300G Octagon Tank

[Coolibabes]

Hi all

It has been over 6 years since I last shut down my 10 footer. Its been hell suffering the withdrawal symptoms, but I am finally back. I purchased a second hand ex display fully equipped Octagon tank from an LFS.

System Objectives: A beautiful, FOWLR or healthy reef system. (Not sure yet)

Strike up Date: TBC

Display Tank: 1100 x 1100 x 900 15mm glass Weir situated in middle of the tank with 3 x 25mm, 2 x 32mm holes

Display Lighting: (Work in Progress)

Stand: Came with tank but will be replaced

Hood: Came with tank but will be replaced

Support systems:

System Water: Natural salt water

Display Water circulation: Flow of the return pumps

Return Pump: Aquamedic 6500 Ocean Runner x 2

Skimmer: Aqua Medic Turbofloater Multi SL 1000

Heaters: 3 x 300w Jager

Evaporation Top Up: DIY auto topup

RO filtration: 4 stage reverse osmosis wall mount unit with an De-ionization post filter

Live Rock: TBC

TANK


WEIR
As mentioned above, the tank has a central weir with 3 x 25mm holes and 2 32mm holes (see pics below)



At the LFS, 2 of the 25mm holes (end ones) were used for gravity feeding the sump and one in the middle was used to run an electrical wire from the roof to supply electricity to the equipment in the sump. I will most probably use the middle one for the electrical wire, but was considering installing a Herbie system with the other two holes (Thoughts?)

The LFS ran 2 x 6500 Aquamedic Ocean runners and each was allocated to a 32mm hole for the return. That must of been some serious flow in the tank via the 4 x 20mm outlet at the top of the weir (see pic below) I will most probably continue with this return system. The return connections have a ball valve connected to control the flow

RETURN CONNECTIONS


SUMP
The sump provided was more geared for housing all the equipment with bioballs (see pic below) so I am in the process of redesigning the sump to incorporate a refugium on one side, sump on the other and the return pump in the middle. All three compartment will be separated by baffles to trap any bubbles.


My 10 footer I had previously was a great success mainly due to the invaluable feedback/advise received from you guys on Reef Central, so please any feedback/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Coolibabes]

I was busy cleaning the tank on the inside when I saw that the glass tubing placed in the joins were damaged (See 2nd pic above). As you can see (sorry for the mess in the background) that the bottom part of the glass tubing is broken and there are pretty sharp edges protruding. The one in the pic is one of the worst ones, there are another two tubes that has been slightly damaged but the rest appear in tact. I guess it comes with the territory when buying a secondhand tank.

The issue I have is that this could potentially hurt my livestock in the tank or worst still could affect the integrity of the water tight seal between the two pieces of glass.

I mentioned this to the LFS and he confirmed the tubing is just there for aesthetic purposes and all I have to do is cover it with some silicone to cover up the sharp edges.

I realise that you guys are not tank builders but any feedback would be appreciated. Is it correct that the glass tubing placed between the joins of the octagon tank is just for aesthetics and a simple bead of silicone would fix it?

 

[Coolibabes]

Anyone have any suggestions/ideas on how to aquascape this tank? I have read through a few journals but there are none that considers a central (middle) weir.

 

[Rakie]

Full 360* scape. Split it into 4 sections, make each section different in terms of scape and livestock.

Side 1 (Primary Side): Caves -- As many caves as you can possibly make. Don't be afraid to use the width between the glass and the weir either.

Side 2: Vertical Walls -- Build high and keep it tight to the weir. Make the tallest parts be thinner than the mid parts, mid parts thinner than the bottom, and bottom Widest (Front to back width) it will look like a vertical drop off into deep water. This side would look really cool with subdued light, and gorgonians.

Side 3: Acro/SPS -- Shallow reefs: This you just want to emphasize the coral, so a bunch of branch work is nice and easy, it also allows you to place a colony on each individual branch tip/end. Additionally, it doesn't impede flow.

Side 3: LPS deep reef (If you don't want SPS) -- Probably look pretty similar to an SPS build, the difference being you want huge sweeping corals here (that don't grow invasively) like giant hammer colonies, torch colonies, etc etc.

Side 4: Macro / Lagoon -- Gorgonians and seagrasses / Macro algae. This could be really cool if implemented correctly, although it's usually best suited to tanks that aren't so tall.

 

[Coolibabes]

Full 360* scape. Split it into 4 sections, make each section different in terms of scape and livestock.

Side 1 (Primary Side): Caves -- As many caves as you can possibly make. Don't be afraid to use the width between the glass and the weir either.

Side 2: Vertical Walls -- Build high and keep it tight to the weir. Make the tallest parts be thinner than the mid parts, mid parts thinner than the bottom, and bottom Widest (Front to back width) it will look like a vertical drop off into deep water. This side would look really cool with subdued light, and gorgonians.

Side 3: Acro/SPS -- Shallow reefs: This you just want to emphasize the coral, so a bunch of branch work is nice and easy, it also allows you to place a colony on each individual branch tip/end. Additionally, it doesn't impede flow.

Side 3: LPS deep reef (If you don't want SPS) -- Probably look pretty similar to an SPS build, the difference being you want huge sweeping corals here (that don't grow invasively) like giant hammer colonies, torch colonies, etc etc.

Side 4: Macro / Lagoon -- Gorgonians and seagrasses / Macro algae. This could be really cool if implemented correctly, although it's usually best suited to tanks that aren't so tall.

Thank you Rakie

So...to build the caves and vertical walls, would it be best to use some pvc piping and acrylic rods. Similar to the pic below?

 

[Rakie]

yeah that would work fine! if you can also find the right sized rocks, pillars could also look great.

 

[dmarkham]

Very cool tank shape.

 

[Coolibabes]

Need some advise on the overflow:

I am contemplating going with the Bean Animal or Herbie overflow!

As the pic above, I have 3 X 25mm holes & 2 x 32mm holes. The middle 25mm hole will be used to run an electrical wire from the roof to supply electricity to the equipment in the sump. My understanding is that the Herbie only requires 2 holes and with the two 25mm holes left I can go with the Herbie overflow.

If I however want to go with the Bean Animal (which requires 3 holes right?), I will have to use the middle hole for the Bean Animal and find another way to get electricity to the sump.

The 2 x 32mm holes will be for the return where I am still deciding if I should hook up 2 independent 6500 Aqua medic pumps or just feed both holes with 1 x Laguna Maxflo 9000 for the return.

Any advise/feedback would be greatly appreciated!