20g of solid starfire - My tank build and DIY
- Thread starter Kimberly63
- Start date
Kimberly63
New member
Re: Tank
Re: Tank
Thanks! I actually have it up and running as of yesterday. All that's in the tank is sand and water right now. I should have pictures up soon.
I bought my glass from PDC Glass where I used to work. They only sell to distributors and contractors for construction like city sky-scrapers.
Re: Tank
Thanks! I actually have it up and running as of yesterday. All that's in the tank is sand and water right now. I should have pictures up soon.
I bought my glass from PDC Glass where I used to work. They only sell to distributors and contractors for construction like city sky-scrapers.
Kimberly63
New member
Thanks! I can't wait either
cloakerpoked
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15067846#post15067846 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Misled
I didn't!!!!!
Believe it or not (and I can't believe it myself), I actually got mine all tight enough on my 72 build now that I didn't need to use any silicon this time. Of course, it's only been running for 2 weeks now, so who knows if it's real or not....
Back on topic, Kim, the tank is looking great!
Kimberly63
New member
Well, I didn't do a whole lot on the tank but boy, I got lots of pictures! Here's a bunch of random pictures of my tank while doing the tap-water test:
Lots of microbubbles
I adjusted the loc-line to hit right on the water surface because I don't have a stop valve on my return yet. I don't have too much surface agitation so it really doesn't bother me. When I get clams, I'll add a stop valve and adjust the loc-line so I can see better top-down.
Overflow is really quiet - I'm very pleased.
Lots of microbubbles
I adjusted the loc-line to hit right on the water surface because I don't have a stop valve on my return yet. I don't have too much surface agitation so it really doesn't bother me. When I get clams, I'll add a stop valve and adjust the loc-line so I can see better top-down.
Overflow is really quiet - I'm very pleased.
Kimberly63
New member
Sump:
I had my desklamp so I could see inside to look at my bulkheads. It's dark in there!
Next was to make my door. I hate curves and I wanted this stand to be as square as possible so I wanted minimal design and kinda modern/contemporary looking. I decided I didn't want trim on the door because it would be a bit much for me. I didn't even want trim on the stand but I didn't think about my design well enough before I started and needed the trim.
I went with 1/2" birch - 25"x 15". 3/4" is standard for cupboard doors but it was too thick for me. I sanded the edges for the birch laminate tape.
The tape comes in 3/4" inch so it needed to be trimmed after being applied. They make a handy trimmer that trims the excess off in one swipe but I wasn't paying $20 for the stupid thing so I did it by hand and a razor blade (only cut myself once).
I had my desklamp so I could see inside to look at my bulkheads. It's dark in there!
Next was to make my door. I hate curves and I wanted this stand to be as square as possible so I wanted minimal design and kinda modern/contemporary looking. I decided I didn't want trim on the door because it would be a bit much for me. I didn't even want trim on the stand but I didn't think about my design well enough before I started and needed the trim.
I went with 1/2" birch - 25"x 15". 3/4" is standard for cupboard doors but it was too thick for me. I sanded the edges for the birch laminate tape.
The tape comes in 3/4" inch so it needed to be trimmed after being applied. They make a handy trimmer that trims the excess off in one swipe but I wasn't paying $20 for the stupid thing so I did it by hand and a razor blade (only cut myself once).
Kimberly63
New member
The laminate tape is used so you won't see the layers of laminate on the board. By using the tape it covers it up and thus looks like a solid piece of birch. The tape is applied by a clothes iron. I just made sure the tape was lined up perfect along the viewable side of the door and you adjust the iron on cotton setting and just iron on. If you screw up you can apply heat so it'll soften the adhesive and move the tape where you want it.
After the tape was applied, and trimmed down, the door was ready for stain and poly! I then gave it a couple days to dry. For the record, I only bought the sponge brush just in case and used it one time. I don't normally use brushes to stain - just old rags. I think it works a lot better.
Next I needed to get hinges. I went with the 1/2" overlays so I wouldn't need a magnetic closure to hold the door in place. When you get these hinges, you have to make sure the door is cut 1 inch wider than your opening on each side or you will have an off-center door. Like if your opening is 20" wide, get the door cut 22" wide. The color of the hinges are a brushed copper and they look sweet with the stain color. The only thing I need left for the build is my door handle. I'm waiting for lowes to get it in. I ordered a handle that I got in yesterday - it's a seahorse and I thought it'd look really cool but it looks girly so I'm not gonna use it. Plus I couldn't get one in to match the color of my hinges.
