03LightningSVT
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Plumbing pics:smokin:
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180 In Wall Tank Pics
- Thread starter 03LightningSVT
- Start date
03LightningSVT
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Before and after pic of overflow slots:thumbsup:
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03LightningSVT
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Thanks! It was a quick and easy modification that I feel was necessary. During the afternoon, I went and listened to one of the speakers for an hour, that's probably when we got separated. Check out the MACNA XXI thread for a pic of the Sunday deals.
03LightningSVT
New member
Update:
I set up a 45 gal fuge, drilled sump and ran all new plumbing this weekend. All went according to plan = NO LEAKS
Also set up a 29 gal tank for my kalk top off water.
Spin-off project:
Started to alter the stand for the fuge which will become an electrical cabinet to protect ballasts, controller and other items I want to keep dry. I'll take some pics of everything once I clean up the rats nest of wiring I have going on.
I'd also like to thank Jandree22/Joel for the frags and fish. All are doing well
Brian
I set up a 45 gal fuge, drilled sump and ran all new plumbing this weekend. All went according to plan = NO LEAKS
Also set up a 29 gal tank for my kalk top off water.Spin-off project:
Started to alter the stand for the fuge which will become an electrical cabinet to protect ballasts, controller and other items I want to keep dry. I'll take some pics of everything once I clean up the rats nest of wiring I have going on.
I'd also like to thank Jandree22/Joel for the frags and fish. All are doing well
Brian
03LightningSVT
New member
Here are the progress pics:
75mm Glass Hole Saw
Return Pump
Return Line to 1" SeaSwirl
Drain Line Valves
Rats Nest
Auto Top Off
Fuge
75mm Glass Hole Saw
Return Pump
Return Line to 1" SeaSwirl
Drain Line Valves
Rats Nest
Auto Top Off
Fuge
03LightningSVT
New member
Loud is a relative term. That being said, I would not want this pump running 24/7 in my living room. Understand the display wall to the fish room was not in any way built to be a sound buffer/barrier and you can barely hear the return pump from the viewing side of my fish room, so I'm please. Actually the Vortechs ramping up and down is more noticeable to me than the return pump
03LightningSVT
New member
JeffBoyRD - Here are the details of my top off set-up
29 gal. Reservior
AutoTopOff.com is where I purchased my top off unit as they seemed to get good reviews (here on RC) for their products. Once installed, I was not happy with the "look" and adjustability of the supplied unit. So.....off came the ugly factory brackets! Opening the back of the switch box is required to disconnect the wires to the switches so they can be removed from the old brackets and installed in the new.
I custom made my brackets using acrylic and cpvc This is how I accomplished the "clean" look.
Brian
29 gal. Reservior
AutoTopOff.com is where I purchased my top off unit as they seemed to get good reviews (here on RC) for their products. Once installed, I was not happy with the "look" and adjustability of the supplied unit. So.....off came the ugly factory brackets! Opening the back of the switch box is required to disconnect the wires to the switches so they can be removed from the old brackets and installed in the new.
I custom made my brackets using acrylic and cpvc
This is how I accomplished the "clean" look.
Brian
03LightningSVT
New member
Update:
Do not duplicate my top-off design if you shut off your return pump for feeding. I found out the hard way, the float switches are not designed to be repeatedly submerged.
When I turn off my return pump, the water level rises above the float switches in the sump. Now both are toast.
Although the leads to the float switches are epoxy sealed and appear water proof, they are not!
I'll update again after I build a better mousetrap
Brian
Do not duplicate my top-off design if you shut off your return pump for feeding. I found out the hard way, the float switches are not designed to be repeatedly submerged.
When I turn off my return pump, the water level rises above the float switches in the sump. Now both are toast.
Although the leads to the float switches are epoxy sealed and appear water proof, they are not!
I'll update again after I build a better mousetrap
Brian
"Although the leads to the float switches are epoxy sealed and appear water proof, they are not!"
