55 Reef on a Budget

[lcause]

I might just have to. I'm on a budget so there is no need to waste money on something like this.

Whats the rule of thumb on hole placement? (How far down is enough/too far?)

 

[adnup]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7992980#post7992980 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JayP05
Hey adnup, all you did was paint the inside white? That looks amazing, going to steal your design hope you dont mind What tools did you use to hold it all together?

Basically I glued and screwed it! There are 4 lag bolts attaching the top and bottom frame to the legs. You can see them in this pic.

Titebond glue and drywall screws hold it all together.

 

[adnup]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7998275#post7998275 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lcause
I might just have to. I'm on a budget so there is no need to waste money on something like this.

Whats the rule of thumb on hole placement? (How far down is enough/too far?)

Did you buy the tank new or used? If new I'd see if you can change it for a reef ready tank. I think the rule of thumb is atleast 1 hole size away from the edge of the glass. <a href="http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=603816" target="_blank">THIS</a> thread has lots of great info on drilling..

 

[Kap212]

Hey Adnup, how much for the Mag Mounts? and do you accept personnel checks? LOL

Great thread and keep up the good work. Just wish you had started this BEFORE I did my 55.

Greg

 

[Divetime]

Adnup - How has the converted wet/dry worked out for you as a sump? Do you have any revised pictures now that it is up & running?
Any microbubble issues?

The stand looks great. Thanks for the ideas The current stand that I have was pretty much a freebie too but it has a center brace & is a PIA to work around especially when dealing with all the equipment within the sump.

 

[tulkas71]

Heres a tip for non descructively moving that center brace.

Nail in a new one or two where you want.
Use a screwdriver in between the old brace board and pry enough of a gap to get a hacksaw blade in there at cut the nails in half and pull out the old brace.

Not sure of all your particulars, but maybe that will help.

 

[adnup]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8056265#post8056265 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Divetime
Adnup - How has the converted wet/dry worked out for you as a sump? Do you have any revised pictures now that it is up & running?
Any microbubble issues?

The stand looks great. Thanks for the ideas The current stand that I have was pretty much a freebie too but it has a center brace & is a PIA to work around especially when dealing with all the equipment within the sump.

It works great, no bubbles. I'll snap some pics alittle later...

 

[blue02celi]

Adnup this post is GREAT!! I have the same tank and the same problem with the brace. This is my first tank and you're making it very easy to understand how everything comes together. I can't wait for the sump

 

[xDave]

This reminds me of the old days when we made our own stuff because you couldn't buy it yet. The stand looks great. Hard to believe what people pay for those cheap fiber bord and laminate things when good wood cost so little.

 

[blue02celi]

I showed my fiance the stand and told her that's what I want to do, she just laughed and said yeah ok lol

Question about the stand... you said you used 4 lag bolts to bolt the frames. I see them on the inside but not on the outside.. How do they work? Guess that's why my fiance laughed when I showed her

 

[adnup]

Question about the stand... you said you used 4 lag bolts to bolt the frames. I see them on the inside but not on the outside.. How do they work? Guess that's why my fiance laughed when I showed her

Basically a 2x4 is really only 1.5" so I just got 3" lag screws, used a washer and lots of glue.

 

[adnup]

Heres a pic of the sump. Nothing special but it works! Plenty of room for a good size skimmer.

As you can see the Seaclone works but I still want to try my hand at making one. On my drain line I used 2 90 degree elbows for it to dump into the sock. I might change it to 2 45's, I think it will be even more quite then

 

[blue02celi]

Oh, I thought you had bolts in there attaching them to the legs... are screws strong enough?

 

[adnup]

Im sure the lags and glue would be enough but if you notice in this pic I added 2by's between the top and bottom frame for 2 reasons.
1. for more strength
2. so I would have a square corner

 

[blue02celi]

Yeah I was gonna ask when its all painted the legs look thicker...

 

[blue02celi]

one more ?
how tall did you make the tank? I think most come around 30" right? but thats kinda low IMO. I was thinking 40" but then again I dont want it to start getting unstable as it goes higher. 30 seems like Id have to bend over more just to look into the tank, not that Im tall

 

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7251633#post7251633 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tulkas71
Question,
Whats going to keep the 'critters' out of the overflow?

Great thread in the making btw. I have basically the same tank but with all HOB stuff. Definately want to keep tabs on your project if I ever redo mine from scratch!

Theres no need for anything to keep the kritters out. With a long overflow with no teeth, the layer of water over the overflow is so thin that theres no need. Its basically the same as asking "whats keeping the kritters from jumping out of the tank"


I'm running on 2 years of an overflow with no teeth, and have never found a fish in it. The snails come and go as they please.

 

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8053838#post8053838 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by adnup
Basically I glued and screwed it! There are 4 lag bolts attaching the top and bottom frame to the legs. You can see them in this pic.

Titebond glue and drywall screws hold it all together.

Just a note for all you future stand builders:

The above pic is a bad idea. In this design, all of the weight of the tank is being held by the bolts. The next photo he posted, there are 2x4s between the top and bottom frame. Theyre holding almost ALL the weight, and thats a good idea.

You want the top frame to be directly above the support members, not outside it and bolted in place.

 

[meco65]

Now you need to tell everyone to do both the inside with bolts and the out side for up and down support. If you only use the 2x4 in-between the upper and lower frame it will not have much side to side support, so both is needed.

 

[adnup]

</a> by RichConley
Just a note for all you future stand builders:

The above pic is a bad idea. In this design, all of the weight of the tank is being held by the bolts. The next photo he posted, there are 2x4s between the top and bottom frame. Theyre holding almost ALL the weight, and thats a good idea.

You want the top frame to be directly above the support members, not outside it and bolted in place.

That was just a part of the assembly process. I would hope that everyone understands alittle bit about weight distribution. This stand is overkill for a 55, far stronger than really needed.