180 relocation project
- Thread starter normanviking
- Start date
Wow Calvin, that's quite a span. 9 feet? What are you using for the header?
I tend to call anything that doesn't go to the top plate a jack stud, but the diagram is correct by calling the studs under a window cripple studs. Cripple studs don't support loads, except they will here because of the aquarium resting on them. Jacks are also called trimmers where I'm from.
The diagram Calvin added correctly shows the types of vertical supports and how they fit together, but don't refer to it as code as far as the number of studs needed to support a given load. That really depends on the amount of load the wall is actually supporting and local building codes. The local codes all use the International Residential Code, but places with heavy snow and wind loads usually add strength requirements. I'm not familiar with local Colorado codes.
I'm from a part of the country with harsh winters, so we don't skimp on supporting the roof because of snow loads. Construction lumber has gotten pretty lightweight in the past decade or so because of the faster growing trees they are using. Lighter means weaker. They actually toughened a lot of the codes for lumber used to bridge spans becasue of the weaker wood. Even so, if code calls for a 2x8 header, go with a 2x10 to prevent any kind of sagging problems down the road.
You could probably call the Pikes Peak Regional Building Department and find out what the minimum requirements for the width of headers and the number of each type of stud for the opening you have. Don't tell them you already cut it or they'll be visiting your house with a court summons.
Anyway with the load you're carrying on that wall it would be a really good idea to use the 2 king, 2 jack and maybe one cripple combo on each side of the opening. See below about the cripple. That should only be a total of six new 2x4's. You can probably reuse some of the boards you already have if you're careful and not have to get all six. Anyway, the total cost including the header is really cheap (maybe 30 bucks?) compared to the headache of repairing ceiling and wall drywall cracks and roof leaks when that all sags.
Since it looks like your wall opening is probably not the same length of your tank, a cripple isn't really necessary at the extreme ends of the opening, but you should definitely make sure to put one directly under each end of the tank to prevent stress fractures in the tank.
Anyway, it looks like Calvin knows how to swing a nailer, so you should be fine.
I tend to call anything that doesn't go to the top plate a jack stud, but the diagram is correct by calling the studs under a window cripple studs. Cripple studs don't support loads, except they will here because of the aquarium resting on them. Jacks are also called trimmers where I'm from.
The diagram Calvin added correctly shows the types of vertical supports and how they fit together, but don't refer to it as code as far as the number of studs needed to support a given load. That really depends on the amount of load the wall is actually supporting and local building codes. The local codes all use the International Residential Code, but places with heavy snow and wind loads usually add strength requirements. I'm not familiar with local Colorado codes.
I'm from a part of the country with harsh winters, so we don't skimp on supporting the roof because of snow loads. Construction lumber has gotten pretty lightweight in the past decade or so because of the faster growing trees they are using. Lighter means weaker. They actually toughened a lot of the codes for lumber used to bridge spans becasue of the weaker wood. Even so, if code calls for a 2x8 header, go with a 2x10 to prevent any kind of sagging problems down the road.
You could probably call the Pikes Peak Regional Building Department and find out what the minimum requirements for the width of headers and the number of each type of stud for the opening you have. Don't tell them you already cut it or they'll be visiting your house with a court summons.
Anyway with the load you're carrying on that wall it would be a really good idea to use the 2 king, 2 jack and maybe one cripple combo on each side of the opening. See below about the cripple. That should only be a total of six new 2x4's. You can probably reuse some of the boards you already have if you're careful and not have to get all six. Anyway, the total cost including the header is really cheap (maybe 30 bucks?) compared to the headache of repairing ceiling and wall drywall cracks and roof leaks when that all sags.
Since it looks like your wall opening is probably not the same length of your tank, a cripple isn't really necessary at the extreme ends of the opening, but you should definitely make sure to put one directly under each end of the tank to prevent stress fractures in the tank.
Anyway, it looks like Calvin knows how to swing a nailer, so you should be fine.
