6 Simple Tips for Keeping Zoanthids Happy, Healthy, and Growing Fast

[that Fish Guy]

Great thread

Thank You

 

[that Fish Guy]

I am starting an all zoas tank what is the best clean up crew to have In This tank
Thankx

Tiger Trochus Snails

 

[SIR PATRICK]

I have Talked To and Read About quite a few People who have been Having Trouble Keeping Zoanthids so I decided to Make this Thread to Help them Out.



Here are My Tips for Happy, Healthy, and Fast Growing Zoanthids.


2.Keep Everything Stable -

For Me
Temperature - 77 Degrees
Salinity - 1.026
Alkalinity - 8.5
Calcium - 480
Magnesium - 1440

- Test, Test, Test (I cannot Stress this Enough).
- I Test and Dose Every Day on 6 Tanks (2 of the Tanks I Test and Dose Twice a Day - Once in the Morning and Once at Night).
- My Alkalinity Does not Drop more than 0.3 a Day.
- Remember Alkalinity is Depleted more than anything Else in a Reef Tank and is the Most Important thing to Keep Stable which is Why I Test So Much.




3. Feed, Feed, Feed -

- Don't Listen to anybody that says you should have Zero Nitrate and Zero Phosphate with Zoanthids.
- They LOVE Food!
- I feed 3 Times a Week.

Tuesday -

1. Reef Roids
2 BRS Reef Chili
3. Seachem AquaVitro Fuel Vitamin and Ammino Acid Supplement

I mix all 3 Together in some Tank Water

Friday -

1. Reef Roids
2 BRS Reef Chili
3. Seachem AquaVitro Fuel Vitamin and Ammino Acid Supplement

I mix all 3 Together in some Tank Water

Sunday -

1. Larry's Reef Frenzy Frozen Food (LRS)

LRS is more for my Acans and Chalices which I Target Feed after Chopping it Up Fine with a Razor Blade but there are Fine Particle Coral Foods in LRS that the Zoanthids can Use.



Hopefully these Tips will Help Some People Out that are Having Issues Keeping Zoanthids

Very nice collaboration of info here, much of it I plan on implementing in my current tank, but-

I have questions on testing and feeding.

What are your test results on PO4 and NO3 and on your tanks?

What equipment or techniques do you use for nutrient export and filtration?

These are the 2 main issues you must find a balance for to maintain good growth as well as superior appearance.

What levels are you maintaining, and what levels of each is too high, or maybe too low to keep appearance, and respectively growth, the best in your system? What are the testable parameters that make the "happy spot" in your tanks? And with your feedings what do you do to maintain that happy spot?

I have never bothered to test so extensively, and would really appreciate being able to read and learn from your findings.

 

[SIR PATRICK]

Here are My Tips for Happy, Healthy, and Fast Growing Zoanthids.

1. Bayer Dip

2.Kee2. Keep Everything Stable
3. Feed, Feed, Feed
4. Higher Light and Higher Flow (Generally Speaking)
5. Keep an Eye Out for POX
6. Do Regular Water Changes
7. Don't Buy Animals that Might Go After Zoanthids





1. Bayer Dip -

- No Coral (And I mean no Coral) goes into my Tank without an Aggressive Bayer Dip for 15 Minutes.
- Then I check for Eggs with a High Powered Magnifying Glass with a Built in LED Light Used by Coin Collectors.
- Bayer Kills the Pests but Does NOT Kill the Eggs.
- Zoanthids are Targeted by More Pests than any Other Coral (Nudibranches, Spiders, Sundial Snails, etc.)

I have heard great results with the Bayer method, but have also heard bad results using this strong insecticide unprotected to humans. Do you use this product bare handed? Ventilated? What safety precautions do you use to perform this dip and which do you not? This information should be shared in the fist post, for any future zoa grower to be aware of in the future. I am just imagining people over the continent following your instructions, without reading the most important ones, on the handling and active ingredients lable on the bayer container, which have little to do with this procedure besides safety.

Just trying to help you get this great write up some info that could be added to make it even better and safer.

 

[that Fish Guy]

Very nice collaboration of info here, much of it I plan on implementing in my current tank, but-

I have questions on testing and feeding.

What are your test results on PO4 and NO3 and on your tanks?

What equipment or techniques do you use for nutrient export and filtration?

These are the 2 main issues you must find a balance for to maintain good growth as well as superior appearance.

What levels are you maintaining, and what levels of each is too high, or maybe too low to keep appearance, and respectively growth, the best in your system? What are the testable parameters that make the "happy spot" in your tanks? And with your feedings what do you do to maintain that happy spot?

I have never bothered to test so extensively, and would really appreciate being able to read and learn from your findings.

Thank You Chris

Nitrate Varies depending on the Tank but is anywhere from 5 to 20

I never Test Phosphate

For Nutrient Export I just do Very Large Water Changes (Over 60 Percent).

No Skimmer
No GFO

Alkalinity - 8.5
Calcium - 480
Magnesium - 1440

I Probably wouldn't want Nitrate To Far Above 20 but I Hear WWC keeps theirs at around 40

Mine never goes past 20 so I don't know what "too high" would be.

They seem to be happiest during feeding.

If I do not feed corals do not seem as "Happy"

 

[that Fish Guy]

I have heard great results with the Bayer method, but have also heard bad results using this strong insecticide unprotected to humans. Do you use this product bare handed? Ventilated? What safety precautions do you use to perform this dip and which do you not? This information should be shared in the fist post, for any future zoa grower to be aware of in the future. I am just imagining people over the continent following your instructions, without reading the most important ones, on the handling and active ingredients lable on the bayer container, which have little to do with this procedure besides safety.

Just trying to help you get this great write up some info that could be added to make it even better and safer.

Thanks Chris

I would use Latex Gloves (Powder Free) when using Bayer.

Try to avoid contact on skin as it is an Insecticide.

 

[SIR PATRICK]

Thank You Chris

Nitrate Varies depending on the Tank but is anywhere from 5 to 20

I never Test Phosphate

For Nutrient Export I just do Very Large Water Changes (Over 60 Percent).

No Skimmer
No GFO

Alkalinity - 8.5
Calcium - 480
Magnesium - 1440

I Probably wouldn't want Nitrate To Far Above 20 but I Hear WWC keeps theirs at around 40

Mine never goes past 20 so I don't know what "too high" would be.

They seem to be happiest during feeding.

If I do not feed corals do not seem as "Happy"

How often on the 60% water changes? Sounds right up my alley.

 

[that Fish Guy]

How often on the 60% water changes? Sounds right up my alley.

Used to do it Weekly LOL.

It really Varies Now.

Try to Once Every Two Weeks but sometimes it is every 3 to 4 Weeks.

 

[petemichelle]

i have fought nudi's, i have fought pox. what is it when the zoa closes up and starts to turn brown? there are no signs of pox on it. I've dipped in iodine, revive, furan 2, and chemi clean. nothing seems to help. they just stay brown, and browner, and browner and start to fade away. i've looked and posed on forums bur no response....

any help would be appreciated.

 

[that Fish Guy]

i have fought nudi's, i have fought pox. what is it when the zoa closes up and starts to turn brown? there are no signs of pox on it. I've dipped in iodine, revive, furan 2, and chemi clean. nothing seems to help. they just stay brown, and browner, and browner and start to fade away. i've looked and posed on forums bur no response....

any help would be appreciated.

Not sure.

Do You have a Picture?