500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !
- Thread starter Sanjay
- Start date
- Status
NorthernCF
Premium Member
Wow, that air bag was awsome.
and I'm sure you guys did not need that 
Sanjay
Premium Member
Well, I think I have changed my plans to use a rubbermaid tub as a sump, due to some space restrctions under the stand, and decieded to go with a custom sump. THe sump will be 48X30X18.
Here is what my current design looks like. The water will come into the box and one end, and leave via a serpentine flow though the lenght of the sump. This should give the water enough time to get the bubbles out.
The sump wall thickness is 3/8" and I was wondering how much more cross bracing I should add to prevent bowing of the sump.
Any other mods I should do to the sump ? I will have a hang on bracket to mount the probes, float valves, and any other devices.
sanjay.
Here is what my current design looks like. The water will come into the box and one end, and leave via a serpentine flow though the lenght of the sump. This should give the water enough time to get the bubbles out.
The sump wall thickness is 3/8" and I was wondering how much more cross bracing I should add to prevent bowing of the sump.
Any other mods I should do to the sump ? I will have a hang on bracket to mount the probes, float valves, and any other devices.
sanjay.
Travis
10 and over club
Sanjay, that looks like a nice sump design. I would go ahead and add some baffles in the raceways anyways. It couldn't hurt anything. One thing I did on my newest sump was have the overflow drain compartment completely enclosed to eliminate salt creep from all of the bubbles in that area. It really worked well. Here is a diagram I made for the builder:
<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page16/sump(draincompartmentwithoutlid).bmp>
and here is the drain compartment of the sump before I drilled the holes for the drains and the bulkheads:
<img src=http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/17792136_3618.JPG>
You can see in the picture, there is a removable lid that allows for access to the compartment for cleaning or changing plumbing. I also did what you are planning on doing where all of the water from the drain compartment is forced to go under a baffle before traveling to the rest of the sump. This helps keep most of the bubbles in the drain compartment where they will rise to the surface and pop in an enclosed area preventing salt creep problems.
One other thing I did that I would recommend is have your skimmer intake right where the water exits the drain compartment. This will help capture the rawest overflow water possible before the proteins have a chance to start rising to the surface again. Of course, this is a moot point if you are planning to gravity feed the skimmer. Sorry if you already mentioned that.
The last thing I would add to your sump design is probe holders and float switch holders if you plan to use them.
<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page16/sump(draincompartmentwithoutlid).bmp>
and here is the drain compartment of the sump before I drilled the holes for the drains and the bulkheads:
<img src=http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/17792136_3618.JPG>
You can see in the picture, there is a removable lid that allows for access to the compartment for cleaning or changing plumbing. I also did what you are planning on doing where all of the water from the drain compartment is forced to go under a baffle before traveling to the rest of the sump. This helps keep most of the bubbles in the drain compartment where they will rise to the surface and pop in an enclosed area preventing salt creep problems.
One other thing I did that I would recommend is have your skimmer intake right where the water exits the drain compartment. This will help capture the rawest overflow water possible before the proteins have a chance to start rising to the surface again. Of course, this is a moot point if you are planning to gravity feed the skimmer. Sorry if you already mentioned that.
The last thing I would add to your sump design is probe holders and float switch holders if you plan to use them.
jnarowe
New member
I built my 53"h x 14"w x 16"L skimmer out of 3/8" and have no bowing problems at all, but I did install square rod in all corners. Based on your dimensions I think it should be OK. As far as baffles go, I doubt many bubbles will make it past the first under baffle. This would be especially true if you use any filter socks at the entry point.
What are you going to put in the sump chambers?
What are you going to put in the sump chambers?
Sanjay,
Jeff H. here............With that design that you have pictured I would go with 1/2" and somewhere I would have some sort of cross bracing to prevent the long sides from bowing out. Do you already have someone building it?
If you really want to eliminate any cross bracing and build it exactly to what you have shown I would no doubt build it with 3/4" or even 1".
PM me with a contact number if you want to discuss it.
Jeff
Jeff H. here............With that design that you have pictured I would go with 1/2" and somewhere I would have some sort of cross bracing to prevent the long sides from bowing out. Do you already have someone building it?
If you really want to eliminate any cross bracing and build it exactly to what you have shown I would no doubt build it with 3/4" or even 1".
PM me with a contact number if you want to discuss it.
Jeff
Sanjay
Premium Member
Jeff:
I have no problems adding cross bracing on the sump. Going to thicker material would increase the cost. So I was hoping to get away with 3/8 by adding the necessary cross bracing.
I am currently planning to build it myself, not yet started.
I'll send you a pm with my number and we can chat.
Thanks,
sanjay.
I have no problems adding cross bracing on the sump. Going to thicker material would increase the cost. So I was hoping to get away with 3/8 by adding the necessary cross bracing.
I am currently planning to build it myself, not yet started.
I'll send you a pm with my number and we can chat.
Thanks,
sanjay.
badbones
Premium Member
Sanjay,
Very impressive and am now thinking of doing my stand for my 450 like that!!! I really like how its all open and gives easy access.
One question please. Ok 2.
How did you secure the plywood to the beams and did you secure the styrofoam to the plywood with any glue or such??
I read the thread and did not see these answered so if they were I am sorry
Thanks
Tony
Very impressive and am now thinking of doing my stand for my 450 like that!!! I really like how its all open and gives easy access.
One question please. Ok 2.
How did you secure the plywood to the beams and did you secure the styrofoam to the plywood with any glue or such??
I read the thread and did not see these answered so if they were I am sorry
Thanks
Tony
Sanjay
Premium Member
The plywood was glued to the steel. However, since I had the stand and wood painted the glue did not work really well. But it held in enough places to prevent the sheet from sliding when we slid the tank across it. We did clamp a 2 X4 at the back of the plywood to prevent any slipping when the tank was being slid.
the styro sheet was glued to the plywood, again to prevent it from sliding when the tank was being put in place. The styro sheet did not move. Just some adhesure tube we picked up at lowes.
In retrospect.. the one thing I should have done different is to place a FRP panel under the plywood facing the tank... this would help further minimize any humidity effects from the from sump etc affecting the plywood.
sanjay.
the styro sheet was glued to the plywood, again to prevent it from sliding when the tank was being put in place. The styro sheet did not move. Just some adhesure tube we picked up at lowes.
In retrospect.. the one thing I should have done different is to place a FRP panel under the plywood facing the tank... this would help further minimize any humidity effects from the from sump etc affecting the plywood.
sanjay.
Sanjay
Premium Member
Just in case you guys are wondering if I am sitting around without any progress.. here is an update.
The wood panels for facing the tank are almost done. Just finished with the last coat of polyurathane. There is some warping on the large peices.. but these panels will get nailed and glued so it wont be an issue.
Also, started filling up that tank... as you can see the water has reached my bulkheads and I am waiting for the ball valves and other plumbing to arrive before I can proceed further.
sanjay.
The wood panels for facing the tank are almost done. Just finished with the last coat of polyurathane. There is some warping on the large peices.. but these panels will get nailed and glued so it wont be an issue.
Also, started filling up that tank... as you can see the water has reached my bulkheads and I am waiting for the ball valves and other plumbing to arrive before I can proceed further.
sanjay.
- Status
Similar threads
