4 tank, vertical build

Crawdads57

In Memoriam
Attached is my rough draft layout for a new build. I did this in excel to start, I'm attaching a jpeg screenshot and I'll follow up with a post containing the excel file (don't know if that will work).

Overview: I have all of these tanks except one already, but they are not configured like this. My idea is to have a display refugium at the top which flows into a succession of 2 more display tanks and then a sump / refugium. It will be a total of 66.7 tank volume, with an actual water volume of roughly 40-45 gallons. This is explained below.

Each display will have an overflow draining to the next display, and an emergency drain that goes directly to the sump. All are to be fed by one return pump, which only pumps into the top display (the display refugium).

I plan to install black acrylic "walls" on each end of each display, one where the input spills over, and one which acts as an overflow box. This will control my water level in each tank. I want to do this to give me the cleanest lines possible. I want to take great care to place powerheads behind rock work so that no equipment is visible from the front view.

None of these things are labeled, but I'm sure you will be able to see what I'm talking about. I'll start with the cabinet and then go down each of the tanks starting with from the top. Any advice / suggestions, either about livestock or equipment are much appreciated.

Cabinet: I'm going to build this myself. The front will be one large door that can be opened, well, just like a door ;) but that also has "windows" cut out to show the display tanks, with a "cover" or "lid" (what is the word?) allowing me access to each tank. Those are the orange things on the right. There will be no top, but the whole things is 84" tall, so I'll use a step stool to get into the top display refugium tank.

Refugium display: this is a 12 gallon long that I already own. 35.5 X 8.25 X 9.5 - the purpose is obviously pods and macro algae. I have some macros picked out, none of which are caluerpa. I also want to put feather dusters and snails (maybe hermits) up here. No fish or anything else that eats a lot of pods. Any live stock advice here? Light will be a current satellite planted tank light that I already own. I think it will grow the hell out of some macros.

Center display: this is a 12.7 gallon high that I do not have yet. It measures roughly 24 X 8 X 16. I want some height in this area while preserving my low water volume (more on that later) and its the same size front to back as the other displays. This tank will contain all my corals, some of which are already on the rock to the right. The darker brown rocks are live rock I already have. The lighter brown will be structures I plan to make out of prepared oyster shells. I asked about that in this post: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2589080&highlight=oyster+shell the purpose being to give me the ability to continue the structure up through all 3 display tanks.

I also want to have a small number of schooling fish in this tank. I am going to plan on a gamble here and go for a certain species of rainbow fish "blue back blue eyes" (P. cyanodorsalis). My original post about that is here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2587625&highlight=small+fish+for+small+tank and a discussion I had with some rainbow fish pros can be found here: http://www.rainbow-fish.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3122 I also want to keep some blennies or small gobies in this tank. Other suggestions welcome, but I want the majority of the pods to be available to the rainbows. Beyond that I want to keep gorgonians, softies, LPS (mainly acans) maybe some birdsnest, a lot of palys and zoas. CUC, etc.
I plan to buy an AI Prime HD LED, but other suggestions in the $200-250 price range would be welcome.

Bottom display: Another 12G long which I already own. Lots of live sand, some rock I already have and the base structures for my "oyster towers". The area on the left will be a deeper sand bed for some tube anemones and I also want get a, you guessed it, mantis shrimp. I wonder if some of the smaller ones could be kept together? This is a whole other conversation, but I see Pseudosquilla ciliata are the spear type and stay small. I think I could get away with some trochus snails maybe - what else to help keep it clean? I plan to get a current orbit 24-36" model. I have the 18-24" model on my 15 gallon cube, It gets the job done and I want this area to be mainly actinic anyways, with lots of shadows.

I'm not dead-set on the mantis, but I am set on the tube anemones. Any other livestock for this "semi-benthic" area, just let me know your thoughts.

Lastly, the sump: This is a good ol' 30 gallon that I already own and that is not fit to be a display tank. From left to right: overflows, sock, purigen, Tunze 9004, chaeto, carbon, heater, return. Pretty straightforward. Need a refugium light down here, but I'll find a good one for that chaeto.

What else, what else? Well, just tell me your thoughts.
 

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Sounds like you have things well thought out.
I too made some of my rocks in my tank out of oyster shell cement and sand. It has been working well and seems to have plenty of pours for bacteria. Is there any particular reason you are having 2 refugiums? I really like over the tank fuge for helping with pods and I guess the one in the sump would help some with nutrient export.
I also like the idea of the mantis shrimp! I always wanted a Odontodactylus scyllarus (Peacock Mantis) but the get to about 7 inches and I would have to have a tank just for it and also have to worry about it breaking the glass from what I have read.
 