Since Minwax hole filler is a joke and doesn't harden nor match the stain color, I was told to remove it and use a hardening putty that's a neutral color and stain it. I'll do that someday when I have nothing better to do.
After the tape was applied, and trimmed down, the door was ready for stain and poly! I then gave it a couple days to dry. For the record, I only bought the sponge brush just in case and used it one time. I don't normally use brushes to stain - just old rags. I think it works a lot better.
Next I needed to get hinges. I went with the 1/2" overlays so I wouldn't need a magnetic closure to hold the door in place. When you get these hinges, you have to make sure the door is cut 1 inch wider than your opening on each side or you will have an off-center door. Like if your opening is 20" wide, get the door cut 22" wide. The color of the hinges are a brushed copper and they look sweet with the stain color. The only thing I need left for the build is my door handle. I'm waiting for lowes to get it in. I ordered a handle that I got in yesterday - it's a seahorse and I thought it'd look really cool but it looks girly so I'm not gonna use it. Plus I couldn't get one in to match the color of my hinges.
Since Minwax hole filler is a joke and doesn't harden nor match the stain color, I was told to remove it and use a hardening putty that's a neutral color and stain it. I'll do that someday when I have nothing better to do.
Kimberly63
New member
Next I applied a brace/bracket thing on the back, right-hand side behind the overflow to hold the conduit for the light. It's made for 3/4" and holds the pipe in place but it's not too snug so it's perfect to swing the light out of the way when I'm messing around in the tank. I've hit the fixture with my hand a few times and kinda fried it. No, not pleasant.
When I bought sand I originally wanted fiji pink sand because it's a fine grade sand but I got this crap sand that has massive chunks of shell and other stuff that discolors to a greenish gray like live rock does and makes the sandbed look dirty so I made a lot of work for myself, and used a fine strainer and strained out all the stuff that isn't sugar-sized. The sand used to be live sand but that was well over a year ago so I washed it in distilled water in a bucket and then strained it.
I moved my light over to the tank to see how it would look and I think it looks pretty good. Super- bright.
I put the sand in the tank then added distilled water. I have roughly 24-25 gallons in the tank and sump combined. I then added my salt to the display and let it mix up. I don't have large enough buckets for mixing 25 gallons of water so I just dumped it in. After I got my salinity to the right levels and waited about a day, I seeded the sand with some sand from my other tank. I had to do this because I don't have any new live rock yet (i'm broke-donations are welcome). I'll probably add one or two pieces of rock total before I transfer my 10g over.
Sand dunes
Now I'll just sit back and wait until I get my rock and just let everything take it's course. After the cycle, I'll probably seed the tank with different pods and setup my fuge with macro and get a cheap light. I didn't want a deep sandbed but I might change my mind later. Not sure yet. I have time to decide though.
Next I need to figure out a lid for the tank so I don't have anymore jumping fish - either a custom cut piece of 1/8" acrylic with drilled holes for air flow or netting. Not sure yet.
Well that's it for now. Here's an updated pic of my clown. My other one jumped and died since I wasn't home and accidentally left the lid off. He buddied up with my blenny so it's quite cute.
When I bought sand I originally wanted fiji pink sand because it's a fine grade sand but I got this crap sand that has massive chunks of shell and other stuff that discolors to a greenish gray like live rock does and makes the sandbed look dirty so I made a lot of work for myself, and used a fine strainer and strained out all the stuff that isn't sugar-sized. The sand used to be live sand but that was well over a year ago so I washed it in distilled water in a bucket and then strained it.
I moved my light over to the tank to see how it would look and I think it looks pretty good. Super- bright.
I put the sand in the tank then added distilled water. I have roughly 24-25 gallons in the tank and sump combined. I then added my salt to the display and let it mix up. I don't have large enough buckets for mixing 25 gallons of water so I just dumped it in. After I got my salinity to the right levels and waited about a day, I seeded the sand with some sand from my other tank. I had to do this because I don't have any new live rock yet (i'm broke-donations are welcome). I'll probably add one or two pieces of rock total before I transfer my 10g over.
Sand dunes
Now I'll just sit back and wait until I get my rock and just let everything take it's course. After the cycle, I'll probably seed the tank with different pods and setup my fuge with macro and get a cheap light. I didn't want a deep sandbed but I might change my mind later. Not sure yet. I have time to decide though.
Next I need to figure out a lid for the tank so I don't have anymore jumping fish - either a custom cut piece of 1/8" acrylic with drilled holes for air flow or netting. Not sure yet.
