5 Gallon too small for QT?

5 Gallon too small for QT?

  • Keep (2) 5 gal. as is, it's not the problem, just keep trying.

    Votes: 2 18.2%
  • Add 10 gal. but keep the rear 5 gal. (no skimmer).

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Add 10 gal. but keep the rear 5 gal. (use skimmer).

    Votes: 2 18.2%
  • Add 10 gal. and remove both 5 gal., use hang on filter (no skimmer).

    Votes: 6 54.5%
  • Add 10 gal. and remove both 5 gal., use hang on filter (use skimmer).

    Votes: 1 9.1%

  • Total voters
    11

falconut

New member
I've been running a QT tank for a while now. All of my fish go through it for a month to make sure they're healthy and eatting properly.

I used to use a 10 gallon tank with an empty hang on the back filter filled with some LR rubble as the filtration.

A few months ago, I got rid of the tank. I had a 5 gal tank setup in it's place with only a SeaClone 100 for filtration. I added a small Lamarck Angel and the next day it had ich (or at least that's what it looked like). I added a scoop of SeaChem Metronidazole as directed on the bottle to the water. The next day all of the spots were gone. Unfortunely, the fish died 4 days later.

I decided to empty all of the water and added another 5 gallon tank. So, I now had (2) 5 gallon tanks, one behind the other. I put the internal portion of an overflow box in the display portion. I then stuck a 'U' tube between the 2. In the back tank, there was a piece of acrylic glued in the tank making a chamber, so if the level dropped in the rear tank the 'U' tube would stay primed. I then put an old Mag-7 in the back tank and it pumped into the front tank. I figured this should handle the flow duties. I filled the tanks with fresh water to test. After the tests (about 15 - 30 minutes) I started to add salt until it reached 1.023. I have about 3 - 4 small pieces of LR rubble and some sand on the bottom.

I added a Green Chromis and it refused to eat and hid whenever I came in the room and was dead in 3 days. It didn't look bad, just died (assumed from never eatting). So, I went and got a Yellow tail Blue Damsel the next day. He was eatting from day 1. He is still doing great. I checked the levels and Am. = 0.25, NO2 = 0 and NO3 = 10.

After a few weeks, I checked the levels and Am. = 0, NO2 = 0 and NO3 = 15.

Later that week I added a Yellowheaded Jawfish that the LFS had for over a week. It was in a tank with about 2" of sand and it made a cave under a rock. I stacked the rocks, so it could do the same. But it managed to jump out through the eggscrate and landed into the rear tank. I put it back in the front tank. I glued another eggcrate on top so the holes were smaller. It seamed so skittish and never ate. Again, about three days later it was dead. Didn't look bad just dead. Assumed it was just because it was so spastic and it wasn't eatting. I again checked the levels and they were Am. = 0, NO2 = 0 and NO3 = 15. I did a 2 gallon water change.

About a week and a half later I added a 3" Black & White Heniochus. It was eatting great at the LFS and looked prefect. All fins were clear, body was bright and colorful and it was very alert. The next day, the edges of it's fins looked hazy white. I checked the levels and they were Am. = 0, NO2 = 0 and NO3 = 10. So, I figured since it was eatting it would be fine. The next day, it was covered with tiny dust sized white dots. It was still eatting really good and not breathing hard. I decided to dose with Metronidazole as directed. That night it still looked the same. In the morning it was dead. The Yellow tail Blue Damsel is still looking great.

So, I'm beginning to believe that the 5 gallon tank is just too small and causing the fish to stress out and break out. And I won't be using the Metronidazole again, even though I had some good results in the past.

What's the concensus. I can get a 10 gallon to replace the front 5 gallon and keep using the rear 5 gallon as the equipment tank or just remove the rear 5 gallon and add the hang on filter with the rubble. Either would allow to reconnect the skimmer. I don't believe I would go with anything larger, I am limited with space. Plus, a 15 gallon isn't much bigger but costs 3 times the price of a 10 gallon.
 
I think the larger water column would be best, but scrap the rock and sand, as this gives the parasites a substrate to reproduce on and makes it easier for them to survive.

Don't QT more than one fish at a time, unless added at the same time. The damsel is likely carrying the parasite and transferring it to other fish that are more easily stress/susceptible. The only effective treatments for Ich are copper and hyposalinity, so use one of those, not whatever this other stuff is. I recommend Hypo, personally.

After you've completed treatment of each fish, drain the tank completely and allow it 24 hours to dry before refilling to quarantine a new fish. Keep multiple sponge filters in the sump of your 90 gal reef for use in QT, and follow similar procedure with the sponges. Keep them in the sump for several weeks to be seeded, use in treating fish, and either toss them or let them dry completely before putting them back into the sump for re-seeding.

To make the fish more comfortable, paint or cover the sides and back of the tank in a dark color, I use black, and provide them with a variety of PVC pipes and fittings to hide in. This will make for much easier cleanup.
 
I have 2 5g tanks and a 10g I use for QT. I just got done with 2 tangs (3.5in pbt and a 4.5 inch kole). during the tank transfer method they were in the 10g together, then each in their own 5g, then back again. I've used just the 5g for QT before with no issues.
 
I use a 5 gal for a QT tank, bare bottom, short piece of 2-1/2" PVC to hide in, and an Aquaclear 30 filter.

No problems with it at all, just do 1-2 small fish at a time and they are fine.
 
I have 2 5g tanks and a 10g I use for QT. I just got done with 2 tangs (3.5in pbt and a 4.5 inch kole). during the tank transfer method they were in the 10g together, then each in their own 5g, then back again. I've used just the 5g for QT before with no issues.

Yeah, two 5 gal tanks seem perfect for the TTM. Needs larger for an observation tank. Add a bacterial booster to keep the tank cycled, and make sure that ammonia is never an issue in the tank.
Daniel.:wildone:
 
I have had better success with larger QT tanks. First I use 20 long with just PVC, then after two weeks they go into a frag tank, then after two more into the display. Do what works for you.
 
I've been using a 55 gal. I put 5 tangs and a rabbitfish through at once. I wanted to be able to control their adjustment to each other in a controlled environment. They all school together and display very little aggression. Only the one yellow is a bit territorial. I think I'll put him in my soon-to-be frag tank.
Daniel.:wildone:
 
I know old post. But wondering who is still using the 5 gallon tanks. I have room for 2 of the 5.5 chepo tanks and nothing more. My fish room was a old bar so not a lot of space. Think I ha e 20”. Between back of tank and wall. It works for me just dont h ae large space for QT setup.
 
5g's is fine, just depends on the size of the fish. And have WC water on hand and ammonia detox when necessary. 5g's isn't optimal for fish, but for short QT periods they will get over it. At least you are QT'ing!
 
Thanks now looking at a cube style in 10 or 20. Also wonder if anyone has used a shallow frag tank for fish QT? With a net top of course.
 
I have 8 fish tanks in my house but all are occupued.. including my 20 long for my corals which im using as a fallow tank while i do hypo in my main tank.

I have a 5.5 gallon tsnk i had setup awhile ago and i used it like 4 times now as a hospital tank... it brough mt my 4 inch yellow tank back to life and eating.. actually saved him twice when i had a ammonia spike in my tank twice... so i put him in that 5g tank with 0 ammonia in 4 days he recovered and started eating again.. Saved my talbot damsel when he was torn up by other fish. And also saved my foxface fish from cupramine

So yea 5 gallons is enough...
 
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