15G Nano Reef Help

[Rammess]

Hi Everyone,

Attached are some images for you to look at. I have a few questions so I will just bullet them below. Hoping someone more experienced can help me out.

Tank Info:
-AI Prime 16 Reef Light (Spectrum and Wattage are below. I used the Bulk Reef Supply conversion for the SPS AB+ spectrum with Aqua Illumination AI Prime 16
-Hygger Protein Skimmer (rated for 57 gallons) Struggling a bit with microbubbles, but also read it needs to break in and develop some slime to stop this
-Waterbox included plastic bio balls in a mesh bag that I just put in the overflow (far left) section of the sump that the water flows through. I ditched the filter socks since they are annoying to buy every week and clog up and then it messes up my ATO
-Waterbox included bag of carbon in a mesh bag that is just plopped on top of the return pump in the farthest right chamber that is just sitting in water (not sure if this is good or bad or harmless)
-The middle chamber has the protein skimmer and nothing else.
-AI Prime light set up is the
-Pump is a AI Nero 3 that is set to a lower flow since its small tank (Set to random reef mode with 1% speed to 5% speed with medium variance)
-Salinity is 1.025
-Water Temp is 76 degrees
-Livestock: 6 line wrasse, Clownfish, Cleaner Shrimp, Clean up crew (snails and hermits)


1. Are my parameters acceptable according to the test? This was 5 min ago as of this post.
2. If they are correct, why am I getting this sprinkle of greenish colored algae on my rocks and on the glass/sand. (I have read this is a precursor to coralline which I hope, but if its not should I be worried?)
3. What types of coral do I even have? (Bought frags from local store) I think they are SPS, but don't know specific names. I think 2 are Favia, 1 is Gorgonia, and I have no idea about the other 2 larger ones. Let me know if you know.
4. Why are the Gorgonia (if not gorgonia the tall skinny one) polyps are retracted?
5. Why is the Anemone in bottom left corner shrunken up? At night when I peak in the tank it is puffed up and looks large and in charge, but under light it looks scared.
6. If you have suggestions for changes please let me know.

 

[griss]

How long has the tank been set up and running?

1. Parameters look good although Nitrate is a bit low.
1.1. What are your Alkalinity, pH and Calcium levels?
2. The greenish algae is normal for a newer tank. Should be fine.
3. Smaller green corals appear to possibly be Blastmossa or Favia species. The tall thin branching is a Gorgonian. The thicker branching appears to be a Montipora Digitata. Not sure on the others, even enlarging the pic I can't really tell.
4. Gorgonian not extending polyps could be for various reasons.
5. Can't tell from the picture what type of anemone it is. You say it expands at night but closes during the day? Could be the lighting. @OrionN any thoughts here?

 

[Rammess]

Do you think I should keep the same spectrum, but just reduce wattage? I mean I assumed the lighting needed to be at max in order to get like 150-200 par at the level where the corals are. I don't know alkalinity, I guess I need to go buy a test kit for that. I just do a 3-5g water change in a 15 gallon tank with the 1.025 Saltwater from the reef store.

I will do a PH test now and get back to you.

 

[Rammess]

See Photo of PH.

Let me know what you think.

 

[griss]

Do you think I should keep the same spectrum, but just reduce wattage? I mean I assumed the lighting needed to be at max in order to get like 150-200 par at the level where the corals are. I don't know alkalinity, I guess I need to go buy a test kit for that. I just do a 3-5g water change in a 15 gallon tank with the 1.025 Saltwater from the reef store.

I will do a PH test now and get back to you.

Honestly, I don't know much about LEDs. I'm still using Metal Halide lighting

 

[griss]

See Photo of PH.

Let me know what you think.


View attachment 32388795

I really don't like the color change test kits. This is a great example of why, I cannot tell what shade that matches closest to Might be because of the picture, but to your eye, what does it match up to best?

Personally, when I test I prefer titration test kits like Salifert.

 

[Rammess]

I really don't like the color change test kits. This is a great example of why, I cannot tell what shade that matches closest to Might be because of the picture, but to your eye, what does it match up to best?

Personally, when I test I prefer titration test kits like Salifert.

I know I will buy those, this was just a spontaneous (get started) test kit, but I agree.

