210g replacement plastic support

a1amap

New member
The tank I have needs a new top support the existing one has a crack. I can't remember if the crack was there before but my wife says it was. There is no brand on the tank that I can see. It is the standard 72x24x30h. I have a friend who could make me a stainless steal one if needed. I planned on pulling the existing plastic support anyway to re-silicone the inside. Does any one know a place to get replacements? If the cost is not that bad I will replace it otherwise I will have my friend make one and silicone it into place.

I am going to hd today because I remember a food grade silicone that was there before and I wanted to get an mds sheet. I know I could use regular silicone but this was stronger and had better hold power the regular silicone. I used this on the bar to seal around the chicago bar rail. The only draw back seems to be it dries very fast. I barely had time to get the job cleaned up before it was setting up. Because its food grade I would think it would be as good or better the regular silcone. I will post more info on this later.
 
Almost forgot, How about a pic

FishTank031.jpg


The fact that there are 3 of them leads me to believe that it may have froze but I kind of remember them and my wife says they were there. They are evenly spaced too. I can't remember that far back.
 
One of the things I will need for the tank will be a skimmer capable of keeping up with the extra bio-load. I like the AquaC ev-240. Does anyone have any suggestions?

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I have only seen 2 mods for the skimmer and 1 is now incorporated into the new design and the other was using a larger pump.

http://www.proteinskimmer.com/EV240.pdf
The biggest hurdle to this and all skimmers of larger size is the increased power consumption. The pumps for this skimmer use 110 to 150 + watts and have a gph rating of 800 to 1200 gph. The lower gph model pumps are pressure rated and the larger gph are internal sump models non-pressure rated.

The main goal during this upgrade is not to use any additional electricity over the course of the month. That’s going to be hard. I will have to eliminate my MH and VHO and use T5 instead. The tank is 6 ft long so I think I will use 10 x 3’ bulbs at 39 watts. The 390 watts would only be for a couple of hours as I planned on having the lights come on staggered. My 2 MH use 150 watts for 4 hours per day and my 2 VHO use 220 watts for 12 hours. If I use icecap ballasts I can get a lot of play in the combo of lights.

4 T5 bulbs x 6h = 936
8 T5 bulbs x 3h = 936
10 T5 bulbs x 2h = 780 or a total of 2652 watts per day
Compared to:
2 VHO bulbs x 12h = 2640
2 MH bulbs x 4 h = 600 or a total of 3240 watts per day.
This will net me 588 watts to use on the skimmer.

I also don’t plan on a heavy stocked fish tank but I will have tangs. I think I will have the skimmer on a timer to run only at night for 12 hours. That’s why I want a very effective skimmer. Also night time electricity rates are lower.

My current skimmer:
55 watts x 24 h = 1320
The new skimmer:
145 watts x 12 h = 1740 or an increase of 420 watts per day
Because of the 588 watts I saved on the lights I can even increase the hours run if needed.

I plan on using the more energy efficient pump on the skimmer but I also will have to re-think my current closed loop system. I need more flow so I think as a quick fix I will put eductors on the output to increase flow. They say you will get between 4 to 6 x the flow but I will settle for 3 x.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2003/review.htm
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23750&page=3
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1214501&highlight=eductor

I also will try a new idea that kaptken mentioned and create a vortex instead of a random flow. Remember when you are in the pool and you would run around in a circle to get a whirlpool to form. It’s the same thing; remember trying to stop and the flow would pull you along. Most of the energy of the random flow is lost in the colliding or the water streams. The only variation will be the use of 2 pumps and timers. The whirlpool will move one direction for 6 hours then switch. This will keep my current watts usage and give me more flow. Besides I always like to try something new.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1307199

Those cracks are perfectly straight, sure they aren't suppose to be there?
I don't think so there are 3 and although 2 are streight on is a slighty crocked.

I will post more as time is available.
PS Don’t forget skimmer recommendations?
 
Although I would love to do this with this tank I just don't have a wall where this will work.

living_room_1_002.jpg


I think it will go alond the bar wall where it will be more visable to the room. Where it is currently it can only be seen from the bar. The wall where my tank is now will be removed and rebuilt 18" back to give more bar room. The door will be relocated to where the tank is and the tank will be centered on the wall perpendicular to the bar.

FishTank008.jpg


This will allow for expansion of a frag tank and an above tank fuge.
 
Well, it could be repaired. Contact the tank manufacturer to find the exact type of plastic the frame is made of. Then go here to get the correct glue.
http://www.rplastics.com/plac.html?gclid=CMPCl_6Rk4oCFRk7UAodQgfOjQ

Consult the chart in one of the items to find the correct glue, or call them. Then clamp the tank a little to try and bring the cracks together, then glue with and overlay/lap joint of thicker similar material , or Some material compatible with the glue.