About the oyster shell: I see a lot of info out there about incorporating oyster shell in to hand made rock, but I was planning on just using the oyster shells (whole halves) to build the structures. This should make them somewhat modular, even though I would be using about 10 tubes of superglue to get this done. I plan to cure these shells over an extended period - but if anyone seeing this knows that this is a bad idea for some reason I am not seeing - please stop me ;)

2 refugiums: well, I do want a display refugium, and I am in the habit of using a foam filter on my return pumps, so I think this stops 99.9% of pods from getting back to my displays with a fuge below. Other reasons for the chaeto down below: I need a light down there anyways, just for maintenance, so I might as well grow some chaeto. Plus I have the room, plus if my display macros go all to hell I have a back up at least. Plus I just like the looks of a nice spinning ball of chaeto!

Mantis: I like the peacocks too, but this spearing species (Pseudosquilla ciliata) might be easier to keep with some additional livestock, I dunno, seems like a spearing type might spare more snails than the hammer types. And I don;t think I have to worry about them breaking the glass (though I don't know how much of a concern that would be with a hammer type of the same small size). They're small - maybe in this elongated tank I can get away with two - three??? I plan to look into this more, because I have no idea. Also I can get them from KP Aquatics, who I've bought from before and who I like and trust.

I never followed up my own comment about the small volume of this tank. Some might say its a lot of work for 45 gallons of water, but I prefer to do more frequent water changes and this makes that (not to mention the equipment) much more affordable. Plus with all these tanks on one system I get to have a lot more latitude in the way of livestock "zoning" while keeping it at an overall lower cost. especially since I already have a lot of the equipment and even livestock.
 
The oyster shell structure glued together sounds cool and should be interesting. Can't wait to see the outcome with that. As far as the mantis shrimp spearing species, they are really cool too. Not sure how territorial they are so not sure how many you can keep in one tank. But would definitely be fun to watch and feed.
I also like your concept on having less water volume for affordability. I have a 40gB with a 20g sump that I am using as a frag tank ATM and a 180g with a 40gB sump. I will have to say that the 180 would be a nightmare to by equipment for if I was to buy it manufactured, but luckily I was able to DIY almost everything. I was considering making my 40gB a SPS tank since the small sizes makes it easier to buy equipment for.

Can't wait to see some pictures and see what else you decide on
 
Thanks - I'm going to take it slow on this one, I want to make sure I have everything planned out before I start buying the components I don't have yet.

I'm not sure what kind of turnover I need on this thing. My gut is 200-250 gph, but after 80" of head loss I'm not sure how accurate the published specs are for some of these pumps.
 
I think that turn over is more of a personal preference. I have heard about every single rate you can think of. I personal went with a slower turn over rate for my system in hopes it would give my macro algae and other filtration more time to take out nutrients. I know that its recommend to have a higher turn over for SPS than LPS and softies. Just find a pump that will give you the flow rate you want after 6 feet of head loss. So something like a 650-750gph pump would give you about 200 or 250 after head loss
 
You're right I think. A guy just has to just set it up, start slow, not go crazy on buying the inhabitants for the system, and see what works and what doesn't. Slowly.

I see a bunch of pumps in my price range at that spec (~700gph straight). And I see what you mean about the dwell time on the macros. I can see that being a good thing for a small protein skimmer also.

And maybe that's what I need to keep from getting over-plumbed also. On my 15 gallon I'm running a return of somewhere between 150 and 180 gph and I would say that's enough, but its all softies and lightly stocked. It's worked out fine, very little diatoms on the glass that my CUC doesn't take care of. No other algae, and the coralline is decent.

So in order to recreate that I'm not sure if I need to go for the 10X-15X range per tank (120-180gph) or per overall volume (~400+ gph or whatever), so I'm just trying to settle in between - lol. But I don't know how to plumb drains per volume. There's gotta be a formula to get me started, but I see every damn thing under the sun out there. I know I can't run 400gph through a sequence of 3, 12 gallon tanks! but what's the magic number - lol!

My biggest question right now is on the downflow mechanics. I use gate valves on my current setups, but I still get a gurgle and bubbles on those. I think my drains are just too big. Or maybe I just don't know how to properly tweek a gate valve (I bought the cheaper ones at BRS).

Is there a formula (or post) for gravity vs. input vs. diameter of drain inlet?

Also, any opinions on stocking this thing? I'm all ears. :deadhorse:
 
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