240 Inwall Construction (Image Intense)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11391905#post11391905 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Where have you heard that? 1400 is my personal goal, but I know it is higher than necessary.

I am sorry I cannot pinpoint how or where I exactly heard that. That's a position I have developed from reading about various successful tanks, where they keep there numbers, and various articles I have read on captive water chemistry. I hate to quote one source or article and make some claim anyway...we have enough of that on RC.

I have been keeping mine at 1450 since day one, and with little effort since both my salt and Ca media are very strong in Mg. Recently I have read some interesting stuff about having it at 1500+ will knock down certain nuisances as well. That came about from my researching my dino problem. I did temporarily bump it up to above 1500 and that is when the dinos receded, but I am not convinced that was the deciding factor. Too many variables to come to any conclusion there.
 
If I recall correctly, the super high levels of magnesium were in an effort to eradicate the evil Bryopsis algae. But, as far as I know, that is just until the algae has been eradicated and then normal levels are striven for.

Joseph.
 
Here's a good reference that I use provided by Randy Holmes-Farley from one of his many excellent reef chemistry articles...

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

458_parameters_chart.jpg


Joseph.
 
hmmmm...I thought Randy had recommended a higher Mg level. I either confused him with someone else or read it wrong. So this may bring up another question then. Would my having Mg above 1400 be a causitive factor in coraline growth? Maybe someone following this thread an answer that. I have been mystified by the coraline growth in my tank.

Thanks Joseph. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11392180#post11392180 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by weatherson
Here's a good reference that I use provided by Randy Holmes-Farley from one of his many excellent reef chemistry articles...

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

458_parameters_chart.jpg


Joseph.

I'd seen this chart a while ago, and I always try to keep within these ranges that Randy has recommended.

I can just keep my alk at 2.5meq/l, would like to get it a little higher, and magnesium above 1250ppm. I agree that stability is the key. Since I like the Seachem Reef salt, I use the Seachem test kits, and never have a problem.

I too have heard that keeping mag levels high, will help with a bryopsis problem, but I dont think I would run at elevated levels all the time. I read in one of the TOTM articles that elevated levels of trace elements can be toxic, so I now keep my levels set within the above parameters, just in case ;)

Cheers

Chris
 
jimney cricket weatherson,.... incredible! every single thing is absolutely incredible! you've got the magic touch, golden boy!
 
chrismunn: Golden boy? That's a totally new one but I'll definitely add it to the list of what I've been called before. ;) Seriously... thanks for the kind words and I'm glad you enjoyed.

Joseph.
 
well ide have probably enjoyed it more if i had started reading 3 years and 255 pages ago, but still very inspiring to say the least!

"all that he touches, turns to gold"

keep up the good work boss!
 
Hey Weatherson, your tank is very impressive, I LOVE the center section of your tank. I have one question though i was curious what your fish stock list was, your tank seems lightly stocked for a 240 just curious if it's for water quality purposes or some other reason.
 
mpruitt307: Thank you very much.

pdash: Thanks and the current fish list includes...

1 - Sailfin
1 - Yellow Tang
1 - Purple Tang
1 - Heniochus Butterflyfish
1 - Coral Beauty
4 - Pajama Cardinals
2 - Blue Chromis (had 12 at one point - they've slowly dwindled to the current two)
2 - Blue Damselfish
2 - Ocellaris Clownfish
1 - True Percula Clownfish (sadly, lost her mate during the anemone saga)
1 - Clown Goby(hitch-hiker but 4 tank-years old now)
1 - Yellow Coris Wrasse
1 - Sixline Wrasse

While I feel this level of fish (quantity as well as size of individuals overall) is adequate for my tank, I do have plans to add a pair of Kaurden's Cardinals (they bread in my old tank) and if I can ever actually find any, a small school of Yellow Chromis. Other than this, I am content with the group I currently have. They mostly serve critical purposes as far as maintenance but still provide visual movement/activity to counteract the static nature that is an SPS dominant tank full of pretty sticks. ;) In addition, I always have to consider the aggressiveness of the pair of Blue Damsels and Wrasses when considering adding more fish. But again, I'm content with this current group.