Or if not happy with that. You could build a metal frame to fit snuggly over the top and secure. So the sides and corners will not spread. Stainless steel or marine aluminum would work. Weld together and shim to fit.

Or if you dont like that and want something more antique and asthetic: Watch a rerun of the old Nick Nolte/Debra winger classic movie: Cannery Row. Nic played the part of Doc, a marine biologist, who made his own salt water research tanks for OCTOPI !! He used plate glass held together with oak frames and threaded tie rods and lock nuts. Seams sealed with tar pitch. But silly-con will do.

After seeing the movie, I have always wanted a tank like that.
 
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There is no way I am going to repair it. Don't want to take a chance. Iwill either have my friend make a 1/4 stainless band with 1 cross brace or replace the plastic if it can be found. I will have to wait to get some help to turn the tank over but I beleive its an Oceanic.
 
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/1/aafeature
Gyre Tanks Figure 2 This horizontal gyre tank produced flow speeds between 15-22cm/s.
figure2.jpg

A gyre tank encourages the maximum amount of water motion momentum because it contains a divider to essentially turn the tank into a circuit. This specialized aquarium constricts the cross section of the water’s path so that all of the water is evenly moving in the same direction. A setup like this mostly dispenses with rock or other ornaments on one face of the divider so it reduces friction with the usual aquarium reef structure for at least one side of the flow’s fetch. The divider stretches nearly the entire length of the aquarium and it can be placed either horizontally or vertically. In a vertical setup, the divider rests on the middle of the bottom of the aquarium and it projects out of the water surface. In a horizontal setup, the divider is flush with the middle of the front and back panes of the aquarium glass. A vertical gyre tank is good for keeping tall coral species such as gorgonians, arborescent soft corals and tall staghorn corals. This type of aquarium can be more aesthetic because it is easy to hide the pumps and flow outlets behind the divider of the aquarium and it preserves the viewing area of the tank. However, since the water mass of a vertical gyre is always in contact with the bottom of the aquarium and the surface of the water, it has more potential to develop velocity shear with faster flow at the top and slower flow at the bottom. In a horizontal gyre tank the powerheads or flow outlets are placed underneath the divider and they are aligned in a horizontal plane. This setup preserves the original actual surface area of the aquarium but it does so at the expense of the height of the aquarium. The larger surface area and closer proximity to the lighting source makes the horizontal gyre tank ideal for concentrated efforts of coral culture.
Figure 2 is an example of a horizontal gyre tank which I built for stony coral culture. The aquarium is 33 gallons, 4 feet long, 14 inches wide and 12 inches tall. The divider was made out of two pieces of dark plexiglass which were overlapped in the center. Both pieces of the divider were unattached and I found that I could vary the speed of the water flow by adjusting the distance of the gap between the divider and end faces of the aquarium glass. The water movement was provided by one Seio 820 pump on one side and two Maxi-jet 1200’s on the other side. A Chauvet light timer was used to alternate power between the pumps for 5 to 15 minutes to each side. Since the water flow was so unidirectional in this long aquarium, it was very simple to measure flow speed. Water velocity was calculated by adding neutrally buoyant particles to the water and timing how long it took for them to travel across a distance of the aquarium. Using this technique I was able to measure water flow speeds between 15-22cm/s throughout the entire aquarium. These velocities are within the range of ideal flow speeds for optimum particle capture, respiration and photosynthesis of many corals. Figure 3 is an image of a vertical gyre tank built and designed my Michael Janes of Aquatouch. Mr Janes is an octocoral specialist and he refers to his design as a laminar flow tank. He designed the aquarium to produce ideal flow conditions while still maintaining enough vertical space to accommodate tall soft coral species such as gorgonians. Although this aquarium was designed primarily as a proof of concept, Mr. Janes continues to work with this type of gyre tank for studying octocoral species.
figure3.jpg