I have a bit of an engineering background, but my construction experience comes from framing a multi-level house with a friend and then building an addition onto my last house. You learn all kinds of stuff when you have to get a building permit and various inspections every step of the way. I actually had to rip out and replace the header over one large window opening because I used a header that was too small according to the inspector. The inspectors are very unforgiving. An inspector will never fail you if you exceed the minimum code, but they won't sign off on the inspection if you cut a single corner.
calvin415
New member
Not my house, just a file photo I found. 
Here's the 05 Pikes Peak Regional building code if you want to look into it further...
http://www.pprbd.org/codes/2005PPRBC.9.15.05-b.pdf
http://www.pprbd.org
Here's the 05 Pikes Peak Regional building code if you want to look into it further...http://www.pprbd.org/codes/2005PPRBC.9.15.05-b.pdf
http://www.pprbd.org
The building code link doesn't address header sizes. Anyway, I think it would be a great idea if you visited the regional building division before doing anything. Just tell them you're considering putting in a 6-7 foot window and want to know what the framing requirements would be for studs and the header.
calvin415
New member
Sorry, the second is suppose to be 3... I agree you still need jack studs but there is nothing written as to how many or how large of a header is needed. If he builds it to match the garage door opening that should be sufficient though... Were only talking a 6' opening, not a car size...
reefkoi
Premium Member
Dan, just when you thought framing was fun and you were ready to move the tank huh? 
It all comes down to peace of mind, I love overbuilding stuff, I never cry later, I hate shortcutting it and *****ing the rest of my life about how I "should" have done it.
I'd beef it way up, even if it cost me $100 in lumber I could sleep well at night. Like i said in my basement I bought a laminated board to make the header it was about 10.75" I think and was pretty expensive and that was just for a 5 foot window But thats supporting 2 levels of house also
It all comes down to peace of mind, I love overbuilding stuff, I never cry later, I hate shortcutting it and *****ing the rest of my life about how I "should" have done it.
I'd beef it way up, even if it cost me $100 in lumber I could sleep well at night. Like i said in my basement I bought a laminated board to make the header it was about 10.75" I think and was pretty expensive and that was just for a 5 foot window But thats supporting 2 levels of house also
normanviking
New member
You guys have very good points. I bought 2x10's and the plywood last night. The 2x10 is way bigger then any other lumber in this house. If you want Ican take a pic of the header they used. This house was built in the 50's here in widefield by potheads. Everything is half assed in here. I will add another king stud and redo the two peices that put a spacer in. Like Reefkoi said I would rather have more then not enough. I just did not want to take it to super overkilll level. You giys have opened my eyese a little more. Thanks for all the info.
Calvin, they have to be written somewhere. There are always requirements for headers, joists, and the like. You can't even build a little deck without considering the supporting beam and joist length and width, and even the supporting beam size, and those are only built to support the weight of people, much less the weight of upper floors and a roof. That 2x10 will provide very good support, especially when it's nailed to a layer of plywood and another thickness of 2x10.
3 king studs around the garage door? Man, I'd better go look to make sure mine is ok!
3 king studs around the garage door? Man, I'd better go look to make sure mine is ok!
pouponfrance
New member
First.... don't tell your girlfriend a thing. I can't tell you how many times I've tried to fix VCRs or radios by taking them apart to dozens of tiny pieces and then realized that I had no clue as to what I was doing and would have to throw the thing away. Can't do that with the house though. You may want to throw the studs back in for now until you've figured out how to deal.
calvin415
New member
I know they have to be written, the issue is if they published them on the web...
I was able to find TX requirements, and based on these if he's using a pair of 2x10 with plywood center it should be more than fine for a 6' tank.
http://www.tdi.state.tx.us/wind/bldcode/4033.html#table40331a
normanviking
New member
I am going to run two king studs on each side. That is ok right?
Yes. You already have one on each side. Just nail another one to the existing stud on each side and you have two. They should fit snugly between the sole plate and the top plate.
Then add the jack studs under the header to support the roof weight that the header is supporting.
The goal is to have all of those vertical boards solidly supporting the weight above. That means the king and jack studs.
Then add the jack studs under the header to support the roof weight that the header is supporting.
The goal is to have all of those vertical boards solidly supporting the weight above. That means the king and jack studs.
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