180 Build

dguest98

dguest98

New member
OK I think I have the pieces of the puzzle together:

180 gallon tank
Iwaki 100 for return
90 gallon sump (THANKS OSU86)
euroreef cs-8 skimmer
prime 1/4 horse chiller
2 250 watt MH
2 72" VHO super actinic
Aquacontroller 3
RO/DI unit
and a bunch of misc stuff

My plan is to plumb the tank through and exterior wall to the utility room.

I have a ton of questions but I'll start with a few:

1. I think that with the 90 gallon sump in the utility room the returns from my tank after going through the wall might have a slight uphill angle on them, is this terrible? What can I do about it if it is?

2. Does anyone know of anyone who can drill the back of my AGA 180 so I can do a closed loop? I have called a couple of glass places and they either will not touch it or they won't come to me. Dont really want to move this thing again.

3. When I get things going is there anything wrong with putting plexiglass on top of the sump since it is in the utility/laundry room and I want to cut down on salt damage to the washer and dryer and of course the beer fridge.

4. Can someone point me in the right direction for a unit that hooks up to my RO/DI system to keep the freshwater resevoir tank full for the topoff system.

Ok this should get me started, I hope to meet some of you soon as I want to try and make the next meeting and join your club.

Thank you,

David
 
David Welcome to the FMAS forum :) We're excited and happy to have you.

The only question that I feel comfortable answering is #3.

I would not think there to be a problem with putting a plexiglass cover over the sump (you probably have to cut a hole for the skimmer to stick through). You won't get as much oxygenation through the water, which in turn might depress your pH, but that's not usually the end of the world.

In fact, since it's in the laundry room, I would DEFNITELY suggest putting a cover over it (maybe you can even use a fabric cloth or something so it still breathes) but the cover is very important in a laundry room, because I keep just fish supplies in my laundry room, and I access them about once a month or so, and each time I access them, they've got a new buildup of dust and lint from the washing and drying going on around it, and these are all kept like 1' from the ceiling, so I can't imagine how much crap a lower sump would pick up.

Are you planning on doing a photosynthetic refugium? If so, you would want to consider something fireproof to put over the sump, as I would hate to suggest cloth, and then it catch fire from a low power bulb keeping your sump lit.

HTH.

Sounds like you're off to a great start. I'm exceited to hear more about your tank build.

Any ideas of what kind of corals/fish you want to keep?

BTW I've also got a Euro-Reef 8 series, but I've got an 8-2 with an upgraded Sedra9000. That things milks like crazy and rocks the skimmate even without any mods (except gate valve, gate valve is a must).
 
Hey reefwreak
yeah I didnt even think about the bad stuff from the laundry room getting into the tank, good point.'
I am hoping to do a refugium, I have never done one and the sump I have has 4 chambers so im planning on it, figured I would ask those questions later.
I am planning on doing a light coral probably mostly softies and very hardy hards and reef type fish(non aggressive) I'm sure in a year I will be showing pics of my calcium reactor and all coral tank but for now I will go slow.
So you put a sedra 9000 on your skimmer b/c mine has the 5000 with the gate valve, btw I have to put a plastic bag rubberbanded over the uptube to keep it under control am I doing something wrong?
thanks again talk to you later
 
My skimmer came with the 9000, but I bought mine used. Is yours an 8-1, 8-2, or 8-3 (only difference is the height, 18", 24", and 36" I believe, all 8" in diameter, and I believe all 3 came stock with a Sedra5000).

The 9000 definitely rocks the skimmer, and I've been happy with it other than a weird height quirk because I believe it has the wrong elbow on it, so they're not sitting level with each other. So is the hazard of buying used, but the price was right.
I don't know what the uptube is, nor why there would be a plastic bag there... If you mean the main chamber (where the pump pours the water and bubbles into), then you should not have to do anything to get them to the top of the skimmer except just simply opening up the gate valve more.

The height of the water/foam mixture in the main chamber will be determined by the water leaving the skimmer, which is controlled by the gate valve (Note: Yes skimmer experts, that's not entirely accurate, but for the time being, it will have to do). I tried to find a pic of my skimmer where the water level is, and what the foam column looks like, but I couldn't find one :( sorry. When I come home over spring break in 3 weeks, I'll PM you and see if you want to swing by and see what the skimmer looks like and such.
 