Well that's it for now.
Here's an updated pic of my clown. My other one jumped and died since I wasn't home and accidentally left the lid off. He buddied up with my blenny so it's quite cute.
Kimberly63
New member
Well, I have tons of livestock in my 10g and there is just no more room! I can't wait to transfer it all over
I guess I could be tank of the month since I decide who gets it
I guess I could be tank of the month since I decide who gets it
Kimberly63
New member
The glass is 1/4".
I won't say how much the gass cost since I worked there and got it so cheap, but it was pieces that were to be scrapped so I got them for practically nothing. My overflow glass was free and holes cost $2 each. Polishing was .05 per inch. I calculated having them polish only exposed edges but it was easier for them to put all the edges through so those edges were free. If I'd known I was getting laid off, I would have bought more glass.
I won't say how much the gass cost since I worked there and got it so cheap, but it was pieces that were to be scrapped so I got them for practically nothing. My overflow glass was free and holes cost $2 each. Polishing was .05 per inch. I calculated having them polish only exposed edges but it was easier for them to put all the edges through so those edges were free. If I'd known I was getting laid off, I would have bought more glass.
cloakerpoked
New member
What size pieces normally are constituted as scrap? I'm just curious so that we can have some kind of idea what would be realistic to buy stock, and what we could go to a glass manufacturer and ask for scraps.
Kimberly63
New member
A glass manufacturer will not sell to someone on the street beside contractors or distributors, nor will they sell scraps. They will destroy scrap glass before they sell it to someone else. They only did this because I was an employee. And they shatter the glass when they put it in the dumpsters so it can't be taken out and used.
If I broke a pane of glass on my tank, it would be next to impossible to get another piece unless I ordered it from Lowes or another place that sells glass. I'd never get the same deal as before since I was let go. An estimator there liked me so he requested that I get scrap left over from a big job that we did before it was destroyed. He had to special request it on the floor before production.
I think starfire glass from a store is around $10 per square foot.
cloakerpoked
New member
Can you buy starfire glass at Lowes, and would that be for 1/4" or for 1/2" glass?
Kimberly63
New member
No Lowes does not carry starfire and won't order it. I've asked. You'd have to probably go to a specialty shop.
I think that price would be for 3/8" - 1/4" and that's just a guess. It really depends on their markup system. That would also be for just raw glass, no tempering, no polishing, nothing.
If you wanted to do a front pane only for a tank, 1/4" you'd probably pay around $50 or so? I'm not really sure. If you go thicker, it's so much more expensive. You might pay $15-$20 per hole if you have them drill it. I'm not sure of the cost of tempering. Polishing would probably be $1 per inch.
Get an estimate from glasscages.com. They would have a close estimate on how much it would cost. I think they have a breakdown of prices on there.
I think that price would be for 3/8" - 1/4" and that's just a guess. It really depends on their markup system. That would also be for just raw glass, no tempering, no polishing, nothing.
If you wanted to do a front pane only for a tank, 1/4" you'd probably pay around $50 or so? I'm not really sure. If you go thicker, it's so much more expensive. You might pay $15-$20 per hole if you have them drill it. I'm not sure of the cost of tempering. Polishing would probably be $1 per inch.
Get an estimate from glasscages.com. They would have a close estimate on how much it would cost. I think they have a breakdown of prices on there.
Kimberly63
New member
Well on friday I went and got two pieces (around 1.5lbs) of cured live rock from the lfs. I put them in the tank and let it do it's thing. I did a water change on the 10g and put that water in the 20g. Saturday morning, I had a wet floor from the 20g. I lost about 2 gallons of water from the sump because there is a leak somewhere. I emptied the sump, took it out and replaced it with a large bucket. It'll have to work for now until I get the sump fixed.
I also moved a large colony of zoanthids from the 10g into the 20g to see how they'd do and they are doing fine. I guess once I get a top made (hopefully this week) I'll move everything over. I made a cover for my overflow this weekend too which I'll post pics of later.
Nothing else exciting going on. Just waiting to see if I have a cycle of some sort. It's been 7 days since I added water and sand to the tank and 3 days since I added the rock.
I also moved a large colony of zoanthids from the 10g into the 20g to see how they'd do and they are doing fine. I guess once I get a top made (hopefully this week) I'll move everything over. I made a cover for my overflow this weekend too which I'll post pics of later.
Nothing else exciting going on. Just waiting to see if I have a cycle of some sort. It's been 7 days since I added water and sand to the tank and 3 days since I added the rock.
