200DD equipment list and questions

[E.Rude]

I'm working on getting equipment for a 200DD build that will start in August when I move. The tank and stand will be purchased after I move in, but I already have the $ set aside for them. I just don't want to have to move the tank (twice, actually)

What I have:
(2) ReefBreeders Photon 32's
(2) VorTech MP40wES
200Lbs LR
Tunze osmolator ATO
30B for sump (skimmer-fuge-return configuration)
20L for ATO reservoir
GEO 618 Calcium Reactor w/ feed pump, regulator and 5 lb CO2 bottle
Milwaukee pH controller
TLF Phosban Reactor 550 w/ feed pump
Mag 18 return (don't think I'll be using it though)
(3) DJ power strips
(1) Korallia 1 for flow in the 2nd overflow w/ emergency drain and return plumbing
(1) refractometer
(1) Kati/Ani unit

40B QT with MP10wES, heaters, light, and Red Sea Prism Pro skimmer

Here's my shopping list: any things you think I should change or consider, please let me know
(1) Skimz SM201... will purchase in a month or so
(2) 250w Jager heaters...planning on getting these after my vacation in a few weeks
(1) Eheim Compact+ 5000 pump for the return. (Compact and controllable from 660-1320gph) I want a quiet pump that will do 600gph through the sump
(1) fuge light, not sure what brand
(2)gate valves and various plumbing parts. I'm going to do a full siphon and open channel in one overflow, emergency drain and return in the other overflow.
(2) in-line GFCI's. I'm moving to an apartment building so I can't go changing the actual receptacles. I'm hoping these will be a safe substitute.
1" conduit for light hanging

Also need test kits. Used to use API but want to invest in better tests.

How does that look?

I want everything to fit in the stand. I've drawn it out on graphing paper (I'm no good at CAD programs) and it works out in theory. Once concern I have is the 30B sump. I figure I'll have roughly 15 gallons of back-flow space. Since I've never had a RR tank before, I'm wondering: will I only have to worry about the amount of water that drains from the one overflow (with full siphon) that will break the siphon? Also, I know I have to consider the backflow from the return, but if I put a siphon break IN the overflow, then in theory I wouldn't have to worry about the surface area of the tank, no?

 

[ca1ore]

Read through your list, and even before I got to the end a 30B as a sump raised a red flag for me. It's a bit small. I generally advocate no smaller than 25% of display volume. I run a 75 on a 265 that I'd view as barely adequate.

 

[Themonsterisme]

The 30b sump was also first thing I saw that was a potential red flag...I run a 75 gal on a 225 gal system and only reason I don't have a 100 gal sump is the size limits of my stand...I would use a bigger sump if I were you

 

[Finland]

What caught my eye, was the 2 photon32 fixtures on a 36 wide tank. I have them over my 180 and love them. Only issue is coverage. You may want to ad some t5s for better coverage. And as already mentioned, the sump is too small.

 

[E.Rude]

It's tricky trying to get all the equipment in the stand. I might be able to get away with a 40B sump, which is what I originally planned. The internal H of the stand is 25.5"...a 40B is 16" and the skimmer is 9.4 X 9.4"... leaves 0.1" for skimmer removal, which I'm fine with as long as it actually works.

Believe me, I would love to be able to have a large sump/fuge, but I have to work within the restraints of the stand. If the 40B will actually work, then that's what I'll use... still not as big as I'd like, but better than the 30B

 

[E.Rude]

What caught my eye, was the 2 photon32 fixtures on a 36 wide tank. I have them over my 180 and love them. Only issue is coverage. You may want to ad some t5s for better coverage. And as already mentioned, the sump is too small.

I've been asking around about this for a few weeks. I plan on hanging the lights front-to-back, as opposed to the usual side-to-side. Each light will have to cover a 3'X2' area. How is your front-to-back light spread on your 180? I realize I might have to get supplemental lighting, but as long as there's not real bad shadowing, I will just be very conscious of coral placement.

 

[easttexas]

If you hang them front to back, you'll need a third one. I might suggest hanging them normal and supplementing with the t5 like said above. Or hang them higher to spread the light, but sps might not be possible on the bottom. You might want to look into the jeboa DC water pumps. The dc6000 is more flow than your asking for (but is adjustable). Is dead quite and uses half the electricity than the eihm at significantly less up front cost as well. Looking forward to reading your build as you go

 

[Finland]

I've been asking around about this for a few weeks. I plan on hanging the lights front-to-back, as opposed to the usual side-to-side. Each light will have to cover a 3'X2' area. How is your front-to-back light spread on your 180? I realize I might have to get supplemental lighting, but as long as there's not real bad shadowing, I will just be very conscious of coral placement.

I mounted my fixtures end to end. I have 90degree optics and the fixtures are about a foot off the waterline. Without the t5's, the front and rear part of the tank had way too much shadowing for my liking. Some people take the optics off and have much better coverage. I have never tried.

 

[E.Rude]

If you hang them front to back, you'll need a third one. I might suggest hanging them normal and supplementing with the t5 like said above. Or hang them higher to spread the light, but sps might not be possible on the bottom. You might want to look into the jeboa DC water pumps. The dc6000 is more flow than your asking for (but is adjustable). Is dead quite and uses half the electricity than the eihm at significantly less up front cost as well. Looking forward to reading your build as you go

Thanks for your suggestions! I checked out that jeboa dc6000... it's more flow than I need and it's a little bigger than the eheim (need to save as much room in the sump as possible). I'll definitely keep it in mind as I continue to do my research. Nothing is set in stone....yet, lol

I mounted my fixtures end to end. I have 90degree optics and the fixtures are about a foot off the waterline. Without the t5's, the front and rear part of the tank had way too much shadowing for my liking. Some people take the optics off and have much better coverage. I have never tried.

I have 90* and 120* optics on mine. I'll have to see how these work out. It might be smart for me to get a par meter if I'm going to try and get away with just these two fixtures. It seems pointless to get a third fixture only to hang it right above the center cross brace. I might consider selling the two that I have and buying two Photon 48s. I'm hoping that I can save the expense of getting new lights, though. I just bought these like 2 months ago for my 125 that I just tore down