Figure 3 A vertical gyre tank (a.k.a. laminar flow tank) designed to accommodate tall coral species. Photo by Michael Janes.
Gyres in Reef AquariumsAn aquarium does not necessarily need a divider to produce gyres of the water mass. Although the water movement will not be as complete and uniform as it is with a gyre tank, it is still advantageous to encourage water movement to follow a circuitous path. In a reef aquarium with live rock and coral on the bottom, the water surface of the aquarium provides the least resistance to moving water. Because of the lack of friction, moving water which is directed in this region will produce the most momentum of the water mass. If there is an even transport of the surface water from one side of the aquarium to the other, the entire water mass should begin to gain momentum as it is moved at both ends. At one end of the aquarium, the water will begin to “pile up” and then sink down. At the other end, water will rise up to replace the volume which is displaced by the water motion. Although it is easiest to create gyres which follow the top and bottom surfaces of the aquarium, this is not the only way to create gyres. Figure 4 is a photo of a 180 gallon aquarium with an overflow drain right in the center of the tank. This aquarium contained a modest amount of live rock and it was circulated by encouraging mass water movement around the center overflow. Once again a Chauvet light timer was used to alternate the flow between two circuits of powerheads. Each circuit contained pumps which were diagonal to each other and in this fashion the force of both pumps were working together to move the entire water mass. The center overflow was not necessarily the most aesthetic design but it was very easy to spin water around it using only very modest water pumps.
figure4.JPG
Figure 4 Because this 180 gallon was circulated using mass water movement techniques, only modest equipment was required to produce adequate water motion.
Not only can mass water movement techniques help aquarists produce higher water flow speeds in the aquarium but it can also encourage more water movement through the interstices of live rock and corals with open growth forms. Normally an aquarist might target one or more plumes of water movement at corals which require fast water flow speeds. In this scenario, the turbulent water flow plume encounters a lot of friction on its way to the desired location of the reef aquarium: it will experience resistance from the still water around it, it will experience drag from the shape of the corals it encounters and the turbulent nature of the water flow plume will do little to preserve the momentum of the water movement. In a scenario with the employment of mass water movement, the behavior of the fluid will be much different. The plume of water motion from the same source will encounter less resistance from the water around it since both parcels of water are moving in the same direction. The decreased resistance will straighten out the flow and preserve more momentum. Not only will the water be moving faster once it reaches a coral, since water is moving away from the coral on the downstream end, water will be forced through the normally stagnant water which is present at the interior of corals with open growth forms. Figure 5 shows an aquarium where dense coral growth account for a significant portion of the aquarium’s cross section. When using mass water movement techniques in cases of dense coral growth, water flow speed can actually accelerate as more water is pushed through spaces with a smaller area. Aquarists who wish to encourage additional water movement at the inside of dense coral colonies will see great benefits from using mass water movement techniques.
Figure 5 An example of a mature reef aquarium which exhibits very dense stony coral growth.
ConclusionsThe reef aquarium hobby has a long way to go before our understanding of water flow catches up with what we know about reef aquarium lighting. Like the “Watts per Gallon” moniker that came before it, the use of “turnover rate” to describe water movement continues to cripple the progress of more advanced water movement techniques. By encouraging the formation of one or more gyres, aquarists are capable of producing more water movement in terms of overall water flow speed. Since higher flow speeds produce greater amounts of turbulence, this translates into increased gas exchange and higher rates of photosynthesis and respiration.
 
I really like the notion of the horizontal gyre. It would be really great on the main tank but not practical. I was planning on attaching a frag tank to the new system so this would work awesome for that.
 
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Not that I have that many years of experience, or that large of a display tank, but I have always used that lay out of water motion with just a large circling motion. Never knew it was a gyre tank until I heard Jake Adams lecture at the NJ frag swap, but it never really made sence to me that if we wanted more water flow and less power consumption that we would pin our power heads against each other for random flow.

I still think if you want random flow have a wave go through occasionally using a way box, but don't have power heads fight with each other.
 
I have decided on a slimmer. It will be the ASM G4x. It is rated up to 450 gallons so it will cover the main tank, sump, fuge, and the frag tank.
AG1195_1.jpg


The G4 x has the larger neck height (30")
And has the sedra 9000 pump
 
Looks sweet, can't wait for the first FTS. When can I help you start making the rock, so we can get this thing set up?

Jon
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11794301#post11794301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by a1amap
I really like the notion of the horizontal gyre. It would be really great on the main tank but not practical. I was planning on attaching a frag tank to the new system so this would work awesome for that.

I think that we tend to over complicate these things sometimes. As soon as you place your live rock in the center of your tank, and direct a powerhead behind it, you essentially created the gyre. The notion that a circuit of water only occurs in a tank with an artificial dividing wall seems flawed.

In my 125, I have four Koralia #4's that are layed out to offer a circular pattern in the flow of water from one end of the tank to the other, but on a vertical plane on either side of the rock. Basically I have one powerhead drawing water along the top of the tank, shile the other draws along the bottom in the opposite direction. On the back side of the tank, I have the same, only reversed. The first time you add a little Purple Up to the water (plug for my favorite misunderstood product), you can see the effect.

Kind of like Jon said, you just don't point powerheads at each other.
 
The divider was a novel idea but you are correct about the rock. In my display tank the rock will act as a divider but in my frag tank I plan on using the divider under the coral frags.


As of today my tank has been running skimmerless for 2+ weeks and has settled down. From the 3rd day till about 3 days ago there were no outward signs that anything had been changed. No algae or cyano. There was an oil that was on the surface of the water. If I disturbed it, it looked like egg whites being stired up. Today the oil is no longer there and the tank looks equal or better then before.
 
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Of the 3 tanks I have had including this one we havent run a skimmer yet and I havent had any major problems. Then again im not a colored sticks person so it doesnt make much diffence in my systems. Personally I prefer natural filtration using invertabrates such as xenia and sponges as well as macro algaes.
 
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