450 Gallon Reef

Similar to your ends, where the cross-piece has a 2x4 underneith supporting it, ie the load is on a vertical member. I hope that explains it, I haven't figured out the pictures yet.
 
Ahh, yes I see what your saying, I could kick myself for not seeing it myself.

Thanks, as I said, all input is appreciated =)
 
is your tank going to be made from glass or acrylic? if its going to be acrylic you may want to add in some cross bracing to the stand to support the center of the tank. if its glass than it will be fine. acrylic tanks need to be fully supported across the entire botton of the tank. the plywood is not neough to support the weight of the water in the tank.
are you planning on changing the intake fittings on the dart pumps? those look like 2" to 1" reducer bushings. those may restrict you flow too much and become a problem down the road. i would increase them to a 1.5" fitting.
 
acrylic spazz.

BTW it was nice speaking to you on the phone, when I get closer to the time I will contact you again, I think you gave me ALOT of information I did not have previously.

Yeah, the supports need to be reinforced on the cross bracing I have curently and the darts were pre-owned and have reducers on them I will be removing before install.


Now if I could just figure out how to put the two OM 4ways plumbed in on each side so I have the back and forth motion. I have a good idea of how I want to make that happen and reaslize the 2 OM 4ways won't be in sync but having two outlets on each end from both OMs .. I am thinking two on each back and two coming up from the bottom should give me a wave type effect?

Then I can have the return from the sump coming off the back in the middle I would guess, this should give me a good back and forth I would hope.

Thoughts?
 
it wont be hard at all to get them to run in syin with each other. those motors are a a very good motor. both motors will run the exact RPM all the time. so if you unplug one of them until you have the other one on the right prot then plug in the other one the will run the same rotation all the time. unless one of them gets unplugged. there clock motors basicly. there just alot higher tourque than a standard clock motor is. there 1 rpm exactly. no sweat guy. looks like its going to be one awesome tank set up. ilike the attention to detail so far. your not skimping on equiptment. that is where some guys end up going astray. cut a little here skimp a little there and there system always has problems there trying to fix. so there is no stability to the system and the corals suffer in the end.

keep up the posting. look forward to seeing this one in person some day. i have to get down there and anoy superman over at the T REX. ha ha ha ha
 
Well I am getting closer to getting my tank in, we are fine tuning the design.

Aquarium1design.jpg


This is my layout:

I have 2-CL running on two 4 ways = 8 returns from the darts to the OM 4ways. I will have two on the bottom and two on the top split between the two 4 ways to have a back and forth motion throughout the tank.

I am hoping that the Darts will push enough water and I think they will. With minimul head loss with a CL system, I figure about 6,000 gallons per hours traveling from one side to the other. Does this sound right? Also, I haven't had a tank this big and was also wondering if it would make a wave (if the timing of the four ways were identicle) having two darts pushing each way every 60 seconds or if it would be a calm transition.

Also, I will have a shallow overflow on the back that runs the length of the tank for best skimming results and super low noise ( no niagra falls) it will be up high and inside and be black so I think it will be almost invisable.

Thoughts and suggestions thus far? Or questions :)
 
Tank.jpg


Ok, here is the final drawing. Guess this is more of my personal log or diary than something people would give input on.

:rolleyes:
 
Do you have holes cut into the back of the overflow? And, since you have the room, would you be opposed to having the same overflow, but have it on the outside instead? That way, you would just have teeth in the back glass.
-Chuck
 
The overflow is only about 4" tall or so and the tank is acrylic. With the size of the tank, the builer said it would be best if I had the overflow inside vs. outside. The overflow will be black and almost invisible even inside as it wouldn't be very deep so I didn't think this would hinder look or aquascaping, especially since it runs the length of the tank.

There will be holes on the outside of the tank for the overflows that will be durso style.
 
I am not sure with 3/4" think acrylic on a 30" tall tank that eurobracing would be the safest bet. I would most certainly want to make sure it dosen't bow over the long haul and with it also being 8 foot long. . well, I would want to make sure it is done right.
 
on mine 1" all around,same on eurobrace only at the bottom 3/4" i rather be safe than sorry...96"L x 48"W x 30"H
 
ok, questions for you electrician type guys


I am running my electric now and wondered, if I have three 3.16 amp 400watt ballasts, a 660 icecap ballast, 3 -1.8 amp darts, and possibly a 1000 watt heater (as it would be aquacontrolled off the DC8) would I be able to run much more off that line? It is a 12g line and thinking 20 amp breaker?.

I am putting three can lights around my tank on the outside and possibly a computer desk near the tank and any odds and ends I might need like led moonlights, the aquacontroller and plug in towards the bottom of the tank on the outside for anything (vacuum, a lamp, etc..) and possibly an extra plug behind the tank incase I might want to add some tunze or other powerheads in the future.

Would I need to run another line for can lights, computer, and any other plug ins?

The skimmer and reactors, minus the C02 valve and heater(sump type stuff) would run off a seperate line in the garage.

Let me know if I didn't give enough information as I will keep an eye on this thread.
 
well it is pretty much simple, each 20amp circuit should be ran on 12/2 wires, so rule of thumb should be 133% over total amount..so if total for 3 ballast and computer comes up to 13amp or so, dedicated 20amp for just that, can get away with more but not recommeded. so anything that pull alot of amp, install seperate circuit toi be on safe side. hope this help you out
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

U
New build
Replies
3
Views
300
griss
griss
M
Iam about to build my forever tank. Any advice? I want to migrate my current two ranks
Replies
5
Views
241
Paul B
Paul B
M
How everything change and keeps changing
Replies
18
Views
368
Reefing102
Reefing102
W
Potential 65G
Replies
17
Views
384
griss
griss
adova
300g DIY Acrylic Tank Recommendations
Replies
5
Views
135
griss
griss
Back
Top