150g tank on a 120g stand

davidpesce

New member
I got one of the plywood stands (not particle board/mdf). It's from and rated for a 120g tank. Wondering if it will handle a 150g tall tank.

If not does anyone have any recommendations for reinforcing it?
 
David, pics would help but IMO if it was built to support 1/2 ton+ an extra 250ish lbs is ok.

That being said I'm sure reinforcing it is do-able...again pics would be sweet.
 
I got one of the plywood stands (not particle board/mdf). It's from and rated for a 120g tank. Wondering if it will handle a 150g tall tank.

If not does anyone have any recommendations for reinforcing it?

Nice dude. Is that going in your living room?
 
OK, some pics. Apologies for them being kind of dark. I had finished sanding and put on the first coat of paint before I snapped a shot.

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And one last pic. Thanks to G for making me expand beyond a black stand. Love the green.

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David...that stand kinda scares me lol...I'm sry.

It looks like many of the stands that are sold for aquariums...built with 3/4" material. You could reinforce it but IMO, depending on your skills, you could build your own, much stronger one, just as easy.

Fyi.. Most every stand I have built that was a 40b or smaller I have used 3/4" hardwood ply exclusively. Anything bigger and I build a 2x frame and wrap with ply and then trim.
 
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It held a 120 with no issues....I might install a 1x6 brace in the back of it in the middle of the open spot to carry the load and maybe even one in the front but if it is a "manufactured" stand it should carry the weight fine. IMO
 
Orrrrrr, cut 4 slots in the stand bottom to accept a 2x4 in each corner. Run them up flush to the 1x trim that glass sits on and maybe even a piece of 3/4" ply for the top and then glass on it.

I take back my earlier thoughts of building new...it wouldn't be difficult to reinforce that stand that you've already invested time into.
 
3/4" ply is totally fine into the several hundred gallon range assuming it's designed well.

Looking at those photos I'm confused though. Did you take anything off the stand? It looks like there isn't even a contiguous rail around the entire perimeter for the tank to sit on.
 
The way that is designed, virtually all the weight is sitting on the top lip of the plywood on either side. You can do that, I just wouldn't sleep well at night with a stand like that. Then again I have 2x4's held together with carriage bolts for my little 65 :lol:.

If I had that stand to hold a 150, I'd use it but tack in some extra supports. 2x4's would be best, but that's going to limit some of the usable space under the tank. If you're doing a basement sump, who cares, but if it's gonna be under-tank, you might not be able to fit whatever sump tank you've got chosen? Either way I'd put supports with the longer face matching up with the side walls in all 4 corners, as well as one in the middle supporting that cross brace. I over-build everything though...
 
Looking at those photos I'm confused though. Did you take anything off the stand? It looks like there isn't even a contiguous rail around the entire perimeter for the tank to sit on.

Nope, left it as is. That's exactly what worries me. All the weight bearing structures seem to be at the corners only. After building my 75g stand, I'm wondering if I can just whip another one up quick for the 150. The 75g is built like a tank.

Hmmmm....

Anyone want a stand?:headwally:
 
On a mass produced bottom rimmed tank (where the bottom panel is captured between the sides vs. being underneath it) supporting "just the corners" is pretty much OK. It just doesn't leave much to resist racking, and it doesn't make sense (to me anyways) to design in a foolish manner like that. I'm guessing the tank's bottom rim rests along the lip inside each end panel, and along the (very short) tops of the two vertical posts on the back? And also the top of the brace in the middle at the front only? It doesn't touch anything else besides those points?

If I were in your shoes, I'd laminate a piece of 3/4" ply along the back, connecting the two narrow verticals and providing a constant edge along the back of the tank for support. I'd make it 8" tall to give stiffness and a long joint to the verticals in each corner. I'd remove the center brace and add a narrow shim along the top of the inner front rail whatever thickness was required to give contact to the full front rim on the tank. Then, replace the center brace with a piece of similar dimension, but oriented vertically and screwed to the front and back rails. This will keep them from going anywhere.

These changes should be quick and easy and at that point, the stand would have full contact around the perimeter of the tank, and it would be better braced for racking thanks to the wider support along the back. In terms of being able to carry the vertical load, I don't think you've got any cause for concern or need to beef up the corners at all.
 
On a mass produced bottom rimmed tank (where the bottom panel is captured between the sides vs. being underneath it) supporting "just the corners" is pretty much OK. It just doesn't leave much to resist racking, and it doesn't make sense (to me anyways) to design in a foolish manner like that. I'm guessing the tank's bottom rim rests along the lip inside each end panel, and along the (very short) tops of the two vertical posts on the back? And also the top of the brace in the middle at the front only? It doesn't touch anything else besides those points?

If I were in your shoes, I'd laminate a piece of 3/4" ply along the back, connecting the two narrow verticals and providing a constant edge along the back of the tank for support. I'd make it 8" tall to give stiffness and a long joint to the verticals in each corner. I'd remove the center brace and add a narrow shim along the top of the inner front rail whatever thickness was required to give contact to the full front rim on the tank. Then, replace the center brace with a piece of similar dimension, but oriented vertically and screwed to the front and back rails. This will keep them from going anywhere.

These changes should be quick and easy and at that point, the stand would have full contact around the perimeter of the tank, and it would be better braced for racking thanks to the wider support along the back. In terms of being able to carry the vertical load, I don't think you've got any cause for concern or need to beef up the corners at all.



What he said....lol
 
Back to the drawing board...
Going to build it just like my 75g stand, but skin it with maple. I'd like to stick with the green, so I'm going to go with a green tinted stain for the finish.

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