380 Starfire SPS in a closet

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/58279226@N00/1342108705/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1207/1342108705_546a427281_o.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="w dan lic fin" /></a>

Maybe late next week this picture will be taken in my living room :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10713724#post10713724 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
If one extreme or another (hot/cold) is hit, then the ACIII will simply cut the return pump until the 200 gallons outside has a chance to catch up. There will be more than enough flow intank so even if it is 30 minutes of every hour during the most extreme few temp days we have around here I think it will be fine. Only one way to find out.....

Living in southern PA, here, and have been considering doing the same thing, putting a chiller outside. If you cut the return pump on a 10 degree day in January, aren't you concerned that the pipes to and from the outside unit will freeze? Or even if the power goes out for a few hours. That's my biggest concern.
 
Im in Staten Island I have my chiller outside. Its on a Medusa controller. The return pump runs through it so that theres water running through it at all times. I also have a back up pump on hand JIC the return dies for some reason it can be swapped out. The heat this summer did nothing to the water and last winter the cold made no diffrence. My chiller I built a room around it. The room is just a lil bigger then the chiller. Instead of plywood my husband used concrete boards. Then he used styrofoam on the outside of it. He also has a grate on one side for heat to leave it.
 
Good point 20 20. What I am looking to do, is use a actuated valve to shut off flow on the outlet of the pump right after the chiller tee. Just between the chiller tee and the actuated valve I am going to run a 1/2" tee that will bypass the valve and return to the tank. This should let just enough flow through the system to keep the heating/chilling components working hard without to much cycling and prevent freeze up and not actually shut down the main pump. I figure if I tie this valve to my feed timer on my controller as well, it will be tested at least once a day.
 
Power outage, same command line with the valve should let the sump water reheat or cool. Long term, I have a gas generator that I can run to keep the tank going, short term power outages, the tank will be sustained by a vortech w/ battery backup.
 
Dan,

Do I understand your sump correctly.... It's composed of insulating foam with a fiberglass shell. Did you fabricate it yourself?
 
hey dan,
are you going to get brand new live stock or are you going to transfer alot of stuff over from your 54 and your other (75 i think it was?)
 
Yep, the livestock will all transfer with the exception of the soft corals and rock from the 75. I might add one or two new things as well ;)

I only plan to put about 250# of rock in the tank, I want it really open. 50# of that will come from my 54 so I need to pick up about 200# or so to cycle the tank with. I do have about 100# of rubble rock that I have collected over the last few months and that will be used to fill in any gaps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10687474#post10687474 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
OK, here is the deal with the light rack:

3ea luminarcs centered on 3' intervals flanked on both sides by VHO and T-5's running perpendicular to the face of the tank:


Dan,
Where did you get the light racks and connections for the lighting? Thanks for sharing the information!

Trevor
 
Trevor, the light racks are sliding door tracks. I got them from mcmaster.com I can look up the part# for you later.
 
So your going to be keeping the 75 and the 360? i woulda thought you would keep the 54 instead of the 75- that set up is just to nice!
 
Nice, that sump fits perfectly! Did you put it on top of an extra sheet of foam? You might consider dropping in two other sheets on the back and left, as well as a sheet for the top on cold winter nights.

To answer questions about the sump: I had it made by the fiberglass guy who built much of my aquaculture equipment in Florida. I like using fiberglass because it's very durable, lightweight, and fairly cheap. The foam core is R-13, so it should help quite a bit in the winter. A few extra layers might bump that up to R20 or 30.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10717320#post10717320 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tanya72806
Im in Staten Island I have my chiller outside. Its on a Medusa controller. The return pump runs through it so that theres water running through it at all times. I also have a back up pump on hand JIC the return dies for some reason it can be swapped out. The heat this summer did nothing to the water and last winter the cold made no diffrence. My chiller I built a room around it. The room is just a lil bigger then the chiller. Instead of plywood my husband used concrete boards. Then he used styrofoam on the outside of it. He also has a grate on one side for heat to leave it.

I missed this one, sorry. That is positive to hear, your enclosure sounds neat! Do you by chance have a picture of that you could post for me?
 
mfaustria, me too!

Akbuuur, no the 75 will be gone. The 54 will be my new refugium for this setup. That or an anemone tank, either way it will be plumbed into this new system.

Justin, like a glove! I was planning on lining the walls with foam board after I get the plumbing roughed in, it never occurred to me to put a few layers under the sump but, that is an obvious heat saving solution, thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10694723#post10694723 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dandy7200
Face for power center is complete:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/58279226@N00/1316455248/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1281/1316455248_d0d760a922.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN0467" /></a>

I love your creativity and well thought planning! Very impressive dandy7200!
 
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