6060 Timer/RioStat/Commercial product

StoneRhino

New member
Hello,

I bought a 6060 about two months ago and have placed it at the bottom of a BB at the back faceing across the tank width wise. The live rock is on a elaborate pvc frame. The tunze is under the frame keeping the underside of this rock wall clean.

I have had it on a WaveMaster Pro along with the other powerheads. I have read here that that is BAD. It must stay on for an hour before shuting off.

I want to maybe run it constant or find a commerical product that varies 120v and change the pumps out put periodically but not shut it off.

Or if there is no such product then can I put a Rio stat on it to decrease its output some. As it is a little to much power to run it constantly.
 
Voltage adjustment will not change pump performance. The pump will start spinning at about 95V and do nothing below that voltage, it will have no effect and speed and could ruin the pump. These pumps are synchronous- meaning like all other submersible powerheads their speed is controlled by the Hertz of the mains supply. A 60 Hz pump spins at 3600rpm- 60 cycles per second times 60 seconds, this cycles or alternations from positive to negative charge of AC current make the electromagnetic coil change from a positive to negative charge which makes the permanent magnet rotor spin. The only possibility is a Hz modulator which is extremely expensive and makes the pumps run hotter, even eventually burning them out. That is why we make the electronic pumps, it is cheaper to control speed with this method than any other way. It is very complicated though because two coils and an electronic control system are required, that is why they are expensive and only two companies make such a pump.

Yes, the wavemaster woids the warranty and eventually will ruin the pump. The only option is a simple timer.
 
I will caution you that the Streams need to be cleaned every 3-6 months and positioning them under the rock where they are not easily accessed could also destroy the pump in time, they cannot be ignored or they will lock up and fail.
 
Thank you

Thank you

Thank you so much for your answer. I will put it on a timer of two hour on and 1 hour off.

Also thank you for the warning as I read the manual an knew that it needed cleaning often. I have a big rock that has no coral on it that is in front of the 6060 and frame. There is a pvc frame holder that holds the pump perfectly as I made the frame with the pump as a part of it. The pump slides out of its holder and comes right out of the aquarium with ease after the rock is moved.

The only sucky part is the cord is exposed in front of the higher rocks as the pump does need to come out easy for cleaning, no way around that I guess..

Is it ok that I use the 30% HCL acid to clean the pump?
 
Don't use muriatic acid, only vinegar. Plastic isn't as inert as people think, and what happens in a strong acid (one which is strongly electronegative and with a pH below 4) is that the plastic forms H+ bonds and gains mass up to 15% and this reduces the tolerances in the pump so they get dirtier sooner because the cooling and cleaning system don't function properly. You can use vinegar, muriatic acid diluted 1 -20 parts RO water, or phosphoric acid diluted 1- 10 parts RO water. I use vinegar, at the factory we use an ultrasonic cleaner with a special solution of RO water with a pH reduced to 5 with a small quantity of phosphoric acid and we add a detergent. I use to use such a method but my ultrasonic cleaner fried out and I just haven't replaced it because I have found on most parts vinegar and a dishwasher get most things spotless. I just use vinegar and a brush (best brushes are the sets used to clean handguns or the sets they sell at paint stores for cleaning paint sprayers, for about $10 you get a big jar of different little brushes that really work well) this is what I do for the pumps. For the skimmers, intake screens, anything without a plug on it I first soak in vinegar and then throw in the dishwasher, I would be careful if your dishwasher doesn't have a good temperature regulation, some of them melt plastics in the lower trays, they get too hot.

The cord eventually gets covered in coralline, if you want to make a neater display use the suction cups they sell for airline to restrain it againt the tank wall, after some coralline grows it isn't too noticable.
 
Thank you soo much

Thank you soo much

I had no idea that acids below 5 affect the plastics in a negative way. I will use viniger and a little elbow grease from now on.

I added some pics for you. In case you get interested as to how some people use the products. I am sure you have seen it all though.

40365RightSide.JPG

40365Pump.JPG
 
rvitko said:
That is why we make the electronic pumps, it is cheaper to control speed with this method than any other way. It is very complicated though because two coils and an electronic control system are required, that is why they are expensive and only two companies make such a pump.

I don't understand what you mean by "that is why we make the electric pumps..." Can you explain? Also, I didn't even know there was another company that made an adjustable speed powerhead like yours. Who makes them?

Thanks!
 
AquaBee makes a similar pump but it is more crude, the controls are integrated on the driver and the pumps cannot be coordinated. They cost about the same, it is essentially like getting a single controller free because it is built in to the driver. They also have smaller outlets so they are a higher pressure pump which is a disadvantage.

Electronic pumps have onboard electronics, their is a circuit board in line that controls the pump speed, they usually run on low voltage and have a special motor construction.
 
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