180 was leaking . . . but it stopped?

iLLwiLL

Codename: Dutchess
I noticed a few weeks ago that I had a very slow leak coming from a bulkhead under my 180. I tried tightening it some, but diddn't want to over do it any and that diddn't help any. Then I went a little outlandish and used a tube of weterweld to try and stop it by placing a "patch" of sorts all around the bulkhead making a funnel shape between the tank bottom and the bulkhead, that diddn't help either . . . at first.

So I came to the realization that I would either have to drain the tank some and swap out a bulkhead (if thats all it was) or just go for an upgrade to a 225 which I have all lined up as of now. Today I finalized the details of the new tank and the "patch" around the bulkhead is bone dry where before water would slowly ooze out onto the exterior threads and down the PVC drain pipe.

Could the waterweld have just taken this long (over a week) to fully cure 100% if there was a slow stream of water it was trying to dry over? Could the waterweld + salt build up be the reason it stopped? Can I consider this fixed if its not leaking? Would really prefer not to have to spend the extra 800 if I diddn't have too on the new tank, or fix whats not broken (if thats the case).

Thanks in advance for any help.

~Will.
 
I noticed a few weeks ago that I had a very slow leak coming from a bulkhead under my 180. I tried tightening it some, but diddn't want to over do it any and that diddn't help any. Then I went a little outlandish and used a tube of weterweld to try and stop it by placing a "patch" of sorts all around the bulkhead making a funnel shape between the tank bottom and the bulkhead, that diddn't help either . . . at first.

So I came to the realization that I would either have to drain the tank some and swap out a bulkhead (if thats all it was) or just go for an upgrade to a 225 which I have all lined up as of now. Today I finalized the details of the new tank and the "patch" around the bulkhead is bone dry where before water would slowly ooze out onto the exterior threads and down the PVC drain pipe.

Could the waterweld have just taken this long (over a week) to fully cure 100% if there was a slow stream of water it was trying to dry over? Could the waterweld + salt build up be the reason it stopped? Can I consider this fixed if its not leaking? Would really prefer not to have to spend the extra 800 if I diddn't have too on the new tank, or fix whats not broken (if thats the case).

Thanks in advance for any help.

~Will.

I would keep a close eye on it. And keep the backup plans ready. It does not sound like it was losing to much water to start with but if it suddenly starts to get worse. It would be better to replace the bulk head for sure.
 
crappy thing is, the backup plan needs to happen today or not at all as there are other interested parties for the tank setup I like. I dont really have room for 2 tanks with 6' x 2' footprints in my house either, so it would be a real pain having both on hand. there are always more setups out there, but not many that will fit my stand perfectly and come with a bunch of extras.

~Will.
 
If the bulkhead is in an overflow, then I wouldn't rush out and buy a new tank unless you're looking for a reason to get a new tank.

Just drain the overflow, clean the glass very well where the bulkhead goes, and install a new one. Ensure that the gasket sits cleanly on the glass, and the plumbing attached it it isn't stressing it in any way. If the attached plumbing pulls the bulkhead laterally, a leak will most likely occur.
 
If the bulkhead is in an overflow, then I wouldn't rush out and buy a new tank unless you're looking for a reason to get a new tank.

Just drain the overflow, clean the glass very well where the bulkhead goes, and install a new one. Ensure that the gasket sits cleanly on the glass, and the plumbing attached it it isn't stressing it in any way. If the attached plumbing pulls the bulkhead laterally, a leak will most likely occur.

+1. I just went through this, but unfortunately, had a leak in my internal overflow box, an had to drain my tank to be able to switch out the bulk head. As long as you don't have the same problem, you should just be able to drain the box, and switch out the bulk head.
Mine had to be cut away. Sand and crap gets in there after time, and just locked up the threads. Could not get it off, had to cut it. Quite a pain. I'm going to siphon out my overflow once a month moving foward in hopes it doesn't happen again.
 
Should have been more specific, my tank has internal corner overflow boxes. Just to be on the safe side, I am considering adding a layer or 2 of pvc cement where the water weld meets the bulkhead and tank. Also, I will get a couple other bulkheads to keep on hand just in case something like this happens again and I cant stop the leak.

Thats a great idea to siphon out the overflow box, i got a big water change brewing and will definitely give this a shot.

~Will.
 
I am considering adding a layer or 2 of pvc cement where the water weld meets the bulkhead and tank.

That won't help, and may even make it worse. PVC cement isn't "glue" in the sense of epoxy, gorilla glue or other adhesives. It's a solvent. It softens the PVC allowing the joint to fuse together. Adding it to your leaking joint could actually soften it to the point of failure.

It's very likely that you had a hairline gap in a seal and salt creep sealed it. I'd keep an eye on it but it wouldn't worry me.
 
+1 on the saltcreep... the water starts to dry and as the salt builds up, it creates a seal, however if it leaks a bit more, it'll break the seal...

you could try to loosen it and readjust the gasket. Also, don't overtighten as the gasket can move out of place causing the leak
 
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