Ok so I've been out of the hobby for a while but just moved to my new house and looking to start again. I got all my equipment out of the old shed cleaned it up and getting everything ready to go. I have 2 75g tanks that I'm thinking of running side by side. 1 as a reef and the other as a fowlr. I want to run these to 1 sump. I would use 1 return pump split with ball valves on each side to control the flow. I know that both tanks would be affected by any disease introduced. Just wondering about any suggestions anybody may have. What size sump would you recommend or any equipment. Its gonna take a lil time to get this going because I got to build a new stand anyway. Just wanna wipe out any issues before I start this build and have everything planned out.
2 dt and 1 sump
- Thread starter Dnazta
- Start date
Reefmedic79
Life and Reef Saver
I think you may be better off to use a separate return pump for each tank, and I would make the sump as big as possible.
I know it has been done but I always wondered about how much time you would spend continuously adjusting valves ect running 2DT's into one sump. I don't know for sure and just a guess but ideally wouldn't it be best to connect the DT's together somehow as well to help maintain equal water levels in each?
Donkeykong
New member
I would go with two returns, that way you can work on each one independently without shutting down both systems, also if you had problems with one pump at least half of the system is still moving. I would also strive to make the sump as big as possible, not only will it need twice the room for extra water drainage in case of power outages, but it also needs to be able to support 150g of tank. I would think at least a 40gal. I am assuming you are going to have separate stands for each tank. You could have a sump under one stand with all filtration equipment and under the other tank you could have a dedicated refugium and then plumb both systems together.
This is the same type setup I am getting ready to do with my own tank.
I am taking my existing 180dt adding my old 120dt and piping it into a new 75g sump. The old 40g sump will replace my 10g QT.
The one pump idea is better for a few reasons.
One pump allows for taking a set amount of water out of the sump and put into the display. The sump will only handle as much as is removed. What this means is 200gph OUT of sump will result in 200 into sump. (Example only flow should be higher.) Placing a ball valve on the line will adjust the flow. ONE of the ball valves should be in the full open position at all times, this allows for the flow to continue unobstructed, and will not overload/pressure your return pump causing premature failure. Some people have placed a return back into the sump for overpowered pumps.
I am going to pipe it so that the regulated ball valve is on the smaller 120g because it is closer to the sump. The higher flow will go to the 180. I will have another T setup to pipe in a chiller in the future.
I have not decided on a pump yet, but it will most likely be a DC controllable pump to allow for fine tuning. I will most likely have a spare, but, later down the road.
Just remember that just like on a single dt/sump setup what leaves the sump is the same flow that will re-enter the sump. A dual DT has the same flow INTO the sump. More care will have to be maintained in water height as you will have more backflow from the further DT piping.
While some people still use backflow preventers, (not a good idea as it obstructs some flow) the odd snail may cause this to remain open and the pipe will allow it to fill back into the sump. As we should already have a vacuum break/hole in the pipe to prevent syphoning anyway, this water will only be what is in the pipe(s).
For me, 75g sump will most likely have about 20g free space to allow for this additional uptake of water.
I have owned a UV filter for a while and I have never even unpacked it. Correct husbandry and housekeeping should prevent any disease in our systems. With a one DT approach that disease is still in the system. To worry about this would be better served by keeping the systems separate. The increased water volume will allow for slower fluctuations and hopefully quicker noticing of out of balance parameters.
A recommendation on the pipes: Make them all have a pitch toward the sump to prevent any air restricting the flow. In the event that you have to do any maintenance you will not have a rush of water soak you during a pump change.
I am getting closer to starting the addition, and I will document it in my 180 thread in the Large Tank section.
I am taking my existing 180dt adding my old 120dt and piping it into a new 75g sump. The old 40g sump will replace my 10g QT.
The one pump idea is better for a few reasons.
One pump allows for taking a set amount of water out of the sump and put into the display. The sump will only handle as much as is removed. What this means is 200gph OUT of sump will result in 200 into sump. (Example only flow should be higher.) Placing a ball valve on the line will adjust the flow. ONE of the ball valves should be in the full open position at all times, this allows for the flow to continue unobstructed, and will not overload/pressure your return pump causing premature failure. Some people have placed a return back into the sump for overpowered pumps.
I am going to pipe it so that the regulated ball valve is on the smaller 120g because it is closer to the sump. The higher flow will go to the 180. I will have another T setup to pipe in a chiller in the future.
I have not decided on a pump yet, but it will most likely be a DC controllable pump to allow for fine tuning. I will most likely have a spare, but, later down the road.
Just remember that just like on a single dt/sump setup what leaves the sump is the same flow that will re-enter the sump. A dual DT has the same flow INTO the sump. More care will have to be maintained in water height as you will have more backflow from the further DT piping.
While some people still use backflow preventers, (not a good idea as it obstructs some flow) the odd snail may cause this to remain open and the pipe will allow it to fill back into the sump. As we should already have a vacuum break/hole in the pipe to prevent syphoning anyway, this water will only be what is in the pipe(s).
For me, 75g sump will most likely have about 20g free space to allow for this additional uptake of water.
I have owned a UV filter for a while and I have never even unpacked it. Correct husbandry and housekeeping should prevent any disease in our systems. With a one DT approach that disease is still in the system. To worry about this would be better served by keeping the systems separate. The increased water volume will allow for slower fluctuations and hopefully quicker noticing of out of balance parameters.
A recommendation on the pipes: Make them all have a pitch toward the sump to prevent any air restricting the flow. In the event that you have to do any maintenance you will not have a rush of water soak you during a pump change.
I am getting closer to starting the addition, and I will document it in my 180 thread in the Large Tank section.
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