As a side note, a few of these guys have been with me for over 12-years now. I'd like to think there is a mutual fondness between us but somehow I think theirs is more food oriented. ;)

Joseph.
 
more than 12 years! golly, alot of people do the opposite having and killing 12 fish per year... very impressive indeed!
 
Dear Joseph,

1) Time for an update
2) I hate you and your amazing tank/DIY equipment/fishroom (everything about it makes everything I do look like child's play)

Love,
Quiksilver :D
 
Passive-aggressive flattery will definitely get you a response. ;) I'll have to get a new full tank shot for you but here's some activity of late...

I still continue to run a low calcium level in the tank but as mentioned not long ago, I am content with this as the corals are continuing to grow well and are seemingly very healthy. Their size doesn't make boosting calcium levels a necessity or priority unless I was to upgrade my tank, and that isn't going to happen anytime in the near future.

For the winter months, the water temperature is slowly lowered to my set 76-degree temperature dictated by the ACIII Pro. It's been running at this temp for a couple of months now and I can say that I feel this has accounted for the obvious coral coloration increase. They are simply more vivid than before. Now... I did change out my MH bulbs last September but the color increase didn't happen until months after and did so closer related to the temp change timing. Speaking of MH bulbs...

I have three DE 250's and two DE 400's over the tank. I switched these all the first week of September. The 250's are Hamilton 14K and the 400's are IceCap 20K's. These two different bulbs match almost exactly in color so they work well together. Anyway... about a month after replacing these bulbs, one of the 250's died. A call to the retailer ended with a replacement shortly after. But then, about a month later, a second Hamilton 250 died. This time, I contacted Hamilton directly to find if there was a bad batch of these bulbs. I was told that no others were reported. Hmm. So this second bulb was replaced by Hamilton. Fingers were crossed but sure enough, the third and final 250 died but this time I was present to witness the actual burn-out. I noticed a flicker so I immediately went to look at the bulb. After my eyes adjusted, I could see arcing from the inner bulb-end and then poof, it was dead. Another call to Hamilton still didn't get any evidence of any batch issues but the final bulb was also replaced. So far since then, the saga is over and I hope it remains so. We'll see but the replacements have exceeded the one month timing that seemed to plague the "bad" bulbs. Fingers crossed again. My hope is that it was in fact a bad batch because I really like these bulbs and their light. Speaking of light bulbs...

About a week ago now, with my light box heated exhaust air being blown into my main living area for supplemental house heating, I noticed a slight burning wire/electronics smell. Not good. My initial thought was that one of the two exhaust fans was giving up in a bad way. So I unplugged them and as they slowed, I could see tiny puffs of smoke being pulled from one of the IceCap double-end caps of the VHO systems. I immediately unplugged one of the two ballasts with a 50/50 chance this one was feeding this issue. Turns out, it was the other ballast. :( Go figure. So, seeing there's still smoke, I quickly reached for the other ballast's plug but just before my hand reached it, I hear a loud pop that surely couldn't be equated with anything good. After unplugging the second ballast and calming my heart down, I could see the end cap had gone up in flames in a big way and there was now a huge stench of electrical burn. Here's a shot of the resulting melt-down with the fried unit on the left and a replacement for reference on the right...

848_end-cap.jpg


It wasn't the wiring but rather the internal copper band that appears to have caused the issue. Perhaps corrosion played a part but I'm not sure of this. When I looked to purchase a replacement, I found that these are no longer available. The single units are but just not the doubles. Luckily, a local fellow reefer had some to sell and all is well again. In addition, I can say that the all aluminum light box makes me feel better about a situation where I wouldn't have been present of possible future issues... knock on aluminum. ;) Oh... did I mention this took out one of the ballasts? :( Yep, I had to quickly purchase a new ballast and this one will be headed back to IceCap to see if it's worth saving or not. Notice anything awry here? ;) ...

849_burnt-ballast.jpg








No? Take a closer look. ;)…

850_burnt-ballast2.jpg


So that's basically it and again, I'll get a new full tank shot up as soon as possible.

Joseph.
 
Last edited:
Good save. I'm glad you were there when it happened.

Are you going to fabricate your own acrylic endcaps? :lol:
 
Back
Top