Welcome to the forum David!

I am not sure how much of an incline you are going to have with the plumbing through the wall but I am sure if you use flex PVC then this should take up some of the angle making it easier to transition back to the standard hard angle fittings. The iwaki 100 is plenty enough pump for the return and I don't think you will have any problem with it.

I am not sure what to tell you for the holes in the tank so i can't answer there.

As for putting a piece of plexi over the tank; I wouldn't do it. If you are worried about salt splash and creep what I would do is use screening material from homedepot and make a plastic or wooden frame to encase it. Just cover the tank with this. The water will not splash out much and you can still promote healthy evaporation through the sump. You can also check to see if a reptile store has the screen covers for the tanks, I believe a 75G has the same footprint as the 90 so maybe you can score a ready made cover. Then you just cut small holes in the screen where you need them for the plumbing etc.. Then I would go around the edge of the cut screen with some silicone so the edges do not split out. Doing it this way leaves teh sump open in a sense still closed at teh same time. Seems like a win win situation.

I am not sure what to tell you about teh RO either. You could check airwaterandice and see what they have. i am pretty sure I read somewhere that with the constant on and off of the RO unit it will cause the membrane to seep some things into the water. This would be caused by pressure changes as the valve opens and closes.

Good luck with the build. Keep us updated!

HTH,

-Mike-
 
Also I forgot to ask. In your equipment list you mentioned using 2x 250watt. Shouldn't it be 3? I thought the 180s were 72" long.
that would work out to three openings hence three lights. Just wondering ya know LOL.
 
Thanks reef, i will try the 9000 one day.
Racer that is a great idea so that way any splashing or creep will go into the grate instead of on my appliances, until otherwise told that will be my plan, thanks.
Yeah I should have 3 but they are from my upgrade so for now I only have 2, will get a third in the near future.

Where do you guys get your flex PVC because I wanna start to plumb this bad boy this weekend.

Thanks for the advice keep it coming.
 
By the way since you all live down here has any of you ever drilled a couple of 4 inch holes through the cinder block walls in your house.
I'd love to hear what im in for, any tips.
 
Just a follow up anyone one the Drilling of the cinder block walls and does anyone have a overflow box they wanna get rid of?

I think instead of a closed loop I will just run another overflow bump my sump flow rate to about 1800gph and just branch off my returns from the Iwaki for more flow.

Anyone see a problem with this?
 
Hi David,
I think that Emilo (lilfishbigreef) drilled holes in the tank that he had. At one time Matt (Ding2daDong) was talking about drilling holes into the wall. Also, I think that Mike did at one time or another. I will ask him when he gets home.
Renee
 
Matt did it. He used soft plastic to go through the wall though because he didn't want to have to futz with PVC. I still suggest PVC (sorry Matt :p ).
 
talk to rogger...he used the big drill to go through the cinderblock walls. You'll probably have to rent one and the drill bit, because I don't know too many people with that drill. I've got a hammer drill, but doubt the chuck's big enough to hold a drill bit big enough to drill that size of a hole. If I'm not mistakin you need an auger (spell check), but for some reason I don't know if that's right...it just kinda popped into my head. Good luck! p.s. you could go talk to the people at the home depot rental place. they'll help you get that hole drilled. also when you figure it out, let me know because I might bedrilling a hole through the wall soon.
 
Also maybe talk to Chris (Ludwigia73) since he works in a chain of heavy-duty tool rentals. He's very knowledgeable in tools in general, so I would be surprised if he didn't know how to drill a wall.
 
cool heading to the homedepot today to find out what they got.
Macawmagic thanks for the tips, I will keep you posted.

Lacy I emptied my inbox.

So what do you guys think about the overflow idea, i was looking into them and am concerned about the siphon issues they seem to have. Is anyone using one.

Also if I up the flow through my sump/refuge to 1800gph or so wont that be too much for the refuge.

Does anyone have a 10 gallon or so drilled tank to use as a refuge?

Keep it coming I will get pics going soon.
 
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