6080 stopping

[Flatlander]

Rodger,
Twice now I have found one of my 6080 stream pumps not running. After cleaning, again, its runs fine. I clean on a regular basis and there seems to be nothing in there to clean. I have seen this on other posts, but thought it only affected models with the brake. Guess not.

Is it just the clearance specs on a 6080 also, or something else? This time its not even two weeks after the last cleaning.

When I find them they are already off. As I work on the tank everyday, it could be no more. Does that not hurt the pump, being stalled out like that?

I dont know if its the same pump or not, as I dont remember which side they go on after cleaning. I will watch now.

 

[rvitko]

All Tunze pumps use the same drive unit. The problem 90% of the time is that part 3f is cemented by lime to part 3g- see page 48 of the manual. The brake shoes are the cause 5% of the time, they should smoothly ratchet in and out if you grab the magnet in one hand and the prop in the other and move the magnet back and forth 180 degrees. The other 5% of the time the magnet is cracked. Cleaning with an acid stronger than pH of 5 will cause the plastic bushings to swell and also may cause problems. Yes, frequent switching is destructive to the pump, inside is a thermostatic circuit braker, this unit can switch the pump off when it fails about 10,000 times. If it is called upon too often, say on a vacation of a couple weeks, the motor block is irreperaibly ruined. Such problems are rare when proper calcium and KH are maintained. The usual cause is a KH over 12 and a Calcium over 400- which is nonsense. A coral reef functions at 8 and 380. I would strive for 10 and 450 or 12 and 400. Usually the lime formation is caused by precipitation due to excessive additions. The pump is internally the coolest running pump on the world market and is very resistant to forming deposits, due to the tight tolerances however, deposits that form have a stopping effect.

 

[Flatlander]

Rodger,
My calcium is around 360ppm , but my alk is closer to 12dkh, which is where my co2 reactor keeps it. Never nothing in any other pump bearings , including years old, 800 powerheads. Besides the usual of course, which I assume $250 pumps can handle with some tolerance.

So is Tunze saying if cacium levels are over 400ppm and alkalinity around 12dkh, which is what most co2 reactor sps tanks run at, that the streams need extra attention? More than in the manual. I am a big backer of the Tunze pumps, suggesting them on many threads on many boards. I would think I have sold a few for Tunze. I would like to have my facts straight about suggestions from Tunze when passing on info, that others use in their decisions.

I have cleaned so far, only with warm water and a fine brush.

By switching, do you mean when the rotor binds and the pump shuts down? Does the circuit breaker then shut off the pump? That my main worry, is burning out a unit.

Reading over the parts again. The rotor and bearing usually look pretty good to me, but will check them again. Thanks

 

[rvitko]

To get the energy efficiency an extremely tight tolerance is necessary, beyond any other pump brand. We have thermal scans showing only a 0.5 C temp increase inside the pump, no one else can claim this, most pumps average 2C. If a calcium reactor is used properly you dial in to achieve constant normal levels not extreme levels. The majority of problems happen with haphazard additions without measuring. I appreciate the support but all I can say is no one in the US has more Tunze pumps in operation than I do- 19 and counting- and I get one year service and never have stopages or problems. Your levels sound very good. Just make sure that no parts are bound together. Every piece should come apart as illustrated on page 48. They should all move smoothly together. The hagen pump you mention uses the uses twice the power to pump 1/5th the water so it is not a fair comparison, the tolerances can be completely ignored and achieve this. The pump is very well built but no matter how well built something is it still needs service and yes, it could have a small defect. If you would walk through the entire dissassembly and tell me if you see something wrong I will take care of it, but it is a very small percentage of people who have problems- most of them have calcium levels that are excessive and lead to precepitation.

The pump has a thermastitic circuit braker, when the internal temperature passes 100C the pump shuts off until the temperature drops and then it tries again. It can do this about 10000 times (this is only a rated average, it may take 1million but the manufacturer only guarantees 10000) and then it is broken. It really takes some abuse to get their. About the only time this can happen is unattended brake down for a long vacation. I promise that if you make sure every part is absolutely clean and not broken (don't overlook hairline magnet cracks and obstructions to the center cooling port in the magnet) and don't overdo the calcium and buffer the pumps should last a dozen years or more. The electronic pumps have a different system where the resistance switches the power to operate an alarm and no power goes to the pump. This system is almost indestructible.

 

[Flatlander]

Thanks Rodger,

I will have a close look. If it was the same pump, I suppose its possible that one has a small defect. After checking it close, if thats the one to shut down again, we have a good idea.

I understand about the closer tolerance levels. I just used the Hagen as an example of longevity in my tanks, with my ca/alk levels. I no longer use them, since purchasing the Tunze pumps as they provide all the current in my tank, {besides the scrubber dump}.

 

[rvitko]

I promise, we build good pumps and we do our best to be fair. I personally built 10 Stream pumps and the lady who builds them supervised. She made me take them apart as many as three times until she was satisfied it was perfect and made no noise. They are test run twice and have to pass an Oscilliscope as well. The attention to detail is meticulous. I view it similar to owning a Porsche or Mercedes, they are beautiful precise machines but they have demands beyond others. In the case of these cars you use 5w 50 Mobil One (Enormous quantities 10-15L) and 91 Octane plus- otherwise you destroy the engine, such is the price of precision. It takes 3 months for a drive unit to completely wear in. In 2 weeks 90% of the wear in is complete. The plastics inside the pump are a proprietary blend that include teflon. I would try cleaning with 50% white vinegar and 50% warm water. Never use strong acids, they destroy the nylon brake shoes- the newest models have teflon brake shoes, in addition they cause the plastic to take on mass of up to 5% water and distort the material, this can be corrected but only in a shop with the proper tools, I am the only one in North America with this equipment. If you fin abnormal lime build up, watch KH and Calcium, if the levels are within 450 and 12 you may have an ionic imabalance, I can't reallyexplain this and admittedly Randal Holmes Farly and Habib seemed to strongly diagree, but my prctical experience is that a large water change will fix the problem. The problem within normal parameters of Calcium and KH seems to be brought on by overdosing of trace elements or long term use of two part additives. Calcium precipitation inside technical equipment occurs because temp and vaccuum cause Co2 to degas and pH to rise- the same effect corals use to grow. We focus on reducing heat to help prevent this but acknowledge that our design probably has a higher internal vaccuum than most. It is possible though to attain long service lives from these pumps though and I work for Tunze because I believe in the product, it is really that simple.