280G+ Starphire In-Wall Build by ReefArtist

Thanks everyone for the encouragement- this can be very overwhelming at times.

I'll have time to show everyone a nice photo of the Infinity tank and where I'm going to place it next week. I'll have some questions for everyone about the best plumbing (Stand alone or plumb it into my main tank).

My question today is - For the top of the stand I'm using 3/4" plywood and to screw it down I'm using 2" primeguard screws. I put them 10 inches apart do you think that is adequate?
 
The only situation in which I would not plumb the Infinity tank to the main tank is if I were to use it as a quarantine tank, something I doubt I would contemplate due to its size and dimensions. If you think about plumbing it to the main tank, start that planning now, imo. Given its size, I would think that you would enjoy the added stability joining it to the "main" tank would offer, in addition to limiting your maintenance to only one system.

10" on center is fine. Some will go farther apart, up to 12", and others would go to 8". On horizontal surfaces, I prefer the closer spread and on vertical I cheat and go a bit farther apart.

ps... I would not change what I have done; that is going to leave holes which are worse.
 
ditto on the screws..

I know what you mean about overwhelming. I started framing my tank room and had to leave town for a month. Gives me plenty of time to think about how much work I have left( AC, humidity, drywall, electrical, waterchage station, and on and on)..Just think how incredible both of your systems will be...

IMO I think it really deals with what you want to do with the tank. The extra volume always is a plus, so you could use the same sump if it is a frag tank. I think the tank is too sweet to have egg crate for frags. Maybe you can do something nice.

You can use it for predator fish ( Lion Fish and Angels). Or you can have a sweet seahorse and pipe fish tank. I keep my predator water seperate from my reef tank system. If i ever get ick or something it will only affect the system it is in and not both. Just wanted to throw my 2 cents. Hope it give you something else to think about.
 
Hi Eric,
Oh it's very sweet and it's not going to be a frag tank with egg crates. I did think about moving my Seahorses to it but it's only 14" tall - about 1/2 what they require. What I saw at one of the LFS (Sea in the City) is a Zero Edge tank that just had small corals - no fish. It seems most fish jump that I like and I'm a little concerned about them flowing over. So, I thought it would be nice for a grow out tank. Like a frag tank but have rocks etc just like a normal tank.

Next week I'm going to be working on my plumbing layout. I have it written and designed but I've made some changes - need to revisit and see about this new tank.
 
It is going to be one of sweetest frag tanks for sure. I am drolling about that tank.

Can you post some pics on your seahorse tank? I have heard a few people putting a certain species in there reef tanks. How do you feel about that? Will they get stressed out and die?
 
I don't have the tank setup yet but I've done a lot of research prepping for the day. My understanding is that if you put them in with other more aggressive eaters they will not get enough. That's the main reason they normally are housed in a tank with very few others - or slower eaters. Also you have to protect them from stinging corals - they are not strong swimmers and kind of float around. So if you did put them in with others they would all have to be slow eaters (very slow - they mainly sit and wait for the food to come to them) and very low sting corals. I don't want to limit my selection that much so - separate tank. The height really matters because of their mating dance. I guess they need something like three times their length. Hope this helps.
 
Token - thanks for the information and I just left the screws at 10 inches apart - using 2inch length primeguard. With the tanks weight it's not going anywhere.

The stand is now ready for Saturdays load to be placed on it! This is going to be great - finally the tank is going to be placed on the stand!

Yesterday I got the 3/4 inch plywood cut and placed on the stand and the 3/4 Styrofoam. I left the Styrofoam oversized and will cut it down after the tank has been placed. I also cut the holes for the overflows - I just hope I located them in the right place :D.

I did a little research on the Styrofoam and it's really different from the white stuff you see everywhere. Styrofoam (Which is blue and is a trademark name) is extruded polystyrene insulation and is a closed cell foam that resists moisture. It was used by the military in WWII because of its buoyancy and "unsinkability" - maybe that's the reason they have us put it under our tanks! The white stuff you find at Home Depot is not Styrofoam (I could only find it at Lowes here in Pinellas). From my understanding the white foam does not provide the insulating value, compressive strength or moisture resistance properties of Styrofoam. For us of course when we use it under our tanks, the compressive strength and moisture resistance properties is what we are after. OK - I'm done with that little tidbit.

