunning.jpg
 
I was looking at the return manifold and did not like seeing it in the display tank so it was going to have to be relocated on top of the Euro-brace.Yesterday I had to cut the Euro-brace so that the Durso would fit and use about 8 45 elbows to get the return manifold around the 2’ cap for the Durso. So I only had to rotate a few 45 elbows to get it up on top of the Euro-brace and out of view. I then had to put the hood back on to make sure that there was going to be room for it, and to see how visible the lock line was going to be.
Overflowplumbing2.jpg

Overflowplumbing3.jpg

Overflowplumbing4.jpg

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It looked like it was going to be the best I could get so I glued up all the joints except the 45s and the T on top of the main return, they are just taped and forced together tight.

I got the basic rock foundation in place, the rock back drops have been curing for a few months on the porch so I put them in place on the non viewable walls. I found a large piece of keys rock that measured 18’ X 18’ X 7’ and weighted about 150 lbs, I had it cut into 3 pieces 6’ X 18’ X 7’. I had the rock soaking in Muratic acid for a day and in fresh water all day yesterday (changing the water every hour or so). I placed them on the bottom about 4’ from the viewable sides. They will act as a rock wall that holds back my DSB preventing a sand storm and scalloping of the sand bed in areas of high flow ( who wants to see 6’ of sand anyway). Ill fill in the space with rubble, zoanthids and mushrooms.
front.jpg

side.jpg



The Corinthian capital is fresh cement and will have to cure for a few months before it can go in the display, I just wanted to see how it looked there.

Here are a few full tank and stand shots.

fulltankfront.jpg

fulltankside.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9602467#post9602467 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by o2zen
wow are you going to put LR in the tank as well?

O2, I'm putting in all the rock and sand from the 65 and what ever I need from the 120. I should end up with a few hundred lbs of sand and a few hundred lbs of live rock, on top of the 200lbs of cut rock that is in there now.
 
Greg - great looking setup!! Outstanding!

On the rock back drops. Where did you get these? The ones with the holes in them.

Hey, I have a larger 64 avatar I was using before. You are welcome to it.

AH64.jpg


Happy Retirement!!

Jay
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9605665#post9605665 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmait769
Greg - great looking setup!! Outstanding!

On the rock back drops. Where did you get these? The ones with the holes in them.

Hey, I have a larger 64 avatar I was using before. You are welcome to it.

AH64.jpg


Happy Retirement!!

Jay

Jay, Thanks.

The rock backdrops were 24' travertine tiles (cut limestone) most had crackes or were broken and I got them free from a stone place. I took a hole saw to them to cut out the spots for reef plugs to go and pached then together with the same mix I use to make the reef plugs with and used plastic easter eggs for the other holes. I tried to move them to soon and they broke in a few spots, but after curing for several months the cement is harder than the limestone.
 
Lookin great Greg! I really like the tile background it looks very good in place.I think the frag mote is going to look very cool all filled in. How do those scratches on the tank look now that it's filled with water?
Andrew
 
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