 

[griss]

I think the one other coral may be an Acropora but we’d need a close up to get a closer ID on it.

How long have you had the tank set up?

@reefing102 @kharmaguru @mtnbike101 @MtnDewMan @Genetics do you guys have anything to correct me on or add?

 

[Rammess]

I think the one other coral may be an Acropora but we’d need a close up to get a closer ID on it.

How long have you had the tank set up?

@reefing102 @kharmaguru @mtnbike101 @MtnDewMan @Genetics do you guys have anything to correct me on or add?

I tried to take 2 pics 1 focused on each coral

 

[Rammess]

 

[Rammess]

Any help for the Gorgonion though? Should I move it? Should I turn lights down? Should I leave it and wait? It used to be vibrant all out for a week then did this for a day or two

 

[reefing102]

Alright, first welcome to RC if I haven’t welcomed you already!

I agree with @griss on what he said. The two red/green appear to be favia/favites. In my experience gorgonians will shed every now and then and mine like higher flow. I’d leave it be and let it settle in more.

As for the SPS, I can’t give 100% answers but the greener one may be either a Green Birdsnest (seriatopora sp.) or Green Pocillopora. The other may be a type of Montipora Digitata (perhaps ROAB or German Blue) or another type of Birdsnest (can’t tell if the tips are more pointed or blunt (blunter tips lean me more towards Digitata). With hard corals (both LPS and SPS) water stability (specifically in the Alk, Calcium, and magnesium ranges) is very important.

With regards to the anemone, from what I can see of it, it appears to be a long tentacle anemone. They will usually bury their foot in the sand. With that said, it could be a number of factors but it appears bleached and generally anemones aren’t recommended for newer tanks as they like a more established and balanced parameters.

Now the light, I honestly don’t know AI all that much as I believe they have two different settings, one for actual intensity and one for color. Have you measured your PAR with a par meter? You may be blasting everything with too much light and not realize it or too little light. The par numbers given in online sources should be used as a reference only and your results can vary significantly. Others should chime in here.

I hope this helps!

 

[Rammess]

Alright, first welcome to RC if I haven’t welcomed you already!

I agree with @griss on what he said. The two red/green appear to be favia/favites. In my experience gorgonians will shed every now and then and mine like higher flow. I’d leave it be and let it settle in more.

As for the SPS, I can’t give 100% answers but the greener one may be either a Green Birdsnest (seriatopora sp.) or Green Pocillopora. The other may be a type of Montipora Digitata (perhaps ROAB or German Blue) or another type of Birdsnest (can’t tell if the tips are more pointed or blunt (blunter tips lean me more towards Digitata). With hard corals (both LPS and SPS) water stability (specifically in the Alk, Calcium, and magnesium ranges) is very important.

With regards to the anemone, from what I can see of it, it appears to be a long tentacle anemone. They will usually bury their foot in the sand. With that said, it could be a number of factors but it appears bleached and generally anemones aren’t recommended for newer tanks as they like a more established and balanced parameters.

Now the light, I honestly don’t know AI all that much as I believe they have two different settings, one for actual intensity and one for color. Have you measured your PAR with a par meter? You may be blasting everything with too much light and not realize it or too little light. The par numbers given in online sources should be used as a reference only and your results can vary significantly. Others should chime in here.

I hope this helps!

Thank you for your reply. I think i definitely need to invest in some tests for alkalinity. I assumed it could not have changed too much from the fish stores water. As for PAR i referenced a bull reef supply video on my exact light that I have and he does a par reading from the exact distance mine is above the water and then also the distance to the coral shelf through the water column. I should be getting around 180-220 Par directly underneath with probably around 140-180 around the edges and maybe a spike in Par on that back piece that is closest to surface if I had to guess. Shouldn’t a gorgonian love that though?

 

[kharmaguru]

Shouldn’t a gorgonian love that though?

The answer is always 'it depends where it came from'. Even if ideal PAR is 300 for a specific coral, but it was under 150 for 2 months, 300 will shock it. With leds it's usually best to have an aclimation period when introducing new corals. I believe the AI prime has an aclimation mode in it's software. The oldschool way when light intesity wasn't adjustable, was to put new corals at the bottom in dimmer areas and see how they respond, and then move to the desired final location in increments. Acclimation mode of modern lights takes the hassle out of it.