250 watt SE MH lamps compared

[JB NY]

Could be. I have no way of testing this. If you have access to a better means of testing go for it.

 

[RustySnail]

Joe-

I dont have a better means/equipment; I'm only pointing out a possible flaw in the measurements based on my experience with electronic sensors. There might be a way to compare the intensity/spectrum with the sensor response chart and come up with a corrected PAR; but it would take some serious spreadsheet work.

If you have or know of any tabulated data on the lighting spectrum/intensity I could try making the corrections. I can't remember if it was in this thread or another that I saw some Excel plots of the various MH lamps.

 

[RustySnail]

OK... Talked to Sanjay via e-mail; he stated that the PPFD measuremtent is calculated by the spectroradiometer. Since this device measures actual intensity across all wavelengths it would be the best way to determine "PAR" for the different lamps. You stated that your PAR values agree with his (just different by a scale factor); which restores my confidence in the results.

Nice work on this subject Joe (and Sanjay) :thumbsup:

 

[NOLACLS]

I am by no means an expert at all, but I would think they are doing it right. Being that the xm15k has lower par than the xm20k would negate you theory wouldn't it? Glad Sanjay also cleared it up!

 

[RustySnail]

Being that the xm15k has lower par than the xm20k would negate you theory wouldn't it? Glad Sanjay also cleared it up!

Not necessarily; some of the (whiter) lamps have more violet than blue (shorter wavelength than blue) and then more spikes in the green/yellow to balance. The reason for my asking about the correctness of the PAR measurements is because the sensor Joe is using reports less blue than is actually produced by the lamp. This could lead to a measurement error if comparing different color lamps; but apparently it does not (which is great!).

If you look at the spectral plots you will see that the blue lamps have an intense spike at 425-450nm and then lower intensity throughout the rest of the spectrum; while the 10K's have a broader range that is of medium intensity. The sum total of light radiating from the 10K's is obviously higher than from the blue lamps; the spectral plots add quite a bit to understanding why PAR values differ so much.

 

[NOLACLS]

Shows you what I know. I was thinking the 15 is whiter looking so it would have more of the yellow/green spectrum....20 having more "dim" look would mean more blue and since the meter doesn't read blue as true as it is that would make the 20 have less par than the 15 going by what you said. that was my original thinking anyway....not any more

Love this place....wealth of info

 

[frank2926]

New bulb

New bulb

Hey Joe!
Thanks for all your hard work and info.
Any word on the new Coralvue Reeflux 10k bulb?

 

[Radicaljbr]

I am switching to Mh in the next week and have been doing some searching and have even tried reading this split thread (Had to stop after page 49).

I am looking to see if the XM10 will work fine off the PRO Standard? Your tests look good. Don't think I like the yellow in the Iwasaki. Is there a better alternative to what I have picked out? In your opinion.

I know it is all personal taste.

Thanks

 

[Radicaljbr]

Sorry Joe, one last question.

Are you still using the XM10 and the Icecap ballast? Still doing fine with it?

thanks

 

[gavinfp]

try aquaconnects

If keeping acros with color was as simple as par values and kelvin ratings, you guys would not be complaining so much about what species to get. The fact of the matter is that not all acros will do well under the same light. And as far as trying to determine what bulb has the highest par so that you can go out and spend lots of money on acros will not help either. Many acros that do well under 6500K - 10K halides are shallow water species such as formosa, pulchra, robusta, samoensis, humilis, gemifera etc. The problem however, is that even these shallow water species can be collected at much greater depths and will color shift under too much intensity. A good example is the deep water wild acros from Jakarta or bali (efflorescens, solitaryensis, granulosa, loripes etc...) do extremely well with low levels of light from 175 watt 20K XM, AB, at 24 inches total distance from lamp to coral. The divers in these areas use scuba gear to collect at 60-150 foot depth. Our divers in Fiji collect these same species with mask and snorkel at 20-40 foot depth. Clearly there will be a difference in how these acros respond to levels of intensity from various halides. In my opinion, we spend way too much time focusing on lighting while ignoring food or feeding habits and mineral deficiencies. I would recommend only appying natural mineral supplements such as Fiji Gold calcium, Fiji Gold mud, combisan, etc... You will have much better success keeping acros with color if you do this with good 15K-20K halides and if you feed the acros at night with the Fiji mud or other food source that is smaller than 100 microns. (zooplankton, oyster eggs etc...)
There is much much more to do but this is all I have time to write down so far.
I hope some of this info is helpful.
Gavin

 

[NYPD Frogman]

with all that has been said I just set up a pair of XM 250's 15K on
my 180 using hellolights ARO ballasts.
they were very blue when they first fired up, been running now about 60 hours.
look much bluer than a ushio 10 k I have on my 65

did I make the right choice for a tank that will have a mix of SPS, LPS?

 

[glipper69]

Frank,

There is nothing wrong with yor choice, though you may have very slow growth due to the low par on the 15k's in my experience anything below about 280par from JBNY's charts is too low and will result in limited growth. htough you should still get nice color.

My choice is the aquaconnects though very expensive they are worth it in the long run. If money is an issue the Hamilton 14k's are a nice substitute.

GL
Frank

 

[reptoreef]

... or the Phoenix 14k's.

 

[maxxII]

I've seen a phoenix 14k in person and was really surprised at the coloration, nice crisp blue-white. The PAR/PPFD was minimally different between the phoenix and the AC14k's according to Sanjay's site....http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/ (on an Icecap ballast). And comparing two things not entirely the same (different sensors et al) the PAR from the AB13k's I'm using is only moderately higher than the AC14k's on an Icecap ballast according to JBNY...422 AB13k's vs 406 for the AC14k's) might consider the phoenix bulbs since they are cheaper when its time to change...

Nick

 

[causeofhim]

Any PAR tests on the Hamilton 20K?

 

[hmpit_ags2006]

Any pics of the XM 15k?

-G

 

[lscaquarium]

anything on the Coralvue 250w 14K's?

thanks,
Chris

 

[SaltwaterDaddy]

Does anyone have any opinion on the Outer Orbit (made by Current)?

Here is a brief description:
Current 72" Outer Orbit (3) 150 watt HQI DE metal halide lighting fixture. (4) 96 watt dual actinic power compact lamps and (8) Moon White Lunar Lights. 834 total watts. Microprocessor based driving system - 15% more output Stainless suspension system and docking mounts included Independent 6 ft. power cords allow independent control of the Dual Actinics, PowerPaq HQI Metal Halides and Moon White Lunar Lights.

Thanks

 

[twkenny]

I know there a re a lot of "what shoud I get" type questions here...so I'm going to add another one!!!!
First I would like to thank everyone for their hard work and time.
3 250 watt electronic ballasts, 2 BlueWave and 1 Coralvue. I have XM20kk's that are way too blue for my tastes, and Coralvue 10kk's that are kinda yellow. I'd prefer not to run actinics, but I have 2 x 160 installed now.
I suppose I'm looking for a 14kk bulb???? I was considering Hamiltons. Has anyone had experience with the "Plus Line" or Plus" brand seen on eBay that go for about $33?
TIA.

 

[Emster]

I have a Hamilton hood with 2 250 watt SE 10k lamps and their electronic ballasts. Anyone know which electronic ballasts i have? Who makes them for Hamilton? Thanks for any help.