Tomorrow I hope to have pictures with the tank on the stand!
 
The tank is now on the STAND!!!!!!!!!!

Here are a few photos of the move:

132223TheTeam.jpg

The move - getting it turned around and then to the stand - about 10 seconds!

132223Overthetop.jpg

Up and over was the hard part, but was done within seconds. Sliding her in place was all it took from there.

132223Perfect.jpg

We are talking perfectly level!

132223TankOnStand.jpg

This is when the tears started to flow! It looks pretty sitting there :D!

THANK YOU - Everyone that showed up to help with the move. We had at least 10 movers and 4 supervisors - it was GREAT!
 
A little update on how I added the board and foam. I used 3/4" plywood - sanded on one side. I added 4 coats of sealer (waited two hours between coats). After the last coat I put the 3/4 inch Styrofoam on and let the paint hold it in place - which it did a fabulous job. The tank did slide on the Styrofoam, so after everyone got it on the edge it just slide in place.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10386080#post10386080 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefArtist
Thanks Token - what a load off my mind! Now I can start looking at the changes in the plumbing that's going to occur.
Post a diagram and I am sure the brilliant minds (and I mean that with sincerity and admiration) here can give it a good look. IMO, the more eyes that see it, and comment, the better the end result will be.

Now, with that said, the cutting and gluing is still yours to manage (with help I hope...)! :rolleyes:
 
Oh yeah - we always have fun at my house. Just getting everyone here at one time for twenty minutes was the tough part. Lots of gluing will be going on and of course their's the walls to be added - OK - lots to do!
 
I have my plumbing changes added and my document updated. This is the top level so none of the ball valves, check valves etc are included. First I just wanted to make sure my basic design looks good, make any change now and then add all the connectors that will be required. please let me know what you think - and thank you!

132223280gPlumbing_ALL2.jpg


I also have this file on my web site - the best as clarity is the PDF:
http://www.reefdiversity.com/images/280Plumbing/ - just select the file format you can best read.

Thank you!
 
Very nice diagram!

My first question, after a quick glance, is: Are you running the volume of all your tanks through the sump with no additional flow for each individual tank? I do see that you are "t"-ing off to the 'fuge and grass/fuge tank prior to returning that volume to the displays via the sump.

My second question is: What skimmer are you using?

My third and last, for the moment, question is: What is the projected total system volume?
 
All tanks will have additions flow - the main tank (280) will have Two Tunze Stream 6101 + 7095 MultiController and I'm looking at the Tunze Wavebox 6212. The wavebox is still a question as I don't want water on the floor. If needed I can also add a couple of Tunze 6025's. The other tanks will have either Tunze 6025's or 6045. I think that was your question.

The skimmer will be the new Sequence Skimmer, it's rated for 600+ but holds it's own against the RC500 and the RC1000. The one good thing is that it uses one pump and not three and the price is much better than the ER skimmers.

The projected total volume is around 550G.

Hope this answered a few of your questions.
 
The only items that appear anomalous to me are the Media Reactors. It appears that they receive their water prior to Skimmer treatment and return it after skimmer treatment. I wonder if they might not better somewhere else in the loop. I am just not sure and await a more informed response from another.

At 550g total, one has either a lot of plumbing or a missing component. I don't see anything glaringly absent from the diagram. Since this is a one-story install, I can't foresee that much plumbing. My numbers point to a system volume of roughly 465g. 280g (Main) + 80g (add'l three displays) + 52g (two 'fuges) + 7g (skimmer) + 45g (sump) = 465g. Where I am going with this is that this could be tweaked a bit in terms of pumps and redundancy? A larger system pump might allow you to tweak flow out of the sump to the four displays via a manifold. This would seem more efficient in terms of both maintenance and electrical consumption.

I wonder, too, if a way might be found to feed the Ca Reactor without that additional pump.

Just my thoughts, and I await more accomplished system designers to chime in...

It looks great, if my comments don't indicate that. :thumbsup:
 
btw, thank you for the answers; I was concerned about flow in the main display but the Tunze address that concern. Did you consider a Closed Loop for main circulation?

I am always curious about the reasons different people decide on different circulation methods.
 
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