I got my auto top off from the same place, although mine is configured differently, they have been flooded lots of times - and when the power is out, for hours at a time. So far, no failure, maybe you just got a bad switch or was not sealed properly.
I got my auto top off from the same place, although mine is configured differently, they have been flooded lots of times - and when the power is out, for hours at a time. So far, no failure, maybe you just got a bad switch or was not sealed properly.
03LightningSVT
New member
Thanks chriscobb
Good point 2turtles, perhaps I did get a couple of "lemons". None the less, precautionary measures will taken next go around. I was lucky, the switches failed in the "off" position and my kalk reservoir was not emptied into my sump. I've read posts here on RC were the poster claimed a faulty float switch had caused a tank crash.
Good point 2turtles, perhaps I did get a couple of "lemons". None the less, precautionary measures will taken next go around. I was lucky, the switches failed in the "off" position and my kalk reservoir was not emptied into my sump. I've read posts here on RC were the poster claimed a faulty float switch had caused a tank crash.
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bigtony901
New member
Hey there really nice tank just taged on. But did u ever look into a iwaki mdk 100 return pump thats what I use now and with a computer mouse pad under it u cant hear anything and they are really reliabule. But with that im having a problem with my overflow not draining fast enough can u exsplain alittle more on how u have your setup that would be much appreciated thanks.
03LightningSVT
New member
I'm glad you are happy with your return pump but I'm not aware of MDK series pumps from Iwaki, please post a link. I did briefly look into Iwaki pumps and a lot of others but in the end I decided to go with Reeflo Gold Snapper because the GPH per watt of electricity ratio. Alot of reefers use the Reeflo Gold Dart but I do not require the additional flow this pump produces. The Snapper, at zero head - 2600 GPH and using only 95 watts - it's real tough to find an equivalent external pump in the same price range with the same efficiency ratio.
Your overflow issue of not draining fast enough can be solved 3 ways:
1. New pump with less GPH
2. Ball valve on output to throttle back current pump (not recommended for some pumps as it may shorten pump life)
3. Larger overflow
You must decide what is best for you because that issue is a recipe for a flood!
Your overflow issue of not draining fast enough can be solved 3 ways:
1. New pump with less GPH
2. Ball valve on output to throttle back current pump (not recommended for some pumps as it may shorten pump life)
3. Larger overflow
You must decide what is best for you because that issue is a recipe for a flood!
Looks great... one concern though. What happens when you want to clean your pump (the Snapper Gold)? Since you don't have a ball valve on there, you'll have to drain your sump first. That's a big headache. Just my opinion, but if it were me, I would spend the extra $50 and buy a True Union Ball Valve for each side (input and output) of the pump.
Other than that, everything looks great. Wish I had the space for a 180.
-Scott
Other than that, everything looks great. Wish I had the space for a 180.
-Scott
bigtony901
New member
id like to go with the bigger overflow but not sure the best way to go about it. I have a ball valve on now but when i tune it down alittle it heats the water up really fast. I have two coraline 6 on it so i know i have good flow but Im trying to get the flow and overflow equivalant and just having a hard time doing so.
03LightningSVT
New member
Thanks Scott! The "big headache" of draining my sump is something I do on a regular basis anyway
My total system is about 250 gal = 180 in display + 45 in fuge + 40 in sump when running. I know that doesn't equal 250, but when you subtract for water displaced from rock/equipment and add water running through the plumbing, it's pretty close When I do a 20% water change, nearly all the water is removed from the sump. This also provides a great opportunity to siphon/clean the sump of any crud that got by the filter sock and skimmer and collected on the bottom of the sump. Cleaning my return pump only requires a normal water change and removal of the standard unions to access the pump. Your advice is good advice and I did consider True Union Ball Valves, but decided not to spend the extra $$$ on something I felt was not going to be used. Wish I had the space for a 500
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