20L macro tank

[xrayjeeper83]

So I'm setting up a 20L for my green spotted puffer that will be tied into my 75g tanks sump. I'm thinking about making it a macro tank.

I'm googling what I can, but I'm wonder what advice y'all can give me. Depth of sand, light(I've got a 30in 4 bulb t5 to use), etc

 

[Subsea]

If your tank was standing alone, I would recommend 1" of coarse arogonite. This substrate will support nitrifying bacteria to process ammonia and nitrite. Macro will process ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.simultaneously. During lights out, when pH drops, arogonite will begin to dissolve at a pH of 8.1. Buffering and trace mineral addittion happen automatically.
Your lights are more than adequate. In some of my lagoons, I use 2 bulb T5 fixture with PAR values at 50.

 

[Don Quixote]

If your tank was standing alone, I would recommend 1" of coarse arogonite. This substrate will support nitrifying bacteria to process ammonia and nitrite. Macro will process ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.simultaneously. During lights out, when pH drops, arogonite will begin to dissolve at a pH of 8.1. Buffering and trace mineral addittion happen automatically.
Your lights are more than adequate. In some of my lagoons, I use 2 bulb T5 fixture with PAR values at 50.

Subsea has given you a crash-course on lagoon setups.
The only thing I would add is to run an open air tube to maintain pH during dusk hours. Aragonite will eventually deplete and either the substrate will have to be replaced or this method used (or ones like it). Combining both is also an option, though with a stable pH nothing beneficial leaches.

 

[xrayjeeper83]

Since I work late shift and get home at midnight, I was thinking of running the lights on the 20long opposite the 75 DT. This will help with the PH swings correct?

 

[Don Quixote]

Since I work late shift and get home at midnight, I was thinking of running the lights on the 20long opposite the 75 DT. This will help with the PH swings correct?

Yes, if there is no lighting in the communal sump.

 

[xrayjeeper83]

No light in the sump at all

 

[Subsea]

Subsea has given you a crash-course on lagoon setups.
The only thing I would add is to run an open air tube to maintain pH during dusk hours. Aragonite will eventually deplete and either the substrate will have to be replaced or this method used (or ones like it). Combining both is also an option, though with a stable pH nothing beneficial leaches.

What is an open air tube?

Even though reef keeping 101 says pH swings are bad, I question the wisdom. It is not that way in nature. Every time the sun goes down over a reef, the pH of the water starts coming down. I suspect this lower pH serves more purposes than dissolving trace minerals, but that is an important one.
